it seems most here are hard core original equipment style owners.
is there a site that gets into more customization with complete modern frames, engines, and drivetrains?
i want my slick to look like a slick but drive like a new truck. that's not possible with I-beams and drum brakes.
thanks

 

I see this site as being very heavy on the customizations. Frame swaps - Axle swaps - Body swaps. I just read some of these new postings this morning. Guy is swapping his 1964 4x4 (not realizing how rare it is apparently) to a 1977 frame. This is actually illegal in many states and vehicles are confiscated every day here because of people doing similar in locations where it is not legal to mix two vehicles together to make one. But, you live you learn.

I was looking for a site where they get into the details of originality a bit more. I've seen enough Crown Vic swaps to last me a lifetime. Seen one swap you've seen them all. Of course, other people will say you've seen one correct restoration you've seen them all. Touche - and to each their own. But, I've seen about 2 restorations on here that came pretty close to original looking.

Funny how we see this site so differently than each other....

Chad

 

i want a Roadster Shop style frame.
don't like the chopped up notched frames or junk yard front suspension.
thanks anyway.

 

They do look like they build a quality product. Maybe talk to them and see if their 1967-1972 chassis would fit your truck. Assuming you have a 1965 2WD you might be in luck.

1967-72 Ford F100 Truck chassis Roadster Shop

Looks like $10K for the spec chassis and $17K for the Fast Track Chassis.

1967-72 Ford F100 Truck FAST TRACK chassis - Roadster Shop Roadster Shop

I sort of doubt a stock bed would work with these chassis.

Chad

 

Totally legal to perform on a registered classic car FYI. Where you can get into trouble is failing to declare so during possession transfer. Also, having this rare truck, people aren't pounding down my door making offers, and it sure drives like crap, so the frame swap is the cheapest way to get it drive-able.

 

Who has 11K to 17K to spend just on the chassis???
Then you have to have a motor & trany to push the frame around.
You going to put a rat rod body on it? I guess not so now you are looking for good body & panels to start with and go from there.
Cant have a crappy bench seat and with good seats you then need to up grade the rest.
And that is just a quick parts off the top of my head so what do you thing you are up to at this point close to 100K in parts only.

Who is doing the work a shop at how much an hour and how long will it take?
Now you know why you don't see a lot of full out customs because the average person just does not have that kind of money.

Oh as was posted "I sort of doubt a stock bed would work with these chassis". Looks like an over priced CV frame to me LOL
The fast track is using GM front end parts. At least with a CV chassis it is all Ford and guys looking to do this have the money for the CV chassis not the other one.
I would do the CV chassis way before the other because of $$ and I can do all the work my self start to finish in my garage.
That is just my .02
Dave ----
ps when you start this project do post it here as we would love to see it happen.

 

I know in CT where I came from you are right.
Show proof you own all the parts with titles and bill of sale, file paper work & pictures for a composite car / truck with DMV and wait for a date for you to tow it, cant be on the ground, to the main DMV office for inspection and hope all checks out and you get the OK to get plates.
So if you have all the proper papers for the truck & say CV you could do a frame swap and be ok with the composite safety check.
I have no clue what it would be like here in NC as I have only been here a few years so far.
Dave ----

 

i thought the track width was wider on 70s truck? i want it narrow enough to clear tires with low stance.
i have a straight rust free truck with 351w gas hog, auto, and front end from 74 but it still drives like crap.
it's almost too nice to convert but i'm not satisfied with it.
i want bags, ac, late model drive train, and good handling but i won't use a triton or turbo engine.
wish i could find a less perfect truck to convert but haven't been able to.
money is not a problem.
i drove the ford in high school is the reason i want to fix it for my 50 year reunion.
if not for that i would fix my other truck(57 chevy) this way.

 

Your best bet then is to get on the phone with these manufacturers and tell them what you want and see what they have to offer. Call Art Morrison Enterprises, Roadster Shop, Detroit Speed, or Rob at No Limit. I think you’ll find that every one of them can supply you a full chassis for your truck. Or get out to a large show (find the closest Goodguys show) as all these guys tend to have displays and reps on site if the show is big enough. As stated, the stock bed will then likely need a hump in the middle or raise the entire floor to clear the pumpkin.

 

i hope I have the facts straight here. You are seeking to go from 4x4 to 2 whl dr? The 70's dentside frame 2 whl dr is the same width in the front. It was the rear frame area that was made wider to fit a gas tank in the rear frame rails. There is a company I believe called QA1 suspension that just put out a front clip with the proper track width for the slicks. Keep in mind the proper V.I.N. for your truck is on the frame NOT the door so if you chuck the frame make sure you have a game plan.

 

33 1/2" width between the inner frame rails behind the cab: 1961/72 F100/350; 1973/77 F250 4WD (High Boys); 1973/79 F350 Regular Cabs on the 140" wheelbase & Cab & Chassis.

37 1/2" width between the inner frame rails behind the cab: 1973/79 F100 2WD/4WD & F250 2WD; 1975/79 F150 2WD/4WD; 1977/79 F250 4WD (not High Boys), 1973/79 F350 except as noted above.

 

no, 2 wheel drive short bed

 

Getting away from I beams to drive like a new truck sounds a little weird at first since that's what the new 2wd F250's, 350's, and 450's have...twin I beams but I get what you mean. You want a sport car ride.

Not sure you thought out the engine choices too much. You can build a 351w (or a 352 for that matter) to get the same mpg as a modern engine of close to the same displacement. Get the compression in the mid 9's, modern ring pack, roller cam (which helps plus allows for modern oil which also helps), well tuned carb, and optimized ignition timing. Don't forget to optimize the gearing.

To get better mpg when cruising empty, you need less displacement and then it's nice to have something like variable cam timing or a turbo to get the power back when needed. On the other hand, a well formulated older engine (390 for instance) will get the same mpg as a new engine (3.5 ecoboost for instance) if you hook up a 5 ton camper to trucks having either engine.

So if better mpg is the goal and the plan is to ride around empty (which is all you can do with the above mentioned custom frames) then you about have to go for lower displacement and consider a turbo if you want similar power that a 351w, FE, etc can produce with a more modern build.

 

My bad. Poster #2 made reference to another builder. Your modern suspension cruiser will look great in my books!

 

i rebuilt a 351w with all new original style parts but it's a gas hog in a bronco. i used original carb, intake, and exhaust. would new intake and carb help mileage? unlike a 302, i like the way a 351w is made inside. i don't need much power and won't be pulling anything. i even thought about fuel injection but it won't be a ford motor if i do that.

this will be a semi show truck and won't be hauling anything but pretty women.

hey ranger...sounds like you're a bass fisherman. i'm hard core merc too.