Catalytic Converters Bad
#1
03-19-2019, 09:45 PM
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Catalytic Converters Bad
Hello everyone,
I’ve got a 2006 Ford Escape Limited v6 (162K on rebuilt transmission) and recently all 3 cat’s went out. I’ve been pricing parts online and pretty much have everything that I need before I order. However I was wondering what is the trick to getting the exhaust manifolds off? They look extremely tight. I didnt know if there is some trick or steps that you would suggest. Everything else looks extremely easy I just wanted to get feed back before tackling this.
Also what modifications has anyone done? This is my mom’s car but she said If I buy the parts I can have it (since she’s getting a new one). She’s only had the basics done, (I”ve replaced the brakes, alt, starter, battery). She rebuilt the transmission a few yrs ago (still under warranty), recently i replaced the serpentine belt but that’s been it. I just didn’t know if anyone has done any upgrades on them.
Thanks
I’ve got a 2006 Ford Escape Limited v6 (162K on rebuilt transmission) and recently all 3 cat’s went out. I’ve been pricing parts online and pretty much have everything that I need before I order. However I was wondering what is the trick to getting the exhaust manifolds off? They look extremely tight. I didnt know if there is some trick or steps that you would suggest. Everything else looks extremely easy I just wanted to get feed back before tackling this.
Also what modifications has anyone done? This is my mom’s car but she said If I buy the parts I can have it (since she’s getting a new one). She’s only had the basics done, (I”ve replaced the brakes, alt, starter, battery). She rebuilt the transmission a few yrs ago (still under warranty), recently i replaced the serpentine belt but that’s been it. I just didn’t know if anyone has done any upgrades on them.
Thanks
#2
03-19-2019, 11:28 PM
I did the manifolds recently on my DIL's 2002 3.0 (same engine and ancillary layout as yours IIRC).
Make sure you get the right manifolds. Remember the A/F and O2 sensors (mine only had the pre-cat A/F sensors, yours probably has a total of 4, two A/F pre-cat and two O2 post cat before the Y-pipe on each manifold). Make sure you get manifolds with the correct number and location of sensor plugs. I received a front manifold with Bothe A/F and O2 sensor threaded bungs but a rear manifold with only the A/F sensor location. Easy enough for me to plug the extra location with a threaded bung, less easy if you get a manifold without a sensor location you need.
I removed the exhaust behind the Flexi pipe, the crossmember and exhaust Y-pipe.
The front manifold came out OK using a short ratchet and a long 13mm socket on the manifold stud nuts. ALL of mine unscrewed the studs vs the nuts coming off, I refitted using them like bolts but you have to take care and get the nut off at least one stud if at all possible to hold the gasket in place/aligned while you use both hands to locate the new manifold. Lots of working by feel. I found the manifold could be removed by rotating it around the power steering pump but I didn't need to disturb the pump or hoses.
The rear manifold is more complex, I removed the alternator, which necessitated removing the right driveshaft and intermediate driveshaft (as one piece), that runs across the back of the engine. With those two out of the way the rear manifold comes out ok, same working by feel largely as with the front manifold.
Luckily we don't have salted roads in my part of NZ so I had no problems with any of the exhaust studs/nuts.
Make sure you get the right manifolds. Remember the A/F and O2 sensors (mine only had the pre-cat A/F sensors, yours probably has a total of 4, two A/F pre-cat and two O2 post cat before the Y-pipe on each manifold). Make sure you get manifolds with the correct number and location of sensor plugs. I received a front manifold with Bothe A/F and O2 sensor threaded bungs but a rear manifold with only the A/F sensor location. Easy enough for me to plug the extra location with a threaded bung, less easy if you get a manifold without a sensor location you need.
I removed the exhaust behind the Flexi pipe, the crossmember and exhaust Y-pipe.
The front manifold came out OK using a short ratchet and a long 13mm socket on the manifold stud nuts. ALL of mine unscrewed the studs vs the nuts coming off, I refitted using them like bolts but you have to take care and get the nut off at least one stud if at all possible to hold the gasket in place/aligned while you use both hands to locate the new manifold. Lots of working by feel. I found the manifold could be removed by rotating it around the power steering pump but I didn't need to disturb the pump or hoses.
The rear manifold is more complex, I removed the alternator, which necessitated removing the right driveshaft and intermediate driveshaft (as one piece), that runs across the back of the engine. With those two out of the way the rear manifold comes out ok, same working by feel largely as with the front manifold.
Luckily we don't have salted roads in my part of NZ so I had no problems with any of the exhaust studs/nuts.
#3
03-20-2019, 11:44 PM
#4
03-21-2019, 08:14 PM
Hotshot
#5
03-21-2019, 11:15 PM
Join Date: Mar 2015
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Thank you everyone for your help.
As for how do I know it’s all 3. I took it to 2 different places and both came back the same saying all 3 are bad. 1 was the ford dealership so then I took it to a friend of a friend’s place and he verified that all 3 did go out. There is lacking power. When you step on the gas from a stop or merge on the freeway you have no power especially going up hills. Or if it does start out find it has the hardest time trying to shift. When it finally does shift there aren’t any problems on flat roads but as soon as you hit a hill or an incline all power is shot and as you try to push on the gas no power and speed drop drastically. I read about them online that typically on the escapes they last about 90K and it’s not uncommon for all 3 to go out evidentially in the 2004-2006 years.
These forums are so helpful adn I can’t thank you all enough for input and advice and suggestions.
Thank you again!!
As for how do I know it’s all 3. I took it to 2 different places and both came back the same saying all 3 are bad. 1 was the ford dealership so then I took it to a friend of a friend’s place and he verified that all 3 did go out. There is lacking power. When you step on the gas from a stop or merge on the freeway you have no power especially going up hills. Or if it does start out find it has the hardest time trying to shift. When it finally does shift there aren’t any problems on flat roads but as soon as you hit a hill or an incline all power is shot and as you try to push on the gas no power and speed drop drastically. I read about them online that typically on the escapes they last about 90K and it’s not uncommon for all 3 to go out evidentially in the 2004-2006 years.
These forums are so helpful adn I can’t thank you all enough for input and advice and suggestions.
Thank you again!!
#6
03-22-2019, 07:12 AM
Hotshot
Based on your expanded description, it does appear that you have an exhaust restriction which might be anything from the tailpipe forward. That could be from a cat whose honeycomb was melted or that has crumbled, but that type of failure is pretty much always the result of something else, usually a severe misfire or vacuum leak that went unattended too far.
Personally, I'd drop the Y-pipe and see if power is restored or not. That will tell you if the upstream converters are restricted or not. As for the third converter, it can be tested with an electric leaf blower to see if there's any restriction or not.
A lot of cheap guys, if faced with upstream cats that are melted or crumbled, simply hollow them out and install anti-foulers to fool the computer.
Personally, I'd drop the Y-pipe and see if power is restored or not. That will tell you if the upstream converters are restricted or not. As for the third converter, it can be tested with an electric leaf blower to see if there's any restriction or not.
A lot of cheap guys, if faced with upstream cats that are melted or crumbled, simply hollow them out and install anti-foulers to fool the computer.
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