Odd parts
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 11
Likes: 2
From: Harrington, DE
Odd parts
Hi. I have a 97 F350 crew cab dually I bought in 2000. It had 125k when I got it and now has 270k. I got it to haul draft horses but now I use it to haul heavy equipment for a contractor. The 1st difference in parts came when I bought my 1st set of wiper blades. The ones listed were too long. I was told it was because it was built in the middle of changeover to new style truck. It was built in Dec'96. In the last couple years I've had to start replacing a few things and lately, the parts being replaced don't seem to be the right for the truck. My power breaks went out last month and the mechanic was confused because the vacuum pump was different than his 96 power stroke. Now,according to all my research, my steering shows signs bad u-joints. I've been online looking to replace the shaft and they all show u-joints. I was happy to find just the u-joints listed so went to see if I had 1 set or 2. When I looked at the shaft this morning I saw there are no u-joints. It looks like the shafts used on 98 models. Does this mean I might need a new steering box or am I missing s grease fitting somewhere?
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 14,375
Likes: 604
From: evansville in
The vaccum pump should be nothing out of the ordinary for any 95-97 7.3. most people get parts looked up for 96 because 97 muddies the waters.
You need to get under the hood and front end and see what is loose. Have someone operate the steering wheel with engine off and watch for movement where none should exist. No guessing here or you may spend a lot for nothing.
My first look is always the gear box. By your mileage every one I have owned needed some adjustment.
Even my 94 f150 with 120k needed some adjustment to be to my liking.
You need to get under the hood and front end and see what is loose. Have someone operate the steering wheel with engine off and watch for movement where none should exist. No guessing here or you may spend a lot for nothing.
My first look is always the gear box. By your mileage every one I have owned needed some adjustment.
Even my 94 f150 with 120k needed some adjustment to be to my liking.
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 11
Likes: 2
From: Harrington, DE
The shop that works on my truck (the things I can't or don't want to tackle) has a fleet of fords for towing including older models. When I went to see about my steering issues, he told me there's a line running connecting the power steering and the power break units. When he looked at my truck he was surprised to see I had a vacuum pump running off the belt. The only thing he found wrong was the steering damper and that was replaced. The truck has new upper and lower ball joints and outer tierod ends so the front end parts are all tight, The steering issue is intermittent binding at low rpm. A little tug or a little higher rpm and it goes free. According to everything I've read or watched so far, this "should be" bad u-joints in the steering shaft. The only problem being I don't have any.The steering wheel does have a little play at the top and that's where I feel it grab when I turn it Is there something at the wheel that can cause intermittent binding at low rpm?
I'll still have someone work the wheel while I look at the box.
Thanks for the help.
I'll still have someone work the wheel while I look at the box.
Thanks for the help.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,098
Likes: 1,504
From: western SD
The shop that works on my truck (the things I can't or don't want to tackle) has a fleet of fords for towing including older models. When I went to see about my steering issues, he told me there's a line running connecting the power steering and the power break units. When he looked at my truck he was surprised to see I had a vacuum pump running off the belt. The only thing he found wrong was the steering damper and that was replaced. The truck has new upper and lower ball joints and outer tierod ends so the front end parts are all tight, The steering issue is intermittent binding at low rpm. A little tug or a little higher rpm and it goes free. According to everything I've read or watched so far, this "should be" bad u-joints in the steering shaft. The only problem being I don't have any.The steering wheel does have a little play at the top and that's where I feel it grab when I turn it Is there something at the wheel that can cause intermittent binding at low rpm?
I'll still have someone work the wheel while I look at the box.
Thanks for the help.
I'll still have someone work the wheel while I look at the box.
Thanks for the help.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 7,188
Likes: 1,338
From: Bahstun
steering issue is intermittent binding at low rpm
If you rev up the engine and no more bind, then doubt its a bearing
The PS pump gets weak with age or steering box leaks internally and these 7.3 idle low too.
I drive a stick and run on AC a lot so I don't see it as much unless its cool out and AC is off.
My taco had the steering ujoints bind up. It was like at 8 and 2 o clock where my bind was on the wheel.
PB Blaster helped a bit but would bind up after next road salting or rain as the rubber cup seals were gone.
If you rev up the engine and no more bind, then doubt its a bearing
The PS pump gets weak with age or steering box leaks internally and these 7.3 idle low too.
I drive a stick and run on AC a lot so I don't see it as much unless its cool out and AC is off.
My taco had the steering ujoints bind up. It was like at 8 and 2 o clock where my bind was on the wheel.
PB Blaster helped a bit but would bind up after next road salting or rain as the rubber cup seals were gone.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 542
Likes: 1
As I recall, the ‘99 MY started in the spring of ‘98, so they should have been building ‘97s through the fall of ‘97, yours shouldn’t be an early one at all - but stranger things have happened. For wipers, they must have given you F250 LD wipers, the windshield flat isn’t big enough for longer blades. Belt vacuum pumps are the norm, your guy must have had all OBS F-superduties, they were the only ones then with hydro boost, vac pumps were the system back to the 6.9s. As far as the ps problems, sounds like the pump to me, if rpm changes it, bad bearings or joints will make it drive strange, not just have tight spots that change with engine rpm....
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
I have had new ball joints (cheaper ones) drag like you are talking about. Changed them with moog ones - and all was fine.
Just another possibility.
Just another possibility.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
Rule of thumb when ordering parts for the 97 just say it's a model 96. I've had to do this many times when ordering online or at the local parts store. Very little difference between the 96-97 years but a Hugh difference between the 97-98-99 models.
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Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 11
Likes: 2
From: Harrington, DE
Yes, he sis say his rollback is a 96 F450. You'd think they keep what's under the hood consistent if for no other reason that saving money on the builds He did check my pump and steering box and told me they were good. Maybe it's time for a 2nd opinion.
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 11
Likes: 2
From: Harrington, DE
Yea, I did learn that one fast. Now this steering shaft that looks like it belongs on a 98 has me puzzled but at least I know it's not an issue with u-joints.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 15,505
Likes: 18
From: Livoina,La
Start looking up parts for a 96 f250 cause some jackazz at for decided to build a light duty f250 in 97. It’s basically a f150 with a beefier spring pack and 7 lugs. I alway have issue finding parts if I look up 97 f250
FYI there is no 98 f250
FYI there is no 98 f250
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 11
Likes: 2
From: Harrington, DE
OK...I ordered a rebuild kit for the top of the column. Two new bearings,retainer, spring and a couple little parts. It took me a lot longer than expected but I got it all finished and it steers like a new truck. Part of the extra time was fixing a few things in the dash and cleaning out 22 years of dust. I have to say the man I called at the company that made the kit was the most helpful person I've ever spoke to when calling for help. As it turns out, he was Pres. of the company. Now my only issue is getting the ignition switch back in. LOL. No mater how I like it up, it refuses to go in all the way. Looks like I'll have to call him one more time.
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 11
Likes: 2
From: Harrington, DE
The kit I bought came with one of the best set of instructions with full pictures I've ever seen. Everything is lined up just like it should be. The gear and keeper are set to the on position, the switch is still in the on position. From what I can see, the switch won't go back in at all unless it's in the on position. I can push it half way in but something stops it. Luckily it's an old truck and my master key (screw driver) turns the the gear to all the positions, starts the engine, springs back to the run position and even shuts off just as it should.. I can even get the switch back in far enough to more the gear a little. Maybe a bigger persuader? LOL...Not crazy enough to use the hammer...yet