Looking at 2005 F-150
#1
Looking at 2005 F-150
Hello, I am looking to buy a 2005 F-150 to do minor hauling and some off roading. It will also be my daily driver. I live in Pennsylvania so I know rust is the car killer as it was to my Explorer. Other than the frame is there anywhere else to check for rust that you guys know are common on these trucks? Also, are there any model year problems I should keep an eye out for? Thanks for any and all help/suggestions. The truck is a 2005 F-150 XLT with 64,000 miles.
#2
Where to begin
Wheel wells, behind the plastic wheel arch moulding. Bottoms of the quarter panels and doors. Floor boards and around the glass. Roof around the third brake light.
As for other issues, what motor/tranny combo is in it? Also, how much are they asking for it? 64k is awfully low mileage on a 2005.
If it has the 5.4L 3V motor there will be a host of issues around the timing components that you'll want to consider. Also, the fuel injectors are known to leak into the cylinders on the '05', causing hydrolock and bending connecting rods. Spark plugs issues abound, as well as transmission issues with the 4r75w/e models.
As for other issues, what motor/tranny combo is in it? Also, how much are they asking for it? 64k is awfully low mileage on a 2005.
If it has the 5.4L 3V motor there will be a host of issues around the timing components that you'll want to consider. Also, the fuel injectors are known to leak into the cylinders on the '05', causing hydrolock and bending connecting rods. Spark plugs issues abound, as well as transmission issues with the 4r75w/e models.
#3
#4
I have the same year/make/model as well as color, truck. Definitely put some money aside and prepare yourself for issues. We all know how expensive rust work can be so if you got a good body man let him know. Keep up on maintenance and listen for noises. It’ll treat you right if you invest some money into it. If you’re at all concerned about dumping more money, I suggest just walk away from it. I paid $10k for mine at 98k miles and ended up putting around $6k into it. Half went into upgrading/modding out the performance of the motor and the rest went into spraying the bed and rust proofing. Listen to Rumble phish and you’ll be good. You’re at that mileage point where you can prevent some disasters from happening.
#5
They're asking way too much
I do love the bullnose F150's ('04 - '08), but you have to be realistic about this truck. The 5.4L 3V Triton has a host of known issues . A quick Google search will tell you all about it. The '05 in particular had a nasty habit of "leaking" fuel injectors, which would cause a serious hydrolock condition that could end up bending a connecting rod (several threads about it on this very forum).
With only 64,000 miles on a 14 year old truck, I'm thinking there's a reason it was sold or traded to a used car dealership (red flag). If your buddy is willing to look at it, I'd definitely have him do so. But keep in mind that there isn't much he'll be able to tell without at least pulling a valve cover off of it.
Bottom line for me would be that I wouldn't come close to paying $10g's for a 14 year old truck, no matter how nice. If it's rust free I'd offer $7500, tops. You'd be better off finding a truck with a solid body/frame (no rust) with a blown motor and dropping a remanufactured motor in it.
With only 64,000 miles on a 14 year old truck, I'm thinking there's a reason it was sold or traded to a used car dealership (red flag). If your buddy is willing to look at it, I'd definitely have him do so. But keep in mind that there isn't much he'll be able to tell without at least pulling a valve cover off of it.
Bottom line for me would be that I wouldn't come close to paying $10g's for a 14 year old truck, no matter how nice. If it's rust free I'd offer $7500, tops. You'd be better off finding a truck with a solid body/frame (no rust) with a blown motor and dropping a remanufactured motor in it.
#6
FYI...
New fuel injectors are @ $100 each, and you'll need 8 of them so figure that'd cost you @ $1000-1200 for a complete job (unless you do it yourself).
Complete timing components would run @ $1300-1500 for everything, and about $1500 for the labor. If it needs it be sure to only use OEM parts. Trust us on that. Also, it's a good idea (and highly recommended) to upgrade the oil pump to a high volume/high pressure unit at the same time, as the stock unit is woefully weak.
Spark plugs are notorious for breaking off, and should be changed at around 65000 miles, so it's due. Swapping plugs on this engine is not a simple task, and will take around 3-4 hours if all goes well. If not, it could take up to 7-8 hours making it a fairly expensive job. I've read stories from members here of spark plugs jobs costing upwards of $800-1000 due to the labor involved.
Sorry, I'm not trying to scare you off of this truck. I'm just trying to point out the reality of what you're getting into.
New fuel injectors are @ $100 each, and you'll need 8 of them so figure that'd cost you @ $1000-1200 for a complete job (unless you do it yourself).
Complete timing components would run @ $1300-1500 for everything, and about $1500 for the labor. If it needs it be sure to only use OEM parts. Trust us on that. Also, it's a good idea (and highly recommended) to upgrade the oil pump to a high volume/high pressure unit at the same time, as the stock unit is woefully weak.
Spark plugs are notorious for breaking off, and should be changed at around 65000 miles, so it's due. Swapping plugs on this engine is not a simple task, and will take around 3-4 hours if all goes well. If not, it could take up to 7-8 hours making it a fairly expensive job. I've read stories from members here of spark plugs jobs costing upwards of $800-1000 due to the labor involved.
Sorry, I'm not trying to scare you off of this truck. I'm just trying to point out the reality of what you're getting into.
#7
Where did the truck live ,if up north you know you are going to have rust issues. The 5.4 has bad orig plugs that break off in head . It can be handled but it takes labor and tools , Are you a diy er ? If you have to pay for all labor this engine is not for you . If you diy have some extra money available for parts you can work it out . A lot depends on luck and how oil changes were handled on this truck .Sludge ,condensation short trips in cold climates really screw this engine up ,you must change oil each 5k or 3 months
You will need to inspect fpdm on rear axle . If its not on stand offs it will have to be reaplaced . Besides all the fluid changes that should be done there will be timing issues unless you are lucky . Between 120k and 160k usually a full timing job of $1400 in parts is the ticket .All the parts have been improved but you must use oem except the oil pump .
If you are diy then there is lots of help here but parts are not cheap and fixes are labor intensive.
Most mech will tell you they hate this engine .Its hard to cut the labor time down .
You will need to inspect fpdm on rear axle . If its not on stand offs it will have to be reaplaced . Besides all the fluid changes that should be done there will be timing issues unless you are lucky . Between 120k and 160k usually a full timing job of $1400 in parts is the ticket .All the parts have been improved but you must use oem except the oil pump .
If you are diy then there is lots of help here but parts are not cheap and fixes are labor intensive.
Most mech will tell you they hate this engine .Its hard to cut the labor time down .
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rich gill
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
12-07-2020 05:31 PM