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a soft or spongy pedal or one that goes to the floor is never a Booster issue unless somehow the mechanical rod inside the booster snapped in half (and that is unlikely to happen)
what does happen is the MC fails and causes the pedal to run to the floor.
Test the Vacuum with a Gauge before just tossing more money at the problem.
Pretty much there are 2 boosters one does not have an adjustable rod, in this case you don't mess with it ..... the other booster has an adjustable rod and this is generally preset my the Rebuilder/Manufacture so you probably don't need to mess with it....
IF you need to check it this is the tool to use.....
your Service manual tells you what the dimension of the rod protruding from the booster is... in the case of the 88 F250 it is 25mm .... there is also a Go/No Go gauge that can be used to set this value.
a soft or spongy pedal or one that goes to the floor is never a Booster issue unless somehow the mechanical rod inside the booster snapped in half (and that is unlikely to happen)
what does happen is the MC fails and causes the pedal to run to the floor.
Test the Vacuum with a Gauge before just tossing more money at the problem.
I’m only speaking from experience with my truck, and a bad booster will cause a soft pedal. The rod wasn’t broken, the booster would make a hissing sound when the pedal was depressed and go almost to the floor. I still had brakes there was just a long delay from the time I pressed the pedal to the time I actually had brakes. I put new shoes, drums, wheel cylinders and pads on it expecting to fix the problem but it didn’t. Then I heard the hissing by the firewall and clued in.
A few years prior to that I went to park along a sidewalk in town and when I stepped on the brakes the pedal was rock solid. Had to casually roll by and park farther down the street. The vacuum pump died at that moment, causing a hard pedal that I wasn’t expecting.
Oh I’m pretty confident it would be the vacuum pump sending has the pedal is rocksolid but allowing still just the slightest breaKing but I do have to change the pulley set up on the system
most the time when you buy a Vacuum pump they come without the pulley, the other thing you can do is buy a new POD to repair the pump you already have BUT the POD is a bit harder to find..
Rock Auto has both the pump and the Pulley for 88 F250 in stock.
Harbor Fright carries the tool to remove and install the pulley.
you can search Flea Bay for cheaper, or perhaps Pull A Part the Vacuum Pump costs like 30 bux and some local tax.
I went for the pump and I had to buy a new vbelt pulley to because I didn’t have a press or anything strong enough to get the old pulley off the pump and when I put this new pulley on the new pump should I heat the pulley first.
I went for the pump and I had to buy a new vbelt pulley to because I didn’t have a press or anything strong enough to get the old pulley off the pump and when I put this new pulley on the new pump should I heat the pulley first.
There's no reason to buy a new pulley. You can rent a pulley puller kit from most auto parts stores. I suggest taking the new pulley back and getting your money back. Then find a new auto parts store. The guys that sold you a new pulley instead of renting you a puller kit are crooks. You don't have to heat the pulley to use the puller. It removes and installs the pulley. I did both the V belt and serpentine belt pulley on the vacuum pump of my 6.9l (my spare 7.3l is serpentine).
I went for the pump and I had to buy a new vbelt pulley to because I didn’t have a press or anything strong enough to get the old pulley off the pump and when I put this new pulley on the new pump should I heat the pulley first.
X2 There is no need to get another pulley. I just replaced the vaccum pump on my 6.9 IDI and was able to get the pulley off using this $20 Harbor Freight kit. An impact really helps, but you don't need one. Just follow the instructions with the kit and use a little ingenuity and it works well. Here is the kit I used:
Also do NOT heat it up when you put the new pulley on. Just put a little bit of lubricant on the shaft and install it using the kit I linked above. And proof it works - here's the old pulley on my new pump. As an FYI replacing my pump fixed my hard brake pedal too.
Don't forget to put the bolts in the pump before pressing the Pulley on....... it may not be an issue on a V belt pulley but it sure is on the serpentine Pulley.
and yes either rent the tool or buy one from Harbor Fright as I said before....
OR you can just swap the POD and replace the Gear oil in the Pump Body as long as your Pump body is still good and not leaking, then you don't need the tool.
Don't forget to put the bolts in the pump before pressing the Pulley on....... it may not be an issue on a V belt pulley but it sure is on the serpentine Pulley.
and yes either rent the tool or buy one from Harbor Fright as I said before....
OR you can just swap the POD and replace the Gear oil in the Pump Body as long as your Pump body is still good and not leaking, then you don't need the tool.
Not an issue on the V-Belt pulley, it's three bolts and they thread in the backside of the bracket and pump.
The puller will also work on power steering pump pullies on all the big three brands. Which is really handy to have if you want to buy one and keep it.
Vacuum gauges can be had for roughly twenty five bucks here locally, and luckily I had one on hand to diagnose mine when my pump got weak.
06-16-2019, 12:30 PM
