New Member needing help in Trani/Rear end quandary
#1
New Member needing help in Trani/Rear end quandary
Hello All!
I am trying to find a solution to a complex problem. I am trying to find a combination of rear end gears and Transmission that will allow me to get my old ford truck (1959 F-100) up to freeway speeds (70-75) without blowing up?
Current rear end gears are 389 in a 9-inch rear end.
Transmission is a manual 4 on the floor. Designation "F" on the vin tag.
Engine is a 223 6 cylinder with 4,000 rpm.
Any help or insight into solving this is GREATLY appreciated!
I am trying to find a solution to a complex problem. I am trying to find a combination of rear end gears and Transmission that will allow me to get my old ford truck (1959 F-100) up to freeway speeds (70-75) without blowing up?
Current rear end gears are 389 in a 9-inch rear end.
Transmission is a manual 4 on the floor. Designation "F" on the vin tag.
Engine is a 223 6 cylinder with 4,000 rpm.
Any help or insight into solving this is GREATLY appreciated!
#4
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#6
Here are the following Engines RPM's with varying rear gears.
Rear gear Engine RPM @75 MPH
3.70 3330
3.50 3150
3.25 3000
3.00 2700
2.75 2475
Ideally a swap to a trans with and OD would be the best a solution or increasing tire size with a rear gear swap.
#7
I am trying to find a solution to a complex problem. I am trying to find a combination of rear end gears and Transmission that will allow me to get my old ford truck (1959 F-100) up to freeway speeds (70-75) without blowing up?
Current rear end gears are 3.89 in a 9-inch rear end. Transmission is a manual 4 on the floor. Designation "F" on the vin tag. Engine is a 223 6 cylinder with 4,000 rpm.
No such thing as a T-18 5 speed.
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#8
#9
I have the 292 V-8, not the 223. However the concept should work fine. I changed my rear gear ratio from 3.70:1 to a 3.00:1 and now use my Granny gear as a real 1st gear and 4th gear is comfortable for highway speeds. The 223 doesn't have the same hp so maybe some else here has done similar with that engine and can comment. If not you may want to try a gear set closer to 3.25:1 instead of the 3.00:1. The 3.89 you have would make you truck quick to start out, but top speed will certainly be limited. Good luck.
#10
#11
Thank you all for the help with this problem. I must admit this problem is at the upper limit of my knowledge. If I swap my rear end gears from 389 to 300 will I be able to use my same transmission (4sp manual type F)? I have swapped the front drum brakes for disc brakes in anticipation of getting the truck to higher speeds.
#12
Only the gears change. Your transmission and drive shaft stay the same.
You can get an entire 3 member assembly from various suppliers, or have the gears changed in your existing one. Gears are about $200. Labor varies, expect $500. It's a bit of a tedious job, requiring some special tools. Some folks DIY, and some of the are back wonder why it whines.
While your at it, new bearings all around and your rear axle will be good for another50 60 years.
You can get an entire 3 member assembly from various suppliers, or have the gears changed in your existing one. Gears are about $200. Labor varies, expect $500. It's a bit of a tedious job, requiring some special tools. Some folks DIY, and some of the are back wonder why it whines.
While your at it, new bearings all around and your rear axle will be good for another
#13
Thank you all for the help with this problem. I must admit this problem is at the upper limit of my knowledge. If I swap my rear end gears from 389 to 300 will I be able to use my same transmission (4sp manual type F)? I have swapped the front drum brakes for disc brakes in anticipation of getting the truck to higher speeds.
#14
Sometimes you can find ford 9" differentials in your local junk yard and just swat the entire 9" differential. I used my original yoke and installed a new seal. You need to know if it is a 28 spline or a 31 spline (number of splines on the axles). The 28 spline are more common. I found mine on ebay. It is not that big of a job to swap differentials. Remove tires, brake drums and pull the axles. Drain the gear oil, unbolt the driveshaft, unbolt the differential and remove. On the salvaged differential, replace the differential seal and swap the yokes if necessary, new gasket. reassemble and fill with gear oil.
When driving you will need to start out in granny gear instead of 2nd gear for normal driving.
When driving you will need to start out in granny gear instead of 2nd gear for normal driving.
#15
Thank you all for the help with this problem. I must admit this problem is at the upper limit of my knowledge. If I swap my rear end gears from 389 to 300 will I be able to use my same transmission (4sp manual type F)? I have swapped the front drum brakes for disc brakes in anticipation of getting the truck to higher speeds.
The rear differential ratio determines how far you rear tires travel with each rotation of the drive shaft. In simple terms, the lower the number, the farther the rear tire travels. So if you change from a 4.89 to a 3.25 or 3.00, since both numbers are lower, thus the rear tire travels farther with each revolution of the drive shaft, thus the truck goes faster as a given engine RPM. In more detail, today your engine has to rotate 4.89 times for your rear tires to rotate once (4.89:1) and if you change the to say a 3.00:1, the engine only has to rotate 3 times to make the tires rotate once.
This will however slow you acceleration quite a bit, so that is why you will have to start out in granny gear to help offset the acceleration loss. You will also have to down shift to third more often when doing things like climbing a hill.