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I have a '95 F250 w/ the 460 and the E4OD. I'm wanting to replace the stock troque convertor with an aftermarket one that will transfer more power to the rear wheels. I also am thinking about chipping it. Is it worth it and if so which chip manufactureer is best for the 460? Any other mod suggestions are welcome, the only mod currently on it is a K&N filter. Thanks
I've a 95 F250 Supercab 460 as well... I have the ZF tranny tho. I installed a Banks Power Pack for a remarkable difference. There are a few threads on this site concerning the Banks products, including their Trans-command. There are some if you go back a ways in this conference, as well there may be some under the "exhaust" conference, and possibly the "series 385" conference.
I was inquiring about chips as well, there is lots of info in the "computer chips" conference on this site. I think the recommendation would have been "Superchip", tho, I haven't gone with a chip yet as it was not recommended with the propane system on my truck. The current price of propane prohibits running it, so I may remove the system, and look for a chip.
When you say you want a torque converter that gets more power to the rear wheels, I am assuming you mean a stall converter. Just keep in mind that the more stall speed a converter has, the more tranny trashing heat is produced. Just don't get too radical here.
DannyP
89 F-150 4x4 former EFI I-6 now carbed 351W, Edelbrock heads,cam,intake,carb.
MSD 6A, ZF, Sterling 10.25 with 3.55L's.
Dannyp is right...you wouldn't want much more converter slip...at least without changing cams. "Looser" converters let you get more up in to the RPM range but you have to remember that torque is what gets you moving and the Big Fords make torque at a fairly low RPM. That converter will not help you at all when you hit the next big hill towing a 6,000 lb. trailer, etc. Ford engines have always been weak on the exhaust side, get a "Banks" kit or make your own with headers anad dual exhaust. If you buy a chip you WILL have to run premium fuel and this site has access to one of the best chips out there..."Superchips".
Might want to check out TCI or B&M for the convertor, they both make "low" stall towing convertors which are more efficient at cruise rpm's. Higher stall is OK if you have extra power a little farther up in the rpm range and can take advantage of the higher stall speed, but this usually comes with more slipage and heat build up at cruise rpm's. I run a 2000 rpm stall, but have 35" tires with 4.10's, 5000+ lbs. sled, 460 which has quite a few mods and a cam that really comes on at 1500+ rpm's. Trans temps will be elevated when the going gets slow-run the largest cooler I could find with a t-stat to keep this under control. The higher stall's also take away any kind of compression braking, especially at low rpm's.
Well I added a Banks TransCommand to the E4OD. This seems to have solved the slippage problem with the stock torque converter. I am looking at possibly adding their TorqueTubes headers to add some low end torque. Any other suggestions to add power?
Could install an ingnition system. One from jacobs or MSD would be my choices. You could squeze out a little more power with underdrive pulleys if they make them for your eninge. I'm not sure...
webguyrich: A Banks rep recommended I put the Trans Command on my Ford 460 motorhome. He told me under moderate throttle it will shift much the same as it does now, but under heavy throttle it boosts line pressure from about 20 or so to around 50 psi and produces positive shifts that reduce clutch wear and heat. Sounds like a good idea based on your experience. How difficult is it to hook up? I have to deal with this engine being wedged into an E350 van chassis though.
The B&M Trans kit for the E4OD works great and only costs $50.00 It will take the better part of a day (considering your not an expert) possibly less. You have to drop the trans pan and change some springs as well as drill out a hole (bit included in the kit) to a larger size. And there is a little electronic resistor or something that you need to put into the wires at the connector. I liked the kit a lot in my truck. I made a difference. Because of a shipping/ordering mix-up I own an extra kit if you want to buy it from me (brand new in the box not touched) I'll let it go for $40.00 and shipping. My email address is meshaffer at mindspring.com contact me if you are interested.
Now for the rest of the story... After I drove with the B&M for several months I had my motor (and trans) out for another reason and I decided to go after it.... I replaced all of the light duty E4OD plastic parts with the heavy duty metal parts from a diesel (same trans different guts for the extra torque). At this point a had a trans shop custom build me a valve body (designed for my application and driving habits). I added an aluminum deep well finned trans pan which an holds extra 6 quarts of fluid. I also added an additional external fluid cooler with a bypass thermostat and an external filter, this trans now runs very cool (heat is what kills a transmission!). Now the news is I have a couple thousand dollars into this transmission and while it is basically bullet proof... I cannot feel any performance difference between what I have now and the trans after I added the B&M shift kit. Go figure! Let me know if you want to buy my extra kit. It is just collecting dust in my shed.
>webguyrich: A Banks rep recommended
>I put the Trans Command
>on my Ford 460 motorhome.
> He told me under
>moderate throttle it will shift
>much the same as it
>does now, but under heavy
>throttle it boosts line pressure
>from about 20 or so
>to around 50 psi and
>produces positive shifts that reduce
>clutch wear and heat.
>Sounds like a good idea
>based on your experience.
>How difficult is it to
>hook up? I have
>to deal with this engine
>being wedged into an E350
>van chassis though.
TallPaul,
The TransCommand was a piece of cake to install. The first thing you do is mount the module on the outside of the frame rail, away from any exhaust tubes. After you have it mounted, you unplug the wiring harness going into the tranny. You move three wires from that plug into a new harness which goes into the TransVommand module. Then there are three new wires coming out of the TransCommand module which take the place of the three you took out of the factory wiring harness. Basically all your doing is redirecting three wires through the module before they enter the tranny. I believe it took me about 20 minutes to install the module with very few tools, none specialty.
Thanks, The Banks looks good given the ease of istallation. I won't attempt installing the B&M kit so I'd have to pay labor. Probably still come out cheaper, but I wonder if the B&M more suited to a hot rod/muscle car application than an RV. I know the Banks is made specifically for an RV and would wonder if the B&M might give somewhat more lurch in the shift. Anyway, I am going to check out what FTE sells and there was one company that I called re my wifes Aerostar and they had a tranny kit for that (A4OD I think) that hooked to the vacuum line and had a selector for the dash to switch between normal, towing, and racing or something like that. Anyway, I am leaning towards the Banks now, but would like to find one as easy to install but lower cost. I think the Banks is around $275 or so.
I had the Banks transcommand installed two weeks ago and can really tell a difference.
I actaully had my ford garage install it, as they charged me 30.00 less for the unit, if they could charge me a hours labor. Anyway, it made sense to me to have them do it. But they did give the manual and the installation looks very easy.
As far as shifting, in normal driving, i can really tell the 1-2 shift has changed, all others are a little less noticable.
But if you put your foot into it, all the gears really jump into place. Even the wife noticed afterwards. Towing is when i can really tell. The shifts are very firm and positve. you are either in one gear or another, not causaully moving to the next gear.
For me the trans command seems to be worth it, and is definately a noticable change for the good. However it has go me thinking of an entire Banks Power Pack, which doesnt sit well with the wife at 1600.00!
Check out this site: http://www.motorhomepower.com/index.html It is a book on motorhome power enhancements. Testing was done primarily on the Ford 460 (see authors preface on web site). Web site shows power curve data for stock and with various power adders (intake, exhaust, headers, charger, etc). I bet you could do only a partial exhaust system, say cat and back, and get a significant improvement.