AC MAX
For the connector, don't worry if you can't find a serviceable replacement. The connector's plastic body is just a convenient way to keep the four sockets together. On several older vehicles, with damaged unobtainable connectors, I've ditched the plastic piece entirely and just plugged in the individual sockets. Worked like a charm, just a little more work to keep track of what goes where.
If any of the sockets are damaged, replace them as needed. They are common items, and should be easy to source. Just don't panic if you can't find a complete replacement connector.
The bending twisting to reinstall the piece I would feel better having A new/ used connector. (Only on stab is burned)
my luck ,if I make individual connections .a month from now I will be disassembling it again . These 4 wires are #10 .and stiff .Thanks TR
Any one needing connectors in the future ,or identifying them TR
Any one needing connectors in the future ,or identifying them TR
Now the fun begins finding the pig tail.
The PO cut the HVAC pig tail off the harness I think because they could not unplug it and I needed to find it.
I also found the link you listed and the pigtail but had a hard time finding it. A member on here was able to get one from a junk yard for me, I have yet to see if it works still rebuildimg truck.
Dave ----
Last edited by FuzzFace2; Jul 21, 2019 at 01:31 PM. Reason: To change it to HVAC pigtail
I was really surprised you have a switch-operated blend door. I guess you can’t judge a book by its cover, considering the units look very similar.
Good luck getting it resolved.
3U2Z-14S411-AVA
there is one listed on ebay 36-48 dollars huh???? for a connector ??????? WOW DONT know if its the right connectior was just copy and pasting to check how available these connector are>!!!!! TR
Yea I seen the same 2 pigtails and wondered why 2 and what was different between them?
I cant remember if I found some place that might of had them or could maybe get them as it has been a long time since I messed with that part of the truck.
As said a member picked up the whole control panel w/duel tanks with pigtail as I was missing it.
As a backup I had the control, less the duel tanks and pigtail and why I was looking for the pigtail.
Good luck on your hunt
Dave ----
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I was really surprised you have a switch-operated blend door. I guess you can’t judge a book by its cover, considering the units look very similar.
Good luck getting it resolved.
When looking at the control from the top the switch on the right is the blower switch.
The 1 control with the switch on the left is for duel tanks.
That long black thing with nubs off the left side is a vacuum & electrical switch for AC and it operates from the top lever.
The nubs is where the vacuum manifold (bunch of vacuum lines) plugs in, there should be studs that nuts go on to hold the manifold in place that break off when you try to undo the nuts.
On the end of that long black switch (bottom of picture) is where the electrical plug for the AC part plugs in that is the pigtail he needs.
The other bottom lever you see on the right control is for the hot or cold temp and that has a cable that goes to it. The other control also has it but cant see it.
Dave ----
A/C Heater - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible)
The conversation gets a little confusing because the only "blend" door in that diagram is the cable-operated temperature blend door.
Not sure about other years, but that's how my 1984 is, too.
If the subject door is the inside/outside door, well no problem, as mine is also vacuum operated.
Lots of good info has been passed around in this thread.

I am fixing the no heater issue on my 86 f350 it is a 6.9 idi, c6 auto and has factory air (bypassed with v belt to it removed by prev owner compressor is probably a goner), took the hvac controls out and found a pretty toasted damper door/blender switch part #yh380 and also the connector is burned up some to. Symptoms were awhile ago the heater would only work if you fussed around with the selector switch and got it in just the right couple places than finally it died all together.
I have ordered a new YH380, sadly the connector WPT344 seems to be complete unobtanium so far as I can tell now from my searching
, I have ordered a WPT448 as it looks identical in the provided literature and picture but perhaps the wires are smaller gauge? Anyways I will see if I can rig up that connector to work somehow or may just end up individually connecting pigtails as some awesome person mentioned above!The only couple questions I had from reading this thread were
1. Just to confirm only 1 of the levers on the back of my controls should have a cable to it since it is an AC truck, mine was on the upper arm (the cool/warm lever)
2. I am wondering if my vacuum lines are all present and correct, in the attached photos the cluster of 5 are all there, the 2 next to them only 1 has a nipple on the block and that one has a clear plug in it (cannot blow air through it), lastly the top 2 horizontal ones had no vacuum lines present and are not plugged











