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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 12:31 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Black Ford XLT
the part Motorcraft #YH380 ,that I need .I found that part on eBay ,but the connector that slides in to this part is also burned.perhaps I may find the connector at one of these bone yards.
Is the eBay part new or used? I wouldn't gamble on used if new is available. I picked up a new genuine Motorcraft YH380 from Amazon:

Amazon Amazon




For the connector, don't worry if you can't find a serviceable replacement. The connector's plastic body is just a convenient way to keep the four sockets together. On several older vehicles, with damaged unobtainable connectors, I've ditched the plastic piece entirely and just plugged in the individual sockets. Worked like a charm, just a little more work to keep track of what goes where.

If any of the sockets are damaged, replace them as needed. They are common items, and should be easy to source. Just don't panic if you can't find a complete replacement connector.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 05:24 AM
  #32  
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From: Swansea SC
KR , the part is brand new,I did try a female#12 connector and do know I can make individual connections.
The bending twisting to reinstall the piece I would feel better having A new/ used connector. (Only on stab is burned)
my luck ,if I make individual connections .a month from now I will be disassembling it again . These 4 wires are #10 .and stiff .Thanks TR
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 06:02 AM
  #33  
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https://www.motorcraft.com/content/d...-Book-2016.pdf

Any one needing connectors in the future ,or identifying them TR
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 07:37 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Black Ford XLT
https://www.motorcraft.com/content/d...-Book-2016.pdf

Any one needing connectors in the future ,or identifying them TR
That is only half the battle finding the part number and the years used if listed.
Now the fun begins finding the pig tail.

The PO cut the HVAC pig tail off the harness I think because they could not unplug it and I needed to find it.
I also found the link you listed and the pigtail but had a hard time finding it. A member on here was able to get one from a junk yard for me, I have yet to see if it works still rebuildimg truck.
Dave ----
 

Last edited by FuzzFace2; Jul 21, 2019 at 01:31 PM. Reason: To change it to HVAC pigtail
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 08:50 AM
  #35  
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Dave, I feel your pain , mine is listed in the 4 cavity - one of the two red connectors. I thought I ALWAYS get the hard to solve or find problems with my rides Good luck TR
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 09:14 AM
  #36  
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There seems to be more changes between my 80 and your unit than I was expecting. My info wasn’t quite as applicable.

I was really surprised you have a switch-operated blend door. I guess you can’t judge a book by its cover, considering the units look very similar.

Good luck getting it resolved.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 10:21 AM
  #37  
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WPT-344 (Tin)

3U2Z-14S411-AVA

there is one listed on ebay 36-48 dollars huh???? for a connector ??????? WOW DONT know if its the right connectior was just copy and pasting to check how available these connector are>!!!!! TR
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 01:45 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Black Ford XLT
WPT-344 (Tin)

3U2Z-14S411-AVA

there is one listed on ebay 36-48 dollars huh???? for a connector ??????? WOW DONT know if its the right connectior was just copy and pasting to check how available these connector are>!!!!! TR
I made a change to my other post as it was the HVAC pigtail that was cut.

Yea I seen the same 2 pigtails and wondered why 2 and what was different between them?
I cant remember if I found some place that might of had them or could maybe get them as it has been a long time since I messed with that part of the truck.
As said a member picked up the whole control panel w/duel tanks with pigtail as I was missing it.
As a backup I had the control, less the duel tanks and pigtail and why I was looking for the pigtail.
Good luck on your hunt
Dave ----
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 02:02 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by packagerjr
There seems to be more changes between my 80 and your unit than I was expecting. My info wasn’t quite as applicable.

I was really surprised you have a switch-operated blend door. I guess you can’t judge a book by its cover, considering the units look very similar.

Good luck getting it resolved.
On factory AC trucks the blend door uses vacuum to operate.

When looking at the control from the top the switch on the right is the blower switch.
The 1 control with the switch on the left is for duel tanks.
That long black thing with nubs off the left side is a vacuum & electrical switch for AC and it operates from the top lever.
The nubs is where the vacuum manifold (bunch of vacuum lines) plugs in, there should be studs that nuts go on to hold the manifold in place that break off when you try to undo the nuts.
On the end of that long black switch (bottom of picture) is where the electrical plug for the AC part plugs in that is the pigtail he needs.

The other bottom lever you see on the right control is for the hot or cold temp and that has a cable that goes to it. The other control also has it but cant see it.
Dave ----
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 03:36 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2

On factory AC trucks the blend door uses vacuum to operate.


bottom lever you see on the right control is for the hot or cold temp and that has a cable that goes to it.
For "blend door", are you talking about the "outside/recirculate" door? For the OP's 1985:

A/C Heater - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible)


The conversation gets a little confusing because the only "blend" door in that diagram is the cable-operated temperature blend door.

Not sure about other years, but that's how my 1984 is, too.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 04:18 PM
  #41  
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I thought OP was referring to a vacuum operated temperature control door. I was just surprised that the unit’s operation would have been that different from my cable-operated door.

If the subject door is the inside/outside door, well no problem, as mine is also vacuum operated.

Lots of good info has been passed around in this thread.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2019 | 04:45 PM
  #42  
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Burned connector red in color

Plugs into vacuum assembly controls

Back side
 
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Old Jul 22, 2019 | 04:56 PM
  #43  
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From: Swansea SC
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F273909903696. I hope one like this is correct,ordered today for 19.00 TR
 
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Old Jul 27, 2019 | 08:15 PM
  #44  
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Ok Thanks for all the help on this odd problem, today I received my connector and its an exact fit .Installed the Motorcraft YH380 AC valve- and spliced in my connector and Max Ac is working again .Pita to put the controls back in but am very lucky to find that connector .Going to make a trip in the future to two of the yards Franklin posted for future parts !
 
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Old Oct 23, 2021 | 12:38 AM
  #45  
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Hey guys first post and resurrecting this topic! Found a lot of helpful info in this one.

I am fixing the no heater issue on my 86 f350 it is a 6.9 idi, c6 auto and has factory air (bypassed with v belt to it removed by prev owner compressor is probably a goner), took the hvac controls out and found a pretty toasted damper door/blender switch part #yh380 and also the connector is burned up some to. Symptoms were awhile ago the heater would only work if you fussed around with the selector switch and got it in just the right couple places than finally it died all together.

I have ordered a new YH380, sadly the connector WPT344 seems to be complete unobtanium so far as I can tell now from my searching , I have ordered a WPT448 as it looks identical in the provided literature and picture but perhaps the wires are smaller gauge? Anyways I will see if I can rig up that connector to work somehow or may just end up individually connecting pigtails as some awesome person mentioned above!

The only couple questions I had from reading this thread were

1. Just to confirm only 1 of the levers on the back of my controls should have a cable to it since it is an AC truck, mine was on the upper arm (the cool/warm lever)
2. I am wondering if my vacuum lines are all present and correct, in the attached photos the cluster of 5 are all there, the 2 next to them only 1 has a nipple on the block and that one has a clear plug in it (cannot blow air through it), lastly the top 2 horizontal ones had no vacuum lines present and are not plugged



 
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