Hey thank y'all for the comments and suggestions. What I had in mind was forming a block off from galvanized sheet metal and sliding it in between the EGR cooler and the EGR end of the pipe from exhaust manifold, I think that would prevent the EGR cooler from filling up with soot. It would do so without having to deal with the two problem bolts, Cangim makes a very good point though that when/if it was time to revert to stock the pipe would likely be filled with soot. If I understand the setup right the tune has turned off the EGR function and there is no need to do anything. But if it's not removed or at least blocked off there will still be soot getting in to the EGR and eventually clogging it, So, it would have to be cleaned prior to reverting to stock.

I would like to have access to the EGT and bought a sensor for my Edge CTS. The easy way would be to get the two manifold bolts out but they make me very nervous, I do not want to have to deal with one snapping, This is the first I heard about a probe with the X4, I will check on that but if I read this correctly the probe goes the same place the one I have for the Edge does. Again thanks for the responses

 

As tradosaurs stated, everyday for a week, when parking it HOT, spray with PB Blaster. They will back out wet with lubricant, with little to no resistance. Saw it done on a 6.7 with 150+K on it.

 

I intend to do just that when i get home. Just in case i fashioned a block off plate for the top of the exhaust manifold to EGR pipe. Made it from about 1/32 inch thick hard sheet metal. I loosened the two bolts on that end and i was anle to get sufficient space to insert the block off. I did not do it yet but it seemed easy enough to do and if i hit resistance with the problem bolts that is what i’ll do. I have researched it thoroughly and there are lots of write ups and videos on the subject. The best looking repair is to drill and extract but there are several cades where that didn’t work. Second best is a kit that sends everything needed except the drill to insert a threaded sleve for a new bolt. Five hundred bucks or so. I’ll let y’all know which I do.

 

Just to close this out, I was unable to remove the two problem bolts. I've been PB blasting on and off for a couple weeks and this week five days in a row. So today I took a whack at it. Tried a six point socket 1/4 drive and couldn't budge it. Tried a six point 3/8 drive with a 14 inch ratchet neither bolt would budge with the amount of pressure I was willing to exert. They are both pretty frozen. So, I went the other way and inserted my sheet metal block between the other end of the cross over pipe and the EGR. Tightened everything up and did a test drive. There was no sign of any leak or soot where I inserted the block off. So, there will be no soot entering the EGR but I have no EGT source. I'm thinking I'll get the exhaust shop to weld me a bung on the down pipe and use the EGR sensor that works with my Edge, but I'm open for suggestions.

 

I think I used a 1/2" drive socket with 1/2" extensions to get the two problem bolts out. There was some resistance at first and until it came loose. I was sweating it until then not knowing if I would break the head of the bolts off. I also think I did with the engine warm because I think the steel bolts being used are harder than the EGR mating material?

 

How the heck did you get 1/2 inch on them. I barely got 3/8 in there on long extension.

 

Maybe it was a 1/2" drive with 1/2"-3/8" adapter and 3/8" extensions. Either way I was sweating it.

 

UPDATE. As of now I have inserted a thin piece of sheet metal between the end of the long tube and the EGR cooler. My first try was a piece of heavy sheet metal but after a long test drive I found traces of soot around the edge so I replaced that sheet metal piece with very thin sheet metal about the same thickness at the gasket.. I sealed it with a light coat of RED high temp RTV, Took a long test drive this PM and no sign of soot. So, I believe my EGR cooler is now protected from soot. I went by the local Diesel shop today. Guy is very experienced and was quite aware of the issue with the two subject bolts. Said he would give it a try but could not promise they would not break. Part i didn't like was if they break next step is replace manifold. A 100 dollar part but 7 or 8 hours of labor. So we are talking 800 bucks or more. I'm thinking about it.

There are a lot of articles and videos on these broken bolts. Lots of ideas but in the end they are likely to break and the fixes are a lot of work. I think the best fix is a kit that has a bunch of jigs that make the drill out easy. It uses bits increasing in size up to what looks like about a half inch. Once the hole is drilled out there is a tap that prepares the hole for the included insert to be threaded into the hole and secured by a couple keys pounded into the side of the hole. The result was very neat and looked strong. I looked the kit up and it was 598 dollars. Kind of pricey for a one and done but would pay for itself in a hurry for a shop.

I'm fine with my block off but I need to find a way to monitor the EGT. I have the probe and an Edge Insight but I can't find a place to tap the manifold. Anyway, still working on it.

This was my first try but was a little too thick OI think,
What I have now. So far so good, You can see how thin the sheet metal is, I;m wondering if it will hold up the the exhaust heat. Hoping that since it is at the end of the tube it won't fail due to heat. I'll check it after my next trip and see how it's doing.

 

That sure is a good idea, I hope it works out for you.

I wonder how well the RTV will hold up to the exhaust temps over time? Red RTV has a heat range of -65 to 650F I have no idea how hot that area will get but I know pulling a trailer my EGT sensors hit 700 no problem.

 

Dont know. Just figured I would give it a try. The RTV was a last minute thought. I put on very little. Im also wondering how that very thin sheet metal will hold up. The block off is well out of the exhaust stream so it shouldn’t get anywhere near 1100 or so that I get towing and regenning. The real solution is for me to man up and tackle the two bolts at the other end of that tube. Lol.

 

Idk,I just dont think thats the long term solution. I would just bring it to a diesel shop that does deletes and have them remove them . Shops that do these all the time know all the tricks and usually dont break them. I just think if it were as easy as putting a piece of sheet metal in between it wouldve been done a million times. But I wish you all the best and hope it works out. I wonder how its going to hold up pulling heavy loads. Temps skyrocket towing vs everyday driving.

 

I'll report back and let y'all know how this ends up. I also worry about the sheet metal holding up. But it's at the end away from the exhaust stream so maybe. If it doesn't it is no big deal. EGR is shut off so doing nothing would have been OK. I mean all I'm trying to do is keep soot from accumlation in the EGR, I'm a life long hands on do it myself guy. Nothing against the pros, I just enjoy doing stuff to vehicles. Worked in a parts yard from 14 to 18, loved it. I did talk to one diesel shop. He said he would try to get them off but if one snaps he would go straight to a new exhaust manifold. I may still have him do it. Many options before replacing manifold though, thats about 8 hours of labor, probably close to $1000. Ouch!!!

 

UPDATE I went back at the bolts over the week end. Actually got the one nearest the block out. 3/8 drive socket/ 3/8 universial/ 3/8 extension/ adapter to 1/2 inch rachet. About two weeks of PB Blaster and got it as hot as I could by driving. I'm an old man and not strong and it took all I could do to break that sucker loose. Once loose, I worked it out over about an hour. As I was turning it out when I hit strong resistance I turned it back in a couple turns, sprayed a lot of PB and took a walk to let it cool. I watched a bunch of you tubes on these bolts and I noticed that the guys who kept going in and out and in and out almost always broke them. So, I went in just a bit and took 15 minutes or so to let it cool. Did that several times.

The second bolt still will not break loose. I've not seen any videos where the head just broke but it is still in my mind but I am trying pretty hard to break them loose. I will report that getting the truck hot is the right thing to do. I was putting the first bolt back in so I could drive the truck while I try to figure out my next move. The engine was cool by then and I was having a tough time getting it in at all even with a generous dose of anti sieze on it. So I just went ahead and drove the truck to get it hot. Once hot, the bolt went back in with a lot less resistence.

Not sure what my next move will be. I have plenty of time and I'm in no hurry. The second bolt is getting pretty gnarley from my many attempts at loosening it but I have a set of mangled bolt sockets that should work on it. I guess if I try again ill use a half inch power bar. Sure would hate to rip the head off that sucker. Another option would be to find a spot to weld on a temperture sensor bung. I can't see any place on the exhaust manifold even if I could cut a hole in the heat shield. Maybe the down pipe but I don't know how good those readings would be, long ways from exhaust manifold. Or, I could always go get some professional help.

Hope this helps someone and I am open for suggestions.

 

I like your solution for block offs, thanks for testing it out, I wonder if using copper or brass would be a better idea than the thin steel, not only do they disperse heat better, but they are also commonly used as a gasket material, so win win. The melting point of
aluminum 1200f with some alloys being as low as 800f
brass 1700-1800f
copper 1980f
and stainless and carbon steel is about 2600-2800f
arent most of the kits that are/were sold made from alum?

 

Funny this came up today. As far as I know the sheet metal is holding. My plan is to check it after ten thousand or so and after I've towed with it. As someone above said towing generates a lor more heat. I have now FUBARED (ask a vet if you don't know what that is) the second bolt. It has very little definition left and my mangled bolt socket won't hold it any more. I am still thinking about my next move. I ordered a different type mangled bolt remover last night so I'm just PB blasting and waiting for UPS. If anyone has any idea how much different the EGT in the down pipe would be from the EGT in the manifold I would love to hear it. Easy way for me to go would be a bung in the down pipe. I will report back on how well my sheet metal block works but it will be a while.