How long does it take for the tranny in everything to re learn once it has gone through weight loss surgery ? And yes I understand common sense no need to hot dog I just wanna know when is the delicate stage over thank you

 

I was told the first 30 miles (mixture of city and highway), but my tune came with preset TCM tuning and didn't have a learning curve at all. But I'm running stock minus EGR/DPF so nothing really changed. The learning curve is when you run the boosted tunes. At least with my EZ Lynk and the codes I received from my shop.

 

what codes are you speaking of ?

 

He probably meant "tunes".

 

Full disclosure, I don't know how these transmissions learn and adapt. But, I've got through a few "tranny relearns" with different trans tunes. My tuner said it could take up to 300 miles, or it could be instant. I've had tunes where the trans would shift fine for 5k miles and then start to shift differently. I'm not convinced they like a delicate stage. It seems like they want to be run through the gears moderately tough. Maybe that helps in sharpening the shifts?

I wish they didn't learn and adapt. Just set it and forget it.

 

It's....



.....

 

Yeah, I meant tunes. Don't drink and type. But I was sober when I said that...
Welcome to the dark side! I can't imagine having to regen again. Glad it all worked out for you sir.

 

Thats is how i felt with my 6.0... was ALOT cheaper way back then. Need to delete mine just havent jumped off the fence

 

I hear most people describe their truck like this after a delete but never go into detail about how it's different. Anyone care to elaborate?

 

On my 6.0 i had better throttle response, part throttle was better acceleration then full acceleration compared to stock. My crew cab swb 4x4 pickup would hang with a 05-08 gt mustang to 100mph and be infront till 70ish. It makes passing and overtaking vehicles on the hiway in a passing senario much safer. On alot of the streches where its 65-75mph 2 lane i could get over step down on the pedal and pass someone. Might be at 100+mph but i would be able to get around and slow back down vs taking along time and a long distance. With this current 6.7 truck stock feels alot like the race tuned power level of the 6.0. This 6.7 pulls hard but once you hit 100mph it shuts off. I can only imagine what a more powerful midrange with less of the torque limiting and no speed limiter would be like. As it is these truck i dont think make anywhere near full stock power till 3rd gear. The power is limited. Which makes sense because looking at the numbers a stock 6.7 should be able to drift from a full romp with nearly 1000ftlbs on tap at what 1300-1600rpms

 

Biggest differences for me are the instant throttle response and the quick shifting. Before the tune when the truck shifted under WOT you would almost feel like you were falling forward in your seat due to the engine defueling during the shift. Now it's instantaneous. Another example, on wet pavement I would sometimes hit the go pedal in a corner and drift a little through the turn. When stock and the trans shifted yours wheels would stop spinning and the truck would jerk as the rear tires regained traction. After tuning the tires continue to spin through the shift.

 

Way to go, kid. Good job! That's all I hear about the first experience after the delete. Good to hear...

 

I had plenty of power stock (to do what I needed) but now I understand what happens when these trucks can breathe. My examples will be pulling a tractor up a grade. The best way I can explain it is the truck would either hold or slowly start to lose speed if I wanted to keep one gear higher stock vs now it keeps pulling. That means either I'm maintaining a faster speed or I'm not pushing it to WOT. Sure, I could drop a gear such as fourth to third and the truck pulls hard stock without an issue and less throttle. I didn't add HP but the truck pulls longer in fourth gear, even fifth on light hills. Boost is a few PSI higher as well on the same hills such as maybe it was maintaining 18 PSI and now I see the boost hold 21 PSI. I've seen 23-24 PSI as well but with my original 2011 VGT, I don't want to push my luck to much. It could push 21 PSI stock but there were times where it wouldn't max out, I don't know what calculations the computer makes to be able to explain the reasons for differences when ambient temps are similar.

What I do know, it's difficult to explain a driving experience in text! Would I delete a problem free truck for the above? Likely not, especially if it's under warranty. I know that +100 HP and 27 PSI of boost is a different discussion but I need reliability for the reason I own this truck, not HP as that'll add too much heat.

 

That's a great explanation of how the truck feels after the delete. It sounds like it feels like it has more power because of the easier breathing by the engine. And yes, I'm sure the drive has to be experienced first hand to get an idea of how much better the truck feels and pulls.

That last sentence right there sums it up nicely. Not every guy, or gal, who wants to delete wants a race tune that blows money and reliability out the tailpipe or smoke stack, depending on your style. Many people here that don't understand why some people delete; that some trucks have issues with emissions and they don't run well but not everyone deletes for the same reason. I, too, believe that you shouldn't delete to chase more mpg because you may not get much.

 

I appreciate your response, very helpful!