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If I had to chance a guess, I'd say exhaust pipe is cheaper than filler hose
Lol that's what I was thinking. Wonder if it would be a pain 5o scrap the saddle tank and run one rear mounted 38 gallon tank and just use exhaust pipe for the longer run and hoses to connect.
Part of me thinks I'd have a problem with fuel flow and kick back even if I run a vent hose.
If you were to run the pipe between the tire & bed (not the safest) you may be able to keep a good pitch.
The safest is if you can run the pipe inside the frame rail but I don't think you will have the needed pitch.
Dave ----
If you were to run the pipe between the tire & bed (not the safest) you may be able to keep a good pitch.
The safest is if you can run the pipe inside the frame rail but I don't think you will have the needed pitch.
Dave ----
And that's the thing to run it where its not easy to get to so no one tries to cut into it the line would be level with the frame just about and thus would have to curve up to connect to the rear tank which will create a low spot allowing fuel to stay in the filler.
And that's the thing to run it where its not easy to get to so no one tries to cut into it the line would be level with the frame just about and thus would have to curve up to connect to the rear tank which will create a low spot allowing fuel to stay in the filler.
Could but I hate the thought of cutting into my fiberglass fender. LMC does sell the flareside fuel doors just not the pockets. So in theory I could fully convert mine into a dual tank setup. But I still hate the thought of cutting into my fiberglass fenders considering how there are no replacements for it.
So I was having crazy thoughts myself. DOT says something like can only hold 38 gallons of fuel. Not that they'd be able to tell if I had a 38 gallon rear and a 19 gallon midship tank. But what I had thought about doing was running the 38 gallon rear by itself. Remove the plumbing to the midship tank, except maybe the line to the carbon can. Then inside the fuel door, attach a switch that runs to a small electric fuel pump(trucks got a mechanical) that has the hose dropped down the filler neck, or mounted underneath and has the end run up next to the filler neck, so it's all contained right there. And use that tank to haul one type of fuel, whether it be non ethanol for the lawn equipment, or diesel for the tractors. No more messing with fuel cans, and no need to fill the bed up with a storage tank.
Could but I hate the thought of cutting into my fiberglass fender. LMC does sell the flareside fuel doors just not the pockets. So in theory I could fully convert mine into a dual tank setup. But I still hate the thought of cutting into my fiberglass fenders considering how there are no replacements for it.
I had no issues cutting a hole in mine.
Then again mine was not all shiny like yours.
Dave - - - -
How about coming straight over the frame with a rubber fill hose and then go up and back a bit towards the top rear of the fender. Drilling a hole in the fender to mount a solid piece of fuel pipe with a gas cap fitting on the top end and then put a nice chrome moon cap on it with no door. Kinda like the old pick-ups behind the seat tank spout and cap. You avoid putting in a door that way...but you have a hole to repair if you ever decide to do something else. I'd make it close fitting so that the chrome cap when tight is very close to the fender. Looking a bit like a motorcycle gas cap or a hot rod gas cap.
How about coming straight over the frame with a rubber fill hose and then go up and back a bit towards the top rear of the fender. Drilling a hole in the fender to mount a solid piece of fuel pipe with a gas cap fitting on the top end and then put a nice chrome moon cap on it with no door. Kinda like the old pick-ups behind the seat tank spout and cap. You avoid putting in a door that way...but you have a hole to repair if you ever decide to do something else. I'd make it close fitting so that the chrome cap when tight is very close to the fender. Looking a bit like a motorcycle gas cap or a hot rod gas cap.
The think is he dose not want to cut a hole in the fender.
If he was to cut a hole in the fender then I would go with grafting in a 2nd flare side door like I did.
How it's done LOL
Dave ----
When you add a hydraulic scissors to a pickup truck bed to make it a dump bed, you have to take the filler off anyway. Most people just shorten it and run it in the wheel well. There is room for it in there and you just reach in at the filling station and take the cap off and fill it up. It may just get a little nasty from all the road dirt getting on it.
I had no issues cutting a hole in mine.
Then again mine was not all shiny like yours.
Dave - - - -
lol Mines not shiny it has rust, peeling paint, and worn paint needs to be repainted but with how hard fiberglass fenders are to find I am afraid of screwing my fender up and then being forced to have to get a style side bed.
The think is he dose not want to cut a hole in the fender.
If he was to cut a hole in the fender then I would go with grafting in a 2nd flare side door like I did.
How it's done LOL
Dave ----
Yes sir...you did it according to Hoyle. But he's scared to cut a big square hole...so suggested drilling a smaller hole to fit the filler pipe he chooses. Sounds like that might not work for him either.
When you add a hydraulic scissors to a pickup truck bed to make it a dump bed, you have to take the filler off anyway. Most people just shorten it and run it in the wheel well. There is room for it in there and you just reach in at the filling station and take the cap off and fill it up. It may just get a little nasty from all the road dirt getting on it.
That's a solution for sure. And to keep the cap end from getting dirty make a remove-able boot to cover the end and keep it clean!
Or another option would be to make a removeable section of stained wood in the bed and fill through the bed. All ideas I will play around with.
Truck will go to get body work done and have the back window pulled out to replace the worn out gasket as well as to make it easier to two tone the truck back like it was. If I decide to go with a second filler door it would be the time to do it before I take it for body work and paint then they can blend it all in if need be to make it look right.
I think if you held your head right you could run the exhaust pipe with just enough slope to make it work. And the rest is just flex hose, shouldn't be too much of a headache to get it sorted.
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