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Like MKrenn above, Torklift sent a set of these to me as part of an evaluation program earlier this year. It is the latest model that doesn't require drilling all the way through the leaf spring, but you do have to make 3 "dimples"... IIRC the instructions said they needed to be either 1/8" or 1/4" deep... I can't remember for sure, but I went about 1/4" deep on each one (so not really much less drilling... just more spaced out...) Anyway, I went to a Home Depot and picked up a $6 Milwaukee metal drilling bit and used my M12 Fuel Hammer Drill with a 6 amp battery. I set it to a low speed and did not use any oil... I was expecting to wear the drill out, but turns out, it was really pretty easy. My drill and drill bit made quick work of it! The hardest part for me was making sure each set of holes was spaced correctly and in the correct spot (and why I would prefer to just drill a single hole all the way through).
The "dimpled" holes, courtesy of Milwaukee M12 power! Stable load installed. (I still had to tighten the nuts down though.) Installed and engaged. Notice the red Milwaukee drill laying under the truck. Also, I ended up swapping to 2 plates on each StableLoad as 1 is just barely not enough.
Hey Chad, I actually took my truck to a shop where they had all the correct tools. I had a battery drill, but, feared it wasn't big enough. Shop charged me $150. Not bad at all. I recently rotated them out and now back on stock config. Love these things....
I just installed model A7312S on my SD. These do not require drilling all the way though the bottom OL spring. You just need to drill a pilot whole. They came with tethers that will hold on to them in case they come loose. Torklift was kind enough to send me these as part of the customer trial program. I plan to test them this weekend. The vendor that installed them did a nice job, but, advised that they are tight and will require the body to be lifted a little to remove them. The OM advises that you can use a 3/8" drive ratchet & extension to turn them in and out if they are stuck. I plan to leave them in place for now and see how much it affects my ride when I'm empty.
It looks like this driver front bracket is on the reverse of the instructions.
Do you foresee any problems with fouling the parking brake cable etc.?
My father in law put his on the correct way where the plates swing out to the inside of the truck (per the instructions) and that just seems foolish to have to get on the ground to implement.
I plan on putting mine on like yours.
It looks like this driver front bracket is on the reverse of the instructions.
Do you foresee any problems with fouling the parking brake cable etc.?
My father in law put his on the correct way where the plates swing out to the inside of the truck (per the instructions) and that just seems foolish to have to get on the ground to implement.
I plan on putting mine on like yours.
I didn't install these. I had a shop do it. The kit came with a parking break relocation bracket. So no issues with that. Much easier to move them when they are outside...
Anyone have feedback for the StableLoads on their half-ton truck? Considering them for my F150. Don't tow anywhere near the limit, but should help feel more planted.
I got mine installed. They work as advertised. I ended up with 1 shim in the front of the springs and 2 in the back. It is amazing how much axle wrap these 6.7's have, I can tell the difference with the Stable Loads, no axle wrap. With them engaged and empty, the ride is a little firmer but not terrible. If I were to go on a long trip unloaded I would swing them out, but for short drives I leave them in so I am not constantly engaging and disengaging when I pull my trailers.
I just installed model A7312S on my SD. These do not require drilling all the way though the bottom OL spring. You just need to drill a pilot whole. They came with tethers that will hold on to them in case they come loose. Torklift was kind enough to send me these as part of the customer trial program. I plan to test them this weekend. The vendor that installed them did a nice job, but, advised that they are tight and will require the body to be lifted a little to remove them. The OM advises that you can use a 3/8" drive ratchet & extension to turn them in and out if they are stuck. I plan to leave them in place for now and see how much it affects my ride when I'm empty.
I have these "No Drill" Stableloads as well. I installed them myself in a leisurely couple of hours. I've had airbags in the past and didn't want to go that route this time. These seemed like the way to go and didn't have to drill all the way through the spring. I left them engaged for a few days but ride was a bit harsher so I disengaged them. With a floor jack/block and jacking on the hitch, it takes only a couple minutes to turn them in or out. No a big deal. Haven't had a load big enough to put them to work yet however. Top notch quality as usual.
Am I insane, or does the idea above with using some plastic wedges (felling wedges or similar) look like absolute total genius? Seems to me that it replicates the action of the stable loads for 1/10th of the price. I've been trying really hard to think of why it might not be a good idea, and I haven't come up with anything yet.
I have these "No Drill" Stableloads as well. I installed them myself in a leisurely couple of hours. I've had airbags in the past and didn't want to go that route this time. These seemed like the way to go and didn't have to drill all the way through the spring. I left them engaged for a few days but ride was a bit harsher so I disengaged them. With a floor jack/block and jacking on the hitch, it takes only a couple minutes to turn them in or out. No a big deal. Haven't had a load big enough to put them to work yet however. Top notch quality as usual.
Yeah agreed. I use 2 shims front & back when I pull the 5er. It takes me less than 10 mins to engage/disengage and I do not have to put a jack under the hitch (even with all 3 wedges). I haven't scaled the truck yet, but, plan to this spring. I'm guessing my hitch weight is +/- 3500 lbs. I had air bags on my 2021 F-350 and could never get the truck to ride like I wanted. Too little air - still too much squat. Too much air - too bouncy so I put on Bilstien shocks and that helped some. I like these a lot more than bags. Hope this helps.
Am I insane, or does the idea above with using some plastic wedges (felling wedges or similar) look like absolute total genius? Seems to me that it replicates the action of the stable loads for 1/10th of the price. I've been trying really hard to think of why it might not be a good idea, and I haven't come up with anything yet.
My only concern would be keeping them in place. Stainless steel hose clamps are not very sturdy, they can wear pretty quick with friction.
Yeah, I see your point. I'm not "that kind" of engineer, but I'm trying to think of a simple way to use the locating hole in the lower spring to hold things in place. Without of course, welding a steel shim into that location.
Am I insane, or does the idea above with using some plastic wedges (felling wedges or similar) look like absolute total genius? Seems to me that it replicates the action of the stable loads for 1/10th of the price. I've been trying really hard to think of why it might not be a good idea, and I haven't come up with anything yet.
If you can get them to stay in there...
I tried it, even glued rubber to the wedges to add some traction.
I left My house and before I got to Santa Rosa NM on the way to Silverton I had lost 3 of the 4...
I have a idea for a system that would use cables on each side to hold the "shoe" on the end of the overload but I don't have a need to develop it.
I thought I was buying some ones that they bought and didn't use/want/etc. but when they came in they were obviously not genuine Torklift.
I pondered it for awhile and finally said F it, I am not going to pay the extra $282 to get the genuine article.
Installation went so-soo. There isn't enough 1/2" washers to properly shim the wedges, I had washers so no big deal.
There are ZERO instructions with mine off ebay.
Mag drill and a carbide annular cutter made quick work of the drilling, it took about 5 minutes to drill each spring with securing the drill, clearing the chips and lubricating the bit.
Overall it was a success and I don't forsee any issues. with them.
I haven't tested them yet but I will try and remember to report back.
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