'98 Taurus Fuel Pump Problem
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'98 Taurus Fuel Pump Problem
I am trying to get a Taurus running that cranks but won't fire.
1) Inertia switch is pressed in.
2) No fuel at schrader valve on engine.
3) Switched fuel pump relay and still no go.
4) Tested fuel pump relay and it clicks with 12v applied to input terminal(s)
5) Voltage shows up constantly at one relay plug hole and at another when key turned on.
6) Removed fuel filter connections and turned key on and no fuel comes.
Is it safe to call the fuel pump bad before I drop the tank? I also tried tapping gently on the tank in vain hope it would shock the pump but to no avail.
1) Inertia switch is pressed in.
2) No fuel at schrader valve on engine.
3) Switched fuel pump relay and still no go.
4) Tested fuel pump relay and it clicks with 12v applied to input terminal(s)
5) Voltage shows up constantly at one relay plug hole and at another when key turned on.
6) Removed fuel filter connections and turned key on and no fuel comes.
Is it safe to call the fuel pump bad before I drop the tank? I also tried tapping gently on the tank in vain hope it would shock the pump but to no avail.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Have you checked for applied voltage at the fuel pump connector closest to the pump itself? I once had a complete shut down that was due a bad connector---towing cost $400 for a 90 mile trip to the shop, repair was a mere $50. 
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
I don't know what you're working on so don't know. That's mostly unimportant anyway as this could and probably does exist on every vehicle with underbody wiring and connectors.
Trace your wring and check it all for chafed wires and corroded terminals inside any mated connectors. If possible consult a schematic for whatever you're working on and supply 12 VDC directly to the fuel pump at its connector--I'd consider that a more definitively test for the fuel pump in this situation.
Good luck with this!
Trace your wring and check it all for chafed wires and corroded terminals inside any mated connectors. If possible consult a schematic for whatever you're working on and supply 12 VDC directly to the fuel pump at its connector--I'd consider that a more definitively test for the fuel pump in this situation.
Good luck with this!
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I found the connector that does into the fuel pump. There are five or six plugs and I tried to look for voltage at all of them with the key in the ON position. Got nothing. However, the underbody of the car is very rusted and it may have been just that I couldn't ground the neg lead of the voltmeter properly. Where can I get a schematic for this car for free? The online places I checked charge for them. It's a '98 Taurus wagon.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,476
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From: Frequently frozen MN
Your library might have one. They may not have manuals -- a lot of them seem to be cutting back on actual books. But most these days have computers available in the library and you can get access to a lot of different tech places. Ours has Alldata -- which is not great, but it's OK. . They often show the locations of grounds and the like.
If you want to have a good ground, hook a jumper cable to the battery negative and connect your meter to that. Jist sp you know, when you turn the key to on, it will run the fuel pump for about 2 seconds -- won't run it again until it gets some signal that the engine has started. (unless you cycle the key). So any voltage to the fuel pump will only be there for 2 seconds.
Good Luck,
hj
If you want to have a good ground, hook a jumper cable to the battery negative and connect your meter to that. Jist sp you know, when you turn the key to on, it will run the fuel pump for about 2 seconds -- won't run it again until it gets some signal that the engine has started. (unless you cycle the key). So any voltage to the fuel pump will only be there for 2 seconds.
Good Luck,
hj
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