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I run 315/75r16 toyo mt's on my leveled truck. They rub the drivers side fender well at full lock and almost rub the passenger side at full lock . I like how it currently sits and more importantly love how it rides. Don't want to lift it anymore....been down that road. The rubbing gets worse when I run my front mud flaps. Having the mudflaps is a must. Already repainted the drivers door due to rock damage. A member here told me about these zero rate add a leafs that move the front axle anywhere from an 1"-1.5" forward and eliminate any rubbing issues one might have. I've done some research and found where some have used it on their super duty with success.
Has anyone else on here run these or have any experience with them? What kind of suspension or steering geometry nightmares am I going to cause by bringing the axle forward? I'm thinking the front driveshaft might need to be lengthened.
if you dont want to lift it then why are you considering these ? they will lift it 1”
that said yes i have relocated axles both forwards and bsck and the short answer is you always need check clearances but moving the front forward doesnt present any problem.
if your tires are just rubbing the plastic inner fender liner why not just pull the bottom liner back 1”, all it takes is a simple bracket , or a couple of zip ties if you want to booty fab it. sometime the rub is because the plastic rivits holding the linner on have broken or come loose. lay on the ground and check your very bottom attachment points under the rocker at the back of the fender
if you dont want to lift it then why are you considering these ? they will lift it 1” The tuff country leveling kit I have consists of several mini leaves. The bottom three measure exactly 1". Was thinking of having those removed and the block bolted in their place.
that said yes i have relocated axles both forwards and bsck and the short answer is you always need check clearances but moving the front forward doesnt present any problem.
if your tires are just rubbing the plastic inner fender liner why not just pull the bottom liner back 1”, all it takes is a simple bracket , or a couple of zip ties if you want to booty fab it. My ocd will not allow me to"booty fab" anything. sometime the rub is because the plastic rivits holding the linner on have broken or come loose. lay on the ground and check your very bottom attachment points under the rocker at the back of the fender
if they are the leafs tuff country built the pack with then they are adding vital spring rate to the pavk and removing them will likely sag your front height more then the 1” a block will make up. you will be lowering your spring rate which diminishes their capacity.
if they are the leafs tuff country built the pack with then they are adding vital spring rate to the pavk and removing them will likely sag your front height more then the 1” a block will make up. you will be lowering your spring rate which diminishes their capacity.
I want to remove the first three from the spring perch up if possible
when i get to a computer tonight i will look up dome specs but those bottom 3 do not look like TC supplied springs, most likely “mini leafs” added to the TC pack.
If it's only rubbing on the wheel liner you can fix that pretty cheap. I have a thread somewhere but I can't find it so I'll try and describe what I did when my 285s were rubbing the wheel liners. First I cut two pieces of sheet steel about 4x8 and rounded the corners, painted them black. These serve two purposes, to cover up the damage from the rubbing and as a giant "washer" to allow the liner to be pulled back by a bolt/rod system. Next I cut some pieces of 2x2 angle iron and welded them back to back and drilled them to bolt to the underside of the running boards, and I also drilled the lower piece for 1/2" all thread that goes to a piece of plate with two carriage bolts going through the piece of sheet steel. (you will notice in the pics I had to cut part of one angle out for clearance) Then all I had to do was adjust the nuts till I pulled the liner back enough to stop the rubbing.
when i get to a computer tonight i will look up dome specs but those bottom 3 do not look like TC supplied springs, most likely “mini leafs” added to the TC pack.
It's x-codes sitting on top of a tuff country 2.5" leveling kit (part #82201) bought new by me in the summer of 2014.
If it's only rubbing on the wheel liner you can fix that pretty cheap. I have a thread somewhere but I can't find it so I'll try and describe what I did when my 285s were rubbing the wheel liners. First I cut two pieces of sheet steel about 4x8 and rounded the corners, painted them black. These serve two purposes, to cover up the damage from the rubbing and as a giant "washer" to allow the liner to be pulled back by a bolt/rod system. Next I cut some pieces of 2x2 angle iron and welded them back to back and drilled them to bolt to the underside of the running boards, and I also drilled the lower piece for 1/2" all thread that goes to a piece of plate with two carriage bolts going through the piece of sheet steel. (you will notice in the pics I had to cut part of one angle out for clearance) Then all I had to do was adjust the nuts till I pulled the liner back enough to stop the rubbing.
I had someone message me about the zero rates so I thought I'd update this thread. A buddy and I installed these back in june and I've put about 3,500 miles on the truck since then. These add a leaves allow you to space the axle out either 1" OR 1.5". I chose to move it forward an 1". Install was pretty straight forward. My ride height stayed the same as I removed several leaves from my already existing multi leaf leveling kit. The ride quality didn't change either. Rides very well IMO. With the axle being moved forward I can run some very beefy mudflaps on the front and I get zero rub on the flaps or fender from lock to lock and that's with 315's. I'm really pleased with these things.
Something worth mentioning should others try these out is that your are going to need to purchase new centering pins /bolts and drill the holes (depending on which you choose to use) a little larger. The pins and bolts provided are 3/8". Super duty springs will require a 7/16" centering pin and a 7/16" bolt to attach the zero rate to the existing spring pack. The length of the bolt you purchase (to attach the zero rate to the existing leaf pack) will be dictated by the thickness of your current leaf pack configuration. The centering pin length doesn't matter as you will be cutting the excess thread off below flush of the zero rate. Make sure you use a fine threaded bolt. Not coarse. I ended up with (grade 8) 7/16x20 threaded bolts. Then drill the hole(s) in the zero rate out to 7/16" and your good to go.
Have been running my 1" zero rate blocks with the axle moved forward 1" for 2 years now. Was able to run soft U-code springs and big mudflaps with zero issues of rubbing. The truck spends a lot of time off road and the ability to run a U-code spring allows the truck to really soak up the bumps.
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