Here's the dealio.
I have a 2005 F150, Lariat, 5.4 4x4, short wheel base (extended cab, 5.5' bed). Towing capacity is listed at 6800 I believe (not 100% sure, it's between 6500 and 7500).
My uncle has a 8000-9500 pound camper trailer (8k empty, 9.5k max).
I know the 7-lug, long wheelbase Max tow package trucks were rated at 9800 pounds with the same motor, so I'm not worried about the engine. I'm assuming it's a difference in suspension and brakes.
Is there anything I can easily change to safely tow this? (Other than replace my truck, be helpful here guys come on)

 

Check out the 2005 RV and Trailer Towing Guide:

https://www.fleet.ford.com/resources...wing_Guide.pdf

See page 6 for F150 HD Payload Package content
See page 14 for F150 Trailer Towing Package content
See page 15 for required equipment
See page 16 for F150 maximum trailer weights, aka magical mystery “Tow Ratings”
Tow Ratings are not absolute; see the top of page 16 for important definitions.
See page 25 for F150 requirements for a weight-distributing hitch
See pages 26 and 27 for important discussions about weights
See page 28 for towing tips

HTH, and safe travels!
Jim / crewzer

 

Based on this info alone, the tow rating is from 7,300-9,300....depending on your actual wheelbase and differential ratios.

Where you will likely run out of room is the payload of your truck = GVWR - Actual, loaded for camping weight (check with a scale) = allowable tongue weight/.13 give you realistic actually trailer weight.

My guess is that your truck doesn't have the right configuration to be in compliance.

The only thing to keep it in compliance is lower the actual weight of the trailer (remove all needed items) and lower the weight of your truck (remove tailgate, running boards and have a chase vehicle with any other gear and occupants in it.).

Realistically, that trailer is too big for your truck.

 

Are we talking 3 trips a year 100 miles or 1000’s of miles every summer?

There are ways to improve handling of a heavily loaded vehicle

manually shift auto trans so not hard down shifting at every hill.

Get the best brake controller you can find

heavier load range tires

air bag or add a leaf systems.

You need heavier and properly adjusted wd hitch regardless of tow vehicle

a scale is your real friend in this set up. If it looks overloaded then it is.

Usually axle ratings when added together are her are more than truck gvw is. You can try it and scale it and adjust your hitch and see if you can be close on max axle ratings.

I have successfully towed several times 10,000 with a 2006 tundra. Rated 7200 cc 4wd contractor cap and many tools in Hilly Pennsylvania and southwestern ny mountains.

I have also overheated truck brakes on a steep downhill with a boat that weighed 4400 lbs with no trailer brakes. That was scary. That trailer has brakes now. Trouble can happen below max ratings as well.


Can it be done? Yes.


Should anyone on here recommend it. No.

 

I agree with the others: This would be an unsafe combination.

Your towing cap=6,500 - Uncle's trailer=8,000 = -1,500
Your towing cap=6,500 - Uncle's trailer=9,500 = -3,000
Your towing cap=6,800 - Uncle's trailer=8,000 = -1,200
Your towing cap=6,800 - Uncle's trailer=9,500 = -2,700
Your towing cap=7,500 - Uncle's trailer=8,000 = -500
Your towing cap=7,500 - Uncle's trailer=9,500 = -2,000

Best case, you're 500 pounds overweight . . . and that's considering that these weights are accurate and NOTHING extra is loaded. I wouldn't recommend this. By the wording, I'm guessing that nobody has really weighed your uncle's trailer.

Also, tongue weight?

Weight-distributing hitch?

Big mountains to climb and descend?

Crosswinds, etc. (weight of trailer loosely relates to size of trailer)?

Traffic you'll be seeing?

Speed you'll be driving?

. . . and transmission and springs and shocks and wheels.

No. And from a legal standpoint, if something terrible were to happen, you'd be on the hook for being overloaded.

Also, consider the wheelbase and weight. The shorter the wheelbase of the truck, the less control the truck has over the trailer, both in weight distribution and in steering leverage. The lower the weight of the truck, the less control the truck has over the trailer when influence is needed. If the trailer gets wacky for whatever reason, your truck will be much-less able to handle it than your uncle's.

 

I've got a 35' Denali, and I was driving an 09 F150 supercab 4x4 with 3.55 axles when I bought it. That trailer weighs 9000 dry, and it actually pulled pretty nice. Snoqualamie pass was sketchy, and the sway got bad a couple times, but all things considered it handled the trailer fine. I dont have the truck anymore so I cant check what was rated for, but I'm pretty sure it was maxed out dry. Definitely recommend WDH and watch your transmission temp. I drive a 250 now, and it is way more comfortable, so its definitely better to be under your max.