more rocker probs
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Ok Jack, two more things, there is quite a bit of information about rotating the crank shaft, should I do this before I start this work? I am researching these forums but cannot get an answer that applies to my situation. On the pushrods, when I put it in there I don't really and spring or bounce as some have described it. Am I missing something?
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From: Jersey Shore
With the top damage you had, those lifters are going to be pumped out to maximum right to the circlips. they are going to need to be bleed down, and that's going to take pressure and time. When you get the borescope put it down the pushrod pathway and inspect the situation. You'll need to put the damaged pushrod in place, then with a 10mm socket that fits over the pushrod, push down hard and it may take minutes for the lifter to bleed oil between the plunger and the lifter body. Eventually, you'll get to the point of about 0.200" of light pressure travel, then the oil is bled out of the lifter. Then things can go back together. You need to recheck travel right before it all goes together.
If you have a bent valve stem or something else that hung up the valve, the first startup this damage may all happen again. It's why the prudent thing is to pull the head an check it out.
The manual has this info.
If you have a bent valve stem or something else that hung up the valve, the first startup this damage may all happen again. It's why the prudent thing is to pull the head an check it out.
The manual has this info.
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Hello- Just wanted to post a follow up-and thanks to Jack (Too many toys) who babysat me through the whole repair. I ended up replacing the rocker arm carrier and two push rods, In process, I serviced all of the injectors and oil rails by cleaning and replacing o rings. I removed everything up to water pump to give me good access to crankshaft. Turns out both 8mm rocker arm bolts were broken, one I got out but the other one was drilled and helo coiled and several down the line were only finger tight. I re-torqued everything, turned the crankshaft a couple of times (nice and smooth), put in new fan clutch and aluminum radiator on the way out. Truck is running great.
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From: Jersey Shore
Cool.
I never popped back in and I meant too. If all those bolts were loose then the mechanic never went back over them after squeezing down with the head bolts, studs in this case. When I looked at that, those 8mm bolts hold down the "wings", providing more support to the bridge so it doesn't move and fracture. Good that you checked the rest and if you didn't, check the other head too.
Many don't make it through you're situation well, and I'm glad you were able to.
And Kudos for getting back, so many don't and its a loss to the diesel community.
I never popped back in and I meant too. If all those bolts were loose then the mechanic never went back over them after squeezing down with the head bolts, studs in this case. When I looked at that, those 8mm bolts hold down the "wings", providing more support to the bridge so it doesn't move and fracture. Good that you checked the rest and if you didn't, check the other head too.
Many don't make it through you're situation well, and I'm glad you were able to.
And Kudos for getting back, so many don't and its a loss to the diesel community.
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Yes Jack I glad it has worked out so far. I think the bolts were loose and the heavy load I was towing was enough to vibrate the head off the bolt and then the carrier cracked where the head bolt went through, the weakest point. And yes, as you said, although the bolts don't have a lot of torque on them they are necessary.
Since I had to remove the head stud to replace the rocker arm I will be keeping an eye on my deltas, might even buy a gas testing kit for the degas bottle. I did replace the electric fan clutch with the 7.3. It has made a huge difference, My coolant temps were getting high (212°-216° on the top of the curve with normal but high EOT's) and there was a fairly noticeable ringing which I attributed to the compressor clutch needing a shim. On the first day I got it running it was 104°outside and my ECT high was 194° and my EOT never saw 200 after 1.5 hours of driving. And the ringing was completely gone. I checked every bolt on both sides before I buttoned it up. Driver side was all fine.
I was not far from removing head and I still might have to. This was a great experience. I have such respect for the technology that goes into these vehicles. At 51 I felt ok perched on top of a 6.0 for 40 hours.
Don't think my wife agrees with me though.
Tim
Since I had to remove the head stud to replace the rocker arm I will be keeping an eye on my deltas, might even buy a gas testing kit for the degas bottle. I did replace the electric fan clutch with the 7.3. It has made a huge difference, My coolant temps were getting high (212°-216° on the top of the curve with normal but high EOT's) and there was a fairly noticeable ringing which I attributed to the compressor clutch needing a shim. On the first day I got it running it was 104°outside and my ECT high was 194° and my EOT never saw 200 after 1.5 hours of driving. And the ringing was completely gone. I checked every bolt on both sides before I buttoned it up. Driver side was all fine.
I was not far from removing head and I still might have to. This was a great experience. I have such respect for the technology that goes into these vehicles. At 51 I felt ok perched on top of a 6.0 for 40 hours.
Don't think my wife agrees with me though.
Tim
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Jersey Shore
My back won't let me do that anymore, I have to pull the fan and radiator so I can stand on the linkage up close.
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