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Hello everybody I have two questions to ask and need help on.
I just bought a slidding door (from a '91)from a wrekers yard since the original was dented when i got it ('89), The power lock did not function once installed so I cleaned up the contacts (the ones that look like big rivets) and now it works but when I press "lock" it unlocks! and viceversa?? would it be so simple as to switch the wires around in the contacts?
Second question is about front springs replacement. I'm replacing mine and the haynes manual say that after replacement the vehicle shoul be taken to have the aligment checked. Is this necessary ? I've just had it aligned when they replaced the upper ball joint 3 weeks ago and I don't wan't to pay another $70.00 to do it again.
By the way the donor van was in great shape just brought in with a bad tranny so I've taken the rear window, the hood (was in better shape than mine)and the slidding door, all for $200.00!!
The Bench seats (2)brown/light brown are in clean and in great shape they almost look like they were never used I was tempted to buy them $150.00 for both but decided not to because mine are still in great shape.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions you might have, this is a great forum, it has saved me a lot of money and trouble since I've found it. Thanks.
It would be preferable to change to wiring on the actuator rather than the contact buttons.
As for the spring change out, personally I would see no pressing reason to have it re-aligned. This assumes you just release the spindle at the upper ball joint and allow the lower control arm to swing down, dropping the spring out. If you remove the lower control arm (which you shouldn't have to do) then you may need to have another alignment done.
BIG Thanks Aerocolorado, as it turns out I did it as the haynes manual says to do it and I sweared,cussed,sobbed and kicked trying to get that #@!$% aligned so I could get the bolts back in. It took me 3 afternoons and evenings up to last night when I finally was able to get them in, And that was only the driver side!! Do Not beleive everything you read in those books!! they make it sound simple enough !! But what you said makes sense thinking about it, as the procedure you mention makes a lot more sense in releasing the spindle to drop the arm. After last night I swore to myself (and my wife) to let an expert do the other side. But you got me thinking and maybe if i have enough courage left I may try to do the other side
I know exactly how you feel, having placed my trust in those manuals for first time procedures. I tried doing the spring removal with spring compressors by the book and found it as frustrating an experience as you did. I had to redo everything a second time due to a faulty rebuilt steering rack. The second time around I just put the van jack stands under frame members, removed the brake caliper, wiring it out of the way, put a hydraulic jack under the lower control arm and jacked slightly to allow the jack to take the strain. Remove the pinch bolt from the upper control arm, separate the upper arm from the spindle then let the jack down slowly. The spring will fall right out. Replacement is the reverse. Mark the spring location beforehand to ensure the end of the spring is returned to the recessed area in the lower control arm. There are rubber spring isolators on the bottom and top of the spring. The upper one sometimes pulls partially loose and hangs up in the recess. Pull it out and put it on top of the spring before replacing to ensure a level fit.
To tell you the truth I don't know which ones to get. I've seen quite a few on ebay but I'm really hesitant to get them without knowing if they will be any help. do you have any suggestions?