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Hey y'all!
I've not been getting fuel to my 1988 e350 when starting up. Problem started on the road, and I've had to use ether to start her up a few times now. When I've used starter spray once, she will run for the rest of the day fine, even when I've turned of the engine and let it sit for a few hours.
So I've decided to change the lift/feed pump. I know I have to take care to have the cam in the right position when installing the new pump.
Can anyone give me some details on how to make sure it's positioned right? Pictures?
And if the cam is not all the way up, how do I move it?
I replaced the mechanical lift pump on my 6.9l IDI. I went to the hardware store and got a stud to replace the bolt between the pump and the block. I actually chewed up a gasket trying to install the lift pump with the original bolt.
To see the eccentric that drives the lift pump use an inspection mirror and have a buddy crank the engine over by hand. When the eccentric moves up you should be able to install the lift pump.
How much fuel will actually run out the feed line when it is removed? When I detached it the fuel would just keep running. Should I do it with an empty tank?
fuel will run out of the supply line until the tank is empty.
i plug the line as soon as i take it off the lift pump.
what i do when replacing the pump, is tilt the pump up with the actuator arm down and stick it in the hole, then push the pump level to the bock only when it touches. this will ensure you get the arm under the cam eccentric..
I've changed tons of mechanical fuel pumps and have yet to install one on the wrong side of the lobe, in order to do that it wouldn't line up worth a damn and you'd probably have to force it together with the bolts. Basically although it is something to think about its honestly not as common as people claim.
Like tjc said plug the fuel line with a bolt or something. I'd recommend you change that short piece of rubber fuel line too, its 3/8's and make sure you buy diesel rated fuel line. It's only three or four inches so one foot will do it twice if you mess up.
I always put a thin layer of silicone on each side of the gasket as I've had several leak if I didnt, mostly due to poorly manufactured fuel pumps. Try and buy a good one from Napa or something like that. I've had really poor luck with the O'Reilly ones. Napa is the same price so I went with there's this time and it seemed a lot stiffer and better quality.
Because your issue mainly seems to be starting, I'm guessing when cold? I would read the glow plug sticky at the top of the page and make sure there working properly, if you replace only buy motorcraft/beru plugs, the cheap ones break off and end up stuck into the piston.
Thanks!
I've ordered the pump from Napa and getting it tomorrow. Do you also know the proper procedure for releasing air after the new pump goes in? Use the Schrader valve?
To bleed the air from the lines just depress the schreder valve and crank over the engine until you get a solid stream of fuel from the valve (no spitting). You shouldn't have to do this when you replace the fuel pump though since you will only loose a little bit of fuel between the lift pump and the filter.
So I got the new lift pump in, and still no start.
Getting fuel to filter and to injection pump. It seems like I'm only getting fuel to about 4 of the injectors when I removed them to bleed.
What could be causing this?
Also the glow plug relay is clicking, so it's not giving power to the glow plugs. I'm in Cali though, and it's hella warm outside so I feel the glow plugs shouldn't be giving me problems like this.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
You can also bleed the injectors. All you have to do is crack the fuel line on top of the injector and crank the engine. Fuel should spit out of the fitting when you loosen it. Make sure you wear eye protection when you do this!
You'd be surprised. Even in favorable conditions these engines like to have glow plugs.
If all else fails tighten all injector lines, kick key on to run, wait a minute so glow plugs will be cold and give it a sniff of ether/starting fluid (really doesn't take much) and it should light off.
If it won't even cough with the ether you need to bleed you injector lines more.
i have found when changing lift pumps that as long as the filter, injector pump, lines, and injectors still have fuel in them the little missed between pump and filter head will not make a difference in starting without bleeding.
i just fire it up and hold off idle for a minute or so. you will know when all is good, it will be running good, stumble for a second or two as it passed what little air is there, and go back to running good.
it can then be shut down without worry.
if the system is dry, then i fill the filter and crank for 5 seconds, pull and refill filter, and repeat two more times. then crack two lines and bleed out the air.
i usually get it to fire and be running rough before i get to crack the lines
Anyone know what this is? Sits on the side of the injector pump Some kind of vacuum and/or oil pump?
Connected to injector pump Tubes go up her
Tubes go to a connection point with several other tubes.
When I hit the pedal I can hear air coming thorough the tube connection. I've tried to close the air off with hand, and the sound stops, but engine still won't start up.
that is the vacuum regulator valve for the C-6 trans.. IT IS EXTREMELY FRAGILE AND MADE OF UNOBTANIUM. IF YOU BREAK IT, YOU ARE SCREWED AND THE TRANS WILL NOT SHIFT.
they are impossible to find new. and almost impossible to find used.
the top line goes to the vacuum tree, the bottom line goes to the modulator on the trans.
it will also have no effect on the engine starting or not starting.
