Master Clutch Cylinder + Clutch Slave Cylinder > black cup in reservoir...DUH!
#1
10-03-2003, 12:49 PM
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Master Clutch Cylinder + Clutch Slave Cylinder > black cup in reservoir...DUH!
Here goes
,
I was cussing up a storm
thinking that I was going to have to change my 
Slave Cylinder in my Ranger w/ a Mazda! Well...come to find out after going out on line again 
, I reapproached my trany problem again (DO IT TILL YOU SUCCEED). I checked the travel of the piston of the Master Clutch Cylinder and found out that it was only working at the bottom of it's bore
...so I went back to checking the fluid in the Clutch Reservoir. I thought that the black cup in the trany reservoir was for filtering fluid contaminents that might get entered into the system when add fluid. 
Wrong-O. It is an expansion cup, like the one in Master Brake Cylinders Reservoirs. Took it out, added fluid, pumped it up, watched it purge itself of air and OH! HAPPY! DAYS! 
Well my trany now shifts just like new, except for reverse. I'll figure this out, with the help of the FTE FAMILY!
,I was cussing up a storm
thinking that I was going to have to change my Slave Cylinder in my Ranger w/ a Mazda! Well...come to find out after going out on line again , I reapproached my trany problem again (DO IT TILL YOU SUCCEED). I checked the travel of the piston of the Master Clutch Cylinder and found out that it was only working at the bottom of it's bore...so I went back to checking the fluid in the Clutch Reservoir. I thought that the black cup in the trany reservoir was for filtering fluid contaminents that might get entered into the system when add fluid. Wrong-O. It is an expansion cup, like the one in Master Brake Cylinders Reservoirs. Took it out, added fluid, pumped it up, watched it purge itself of air and OH! HAPPY! DAYS! Well my trany now shifts just like new, except for reverse. I'll figure this out, with the help of the FTE FAMILY!
#3
10-18-2003, 02:30 AM
wow... glad to hear you resolved the problem. Maybe someone can help me with mine.
I have a 87, 2.9L Ranger 4x4 and the clutch has never been right. mainly because of the clutch hydraulic systems. I bled it and it got better for a few days and got heavy again. I had the master cylinder replaced and it was good for a couple of weeks and the problem returned.
It's just so heavy!! and I know it shouldn't because with the new cylinder, it's almost as light as a Honda. Now it won't even rebound in time to shift properly.
I removed the black cup, bled the systems and put in all synthetic fluid. No use.
I've had this truck for over 10 years and this is the only thing I can't seem to fix no matter what!!!! Personally, I think it's the hydraulic line too close the exhaust manifold and pipes.
Any suggestions?
Gary
I have a 87, 2.9L Ranger 4x4 and the clutch has never been right. mainly because of the clutch hydraulic systems. I bled it and it got better for a few days and got heavy again. I had the master cylinder replaced and it was good for a couple of weeks and the problem returned.
It's just so heavy!! and I know it shouldn't because with the new cylinder, it's almost as light as a Honda. Now it won't even rebound in time to shift properly.
I removed the black cup, bled the systems and put in all synthetic fluid. No use.
I've had this truck for over 10 years and this is the only thing I can't seem to fix no matter what!!!! Personally, I think it's the hydraulic line too close the exhaust manifold and pipes.
Any suggestions?
Gary
#4
10-18-2003, 06:55 AM
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Gary,
It is certainly possible that the proximity to the exhaust is heating the oil to the point it damages the master cylinder and/or slave cylinder.
As far as a solution . .
moving the line is obvious. However, I was also thinking you could (as a test) insulate the tubing with header wrap. You know; "mummy tape" used to keep the heat in the headers and out of the engine bay.
Shoooot, I'd be surprised if www.motorhaven.com didn't have some ready to deliver!
HTH.
It is certainly possible that the proximity to the exhaust is heating the oil to the point it damages the master cylinder and/or slave cylinder.
As far as a solution . .
moving the line is obvious. However, I was also thinking you could (as a test) insulate the tubing with header wrap. You know; "mummy tape" used to keep the heat in the headers and out of the engine bay.
Shoooot, I'd be surprised if www.motorhaven.com didn't have some ready to deliver!
HTH.