You can use most everything off the old engine. That is what I would do. The only reason I suggested you get a new cover is because you said you wanted to get this one ready while you drive the old one still in the truck. Depending on where the newer engine came from, you might need to swap oil pans, etc.

Since you are going to swap the timing cover, you might need to swap the harmonic balancer so the timing marks line up. This is not necessarily going to happen, but I would check it. What I would do is take the new engine and turn it by hand till the rotor on the distributor is pointing to #1 sparkplug wire, and the 0 mark on the balance lines up with the mark on the timing tab. Then do not turn the engine anymore. When you go to swap the covers, install it, and then eyeball the new harmonic balancer and the old. If you install the newer one make sure the marks line up on 0 like it did before with the old.

 

Ya the truck isn't driving right now. I took off the exhaust manifolds to replace the gaskets and the manifolds are so bad they won't go back on.

The engine that's in my truck now has two dipsticks. One near the timing cover and on on the driver's side of the engine. I was hoping to use the pan on the new engine. Donor engine doesn't have a distributor so I'll be swapping that along with my intake (iron 4bbl off '86).

 

If I can get my hands on a set of gt40 heads what will I need to make them work? I know I’ll probably need to enlarge the stud size. Will I need new pushrods and springs?

 

I would check your old timing cover, they are aluminum on the 302-351w and I had one at work on a 351 that had a hole through and through the timing cover in the coolant passage. The one on my 302 on my truck I have a new replacement for it as mine was heavily pitted and was not wanting to have to deal with coolant leaks after putting a new engine in my truck.

For the timing cover, Dorman has them for under $100 and they are quite beefy they are on par with OEM. If you want OEM like I wanted at one time and don't mind the price Greene has a bunch of them for $250 not including shipping. I decided on the Dorman variant as it looks identical to the OEM motorcraft one and is cheaper.

 

The only thing you "may" need are push rods. If your current engine is pedestal mount rockers it generally is a bolt on using the existing parts. The pedestal heads are drilled for 1/.2" head bolts , with the 302 using "stepped" head bolts for the smaller 7/16" threads in the block.... Really the dowel's locate the heads anyway so you can use non stepped 7/16" head bolts...

 

Just use existing 7/16 bolts or studs with Flange style head bolt washers Edelbrock 9680.

 

Not needed unless you are running aftermarket AL heads such as Edelbrocks.

 

How do I tell if they are pedastal heads?

 

Those are pedestal mount heads. All factory heads are as far as I know as they are non adjustable rockers they just torque down and that's it. Older factory heads would be adjustable rockers which are stud mounts. Aftermarket heads you can set them up for pedestal mounts but typically they are stud mount for adjustable valve train which provides better flexibility as you don't have to use shims to adjust your valve train when you switch cams from factory.

 

Stud mount heads can be either non adjustable or adjustable.. The non adjustable ones if lifter preload needed adjustment it was done by adjusting push rod length same as pedestal mount heads Shims only allow you to decrease preload not increase it. .

 

I don't think Ford ever made an adjustable valvetrain on the 302, only on the early 289.

 

Yes they sure did as Ford ran solid lifters on the HIPO 289's

Edit

The Boss 302 did use solid lifters but not really the typical Small Block Ford.

 

Well I cant say I ever saw non adjustable stud rockers on aftermarket heads before.

Yes shims only allow you to reduce preload not increase it, that is done by lengthening the push rods. But that is about the only way to make adjustments on pedestal mount rockers is in that fashion. Stud mount the only reason you change push rod length is for proper valve train geometry and getting your rocker arm contact patch to be center on the valve stem itself.

 

Yes this was not about aftermarket heads it was factory heads as that was what the OP was asking about. Aftermarket heads with stud mounted rockers are all adjustable.

 

Double post.