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Yes. Althiugh you give up rebates to get zero percent. If you have good credit, take the rebates.
I guess I didn’t understand how the X-Plan was factoring in. The dealer said the same thing however I thought the X-plan price would counter act the rebates loss and give me the best of both worlds.
It's all a numbers game. To get max rebates, you also have to take Ford financing. Do that, then go to your credit union after your first payment and get 3% or so, then refinance it. Your payments will then be less than zero percent AND you'll have less to payback/lower payoff.
It's all a numbers game. To get max rebates, you also have to take Ford financing. Do that, then go to your credit union after your first payment and get 3% or so, then refinance it. Your payments will then be less than zero percent AND you'll have less to payback/lower payoff.
I was worried about doing that since you’d effectively be financing a used car so your interest rate would probably be higher than a new car if you went straight to the credit union to start.
In order to use X-plan, you must first be a member of a group or an employee of a company that is partnered with Ford. X-plan has no bearing on factory and dealer incentives.
I do agree that on trucks, especially the high volume trim models such as the STX and XLT's, you can do better than X-plan but, on the high end models, possibly not so much but I could very well be wrong.
I would always take the rebates and shop around for better terms after the purchase. When I bought my 2011 truck, I was offered 0% or the rebates. I took the rebates and then negotiated my rates with Ford credit down to 1.9%. In that case I win but times have changed a bit over the last eight years.