I've got an 82 f100 with a 300 6 in front of a c6, got a 9" rear end with I think 2.75 gears, have to check my notes to be sure. I'm about to the peak of my build, got a few bits to swap on the engine, paint, seals and then assembly. It's on hold right now until I can get an engine hoist. Had a small bottle jack mishap. Mechanically everything is original except the engine. Casting numbers show it was made in I think august of 95. No idea if it was pulled from a newer truck or if it was a surplus engine. Don't know if it's all stock even. Got the casting numbers off the head but cant find them right now, will have to pull them again. Not tearing the engine apart right now, seems to be fine. Started with a blown out exhaust manifold. Will probably start a thread one of the days asking if there is anyway to identify engine modifications without doing a teardown.

But, point of this thread is to find out if anyone recommends a special motor oil for this engine. I'm going to replace all the fluids before she's roadworthy again, and will eventually start threads for those. If you performance guys have recommendations for those as well I'd appreciate it.

 

Convention oil, 5-30 is what I use to run in mine (for 17 years)...I would start with that and see how it goes, might have to up it to 5-40 or 10-40 depending on oil usage

 

Use what the factory recommends in whichever grade level (SE,SF,SG,etc.) they recommend. If you want a little better bang-for-the-buck add in 1 quart of synthetic to your regular fill. Of the same brand.
I use Valvoline with success.

 

What's the benefit of adding a quart of synthetic? What about using all synthetic, either a full or a blend? What about adding in Lucas? Anything special I need to do on filling up and firing an engine that's sat for months dry? I appreciate guys taking time out to educate me on this stuff.

 

You can use full synthetic.
You can use a synthetic blend.
It is most cost effective and the best-bang-for-the-buck to do the above. I posted a long explanation of why this is correct on previous posts, either here or on fordsix.com. Can't remember which.

 

FYI- 5w-30 was the oem oil spec for normal weather, and as mine approach 100k miles 1st, in the summer months I upped it to 10w-40 and then as we started having a bit of oil consumption (about 1/2 quart between oil changes) I then permanently switched to 10w-40....all still with the oen oil spec. With regards to conventional, semi-syn, full syn oil, the courts have already decided this one....Today, all oils are considered synthetic. While I am not promoting this company nor their products, they have an excellent, detailed description as to how & why all oils today are considered “Synthetic” http://www.synlube.com/synthetic.htm and was confirmed through legal proceedings http://www.scribd.com/doc/217558103/...s-Day-in-Court. Mfgs such as castrol, are actually using a oil base that is not by previous industry standards to be even considered a "synthetic", was sued (By Exxon/Mobile IIRR) and they won in court because they were able to demonstrate with additives they were essentially delivering a syn product. When looking at all the refineries in the US (2014), the only one really capable of supporting 100% synthetic oil manufacturing is Chevron/Phillips refinery in Texas…and it is not promoted as a synthetic oil.

With regards to initial startup, IMHO, I think I would put a little Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel tank (about 1 oz per gallon) which will "lube" up the carb gaskets (I use this o my old school cars when they sit for a while) and spray a little wd40 or MMO in the cylinders just to make sure everything is well lubed and just spin the engine over by hand or with the starter.

 

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...s.php?ubb=cfrm

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum70/

Those are the battlegrounds for the oil wars. Enjoy. Or better yet, just follow FTF's recommendation. As I recall, David 'The Wizard' Vizard recommended what FTF recommends years ago.

 

The Corvair Oil Guide recommends the use of heavy duty engine oils for flat tappet engines and using an oil with enough but not excessive viscosity. Too heavy an oil will cause more oil to unnecessarily recirculate back to the sump. See Engine Wear.

If you're looking for specific recommendation, I like using (but I don't think its very easy to find in the USA) because it uses the same additive package as the 15W-40 grade that is approved for API CK-4/SN and https://www.fuelsandlubes.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/M2C171F_-2016-Oct-25-w-supp.pdf (1000-1200 ppm of phosphorus). is a good alternative because it's also approved for Ford WSS-M2C171-F1 but only API CK-4.

 

With regards to the Corvair oil guide, IMHO, the two engines have little in common as far as tpes of potential concerns...since the Corvair is an air cooled, pancake engine. The oil spec that I gave (weight) was right out of the oem manual....and should be varied based upon operational conditions and internal component wear. To reduce cat converter contamination, ZDDP was reduced from around 2000 ppm to about 700 ppm back in the late 90's, which the engineers advise this is plenty for any engine......but this reduction has paralleled with the increase of flat tappt cam failures, valve tick, etc. The one thing that the aftermarket cam mfgs & machinists agree upon is engines need about 1400 ppm of ZDDP, the newer engines (modulars) with cats, about 1000 ppm. While the oil companies disagree, they recently added another additive to the oils as a "wear reducer" (the name escapes me now). When all of this talk 1st surface. I went right to a person who I knew IMHO had decades experience with oils/cams/etc.....Ron Eskenderian (Ed Eksenderian's son who took over his dad's shop 20 years ago.....ie...Eskenderian racing Cams). After speaking with and then later follow-up conversations with Ron, I add one bottle of ZDDP to my 65 Mustang 289, and 1/3 of a bottle to my mod motors as well (1997 Cougar Sport 4.6 & 2006 Lincoln Mark LT 5.4)- IIRR it is a 9 oz bottle.

 

I'd like to see that post if you could find it. It's a bit hard to believe considering what pre-blended can be had for (or even full synthetic) so I'd like to read it.

 

I'm using a 5w40 synthetic blend from Blain's Farm and Fleet. Pretty sure it is made by Citgo for F&F. About $26 for a 2 gallon jug. Not sure if it is available elsewhere under a different name. Looking up the virgin oil analysis it has the ZDDP for flat tappet protection, and looks to be a good oil for this application.

https://www.farmandfleet.com/product...ngine-oil.html

 

If your engine is a '95, why would you not use 10W30? I believe that is what is recommended for the 95-96 4.9L by Ford. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Because I don't know when it was swapped in, how many miles are on it or how it was maintained and what abuse it has suffered.

 

This is for 1992 - 2002 but might be useful ..... https://www.ford-cruising.hu/miscimages/0219.pdf

 

I was interested in the link you provided for the 1992-2002 4.9L. I'm about to change the oil in my 4.9L and was referencing your article. According to this article it, or whomever, is recommending 5w-20 for the 1993-1999 4.9L. Yet looking at my owners manual is states SAE 10-30 Viscosity is preferred for the 4.9L for climates down to -20 Deg C. So I was wondering if you knew who the author is of the link you provided. It appears to be Ford. If so, i'm wondering about the discrepancy between what they are saying in that article and my owners manual (96,F150-4.9L) I was wondering is Ford has changed their position as to what viscosity should be used for the 96-4.9L. Appreciate any help you can give me with this.