Input and advice greatly appreciated what did you do with removing these bolts to avoid them from snapping during removal .And if they do snap what did you do? Going to be removing it and have the kit for full removal but just trying to think I had of what ifs. Thank you

 

PB Bl;aster.
Why are you removing it in the first place? If you dont know how to remove a broken bolt than i suggest you leave your truck alone Just saying.

 

Haven't begun the process yet just thinking ahead ,I know if they snap to tap and die it out but I want to avoid it what are people's techniques they've used for removing this I necessary thing . I've heard of people if they've snapped a bolts they don't even bother that they just twist the block off plate a little bit clockwise and drill new holes with treads . Just want to do it right and keep it as clean as possible

 

I used kroil, amazing stuff. I sprayed the bolts down every time I shut the truck down in the garage, once they cooled a bit but still had some heat, for about two weeks before I touched them. Figured it would creep into the threads as it cooled. Take the easy to access egr pipe off first if you are doing the full set of blocker plates, it will give you a little more room to maneuver. Came out super easy after they initially broke loose. My truck only had 22,000km thou, that's as long as I could stand that bull**** emission system, has run absolutely amazing ever since. Do your research on tunes thou and go with a big name tuner that has done thousands of powerstroke tunes, not some local "expert" diesel shop that some local recommends. I also pre soaked the egt probe I was planning to remove out of the exhaust for the egr plate reading. Good tuning is the single most important piece to the puzzle imho. Flash your delete tune prior to removing everything, unplug a sensor on your exhaust, and start the truck and make sure it idles and doesn't throw any codes, but don't drive it like this, then remove everything once you know the tuning is good. Also hook a battery tender up prior to flashing to make sure batteries are tip top, as low voltage during flashing can cause problems

 

I just noticed that no limit cells in EGR delete pass through plate . Does it matter the kid that I have does not have the pass through plate ?

 

This is the one I noticed from no limit and it actually allows it to flow through i don't see it being a big issue what is your input?

 

If you are going to do it, get the pass-thru plate. Don’t dead head those coolant passages that would normally run through the cooler in a stock setup.

 

Flow thru for sure. And pay an experienced mechanic to do this entire job. Worth it.

 

Trick is to start spraying them before you plan on doing the job with something. I like Kroil. About a week before, I would start spraying them. I’ve had good luck that way. I’ll spray em, smack the head of them with a hammer and a chisel, then ease them out with a 1/4” ratchet and socket with a swivel to make sure I’m straight down on the head. If they get tight on the way out, I’ll tighten them then loosen while applying Kroil. They usually ease out that way. On really high mileage ones, I’ll get em cherry red with a MAP gas torch, then let em cool off. Smack em, then start the loosening process.

Ive snapped one before. Easy outs/reverse bits were no help, so I tore the top end down and installed a new exhaust manifold ($40). Won’t break another one.