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Ford replacing 2018 5.0s?

 
  #61  
Old 04-04-2019, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by bedwards View Post
Smokewagun, Sorry to hear that, or maybe good that you will finally get resolution.
Thanks. Itís all good. Iím looking forward to finally closing this chapter. Now, I have to figure out what is the proper break in procedure. I donít think itís the recommended.
 
  #62  
Old 04-04-2019, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ecoboost12 View Post
Smokewagun,You of all people deserve a New Long block make sure you know what the Change is from the Engineers this is going to be a big process but on the bright side no more checking the oil and you can hand this down to your Son.
I appreciate that, ecoboost12. My understanding is the long block basically is a complete engine ready to be bolted in, and the transmission, exhaust, fuel lines, coolant system, and the polethera of wire connectors mated, and itís done. Sounds simple, although over 1/3 of the hours allocated per the TSB are to remove and replace the cab alone. Ouch.
My son is pushing for the resonator delete pipe to be installed as part of the engine work to go with the Corsa setup I installed last year. I think heís planning ahead.
 
  #63  
Old 04-04-2019, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by smokewagun View Post
Well, it appears Im the first on this board that I am aware of to be slated for a 5.0L replacement under the TSB. Dealer confirmed Ford agreed with the oil consumption test results, and authorized the complete engine be replaced. Now, it’s on backorder. I’m not excited, anticipating a whole variety of gremlins to pop up afterward, but time will tell. I guess after 27,000 miles and countless quarts out the tailpipe, I should be elated, but really, I’m worn out.
To try and reassure a bit, I had the 5.0L replaced in my '13 with a long block under warranty for the knocking cylinder distortion issue. I am VERY particular and you could not even tell they had been under the hood when they were done. Hopefully the servicing dealer has done this procedure before. You bring up a good point with "oil out the tailpipe" are they planning to do anything with emissions? Cats, O2 sensor? Just thinking things might be prematurely fouled with that oil being burned.

Originally Posted by smokewagun View Post
Thanks. It’s all good. I’m looking forward to finally closing this chapter. Now, I have to figure out what is the proper break in procedure. I don’t think it’s the recommended.
Since I've picked up my 5.0 with 5 miles on the clock, I've been taking the bit in the manual about "varying RPMs" literally and not so much the part about "move up through the gears quickly". I have been taking a longer route to work, some city driving to warm up the fluids then merge on the highway and get up to 4500 -5k RPMs. I'll respect the no towing thing, but this engine is going to see a range of RPM from me before 1000 miles. Giving it another couple hundred miles before WOT. I think getting the cylinder head pressure up will help seat these rings and PTWA cylinder linings. I think of it this way, they utilized this process for the GT350 and I'm guessing those engines saw some revs early. We shall see how it goes...

Keep us posted
 
  #64  
Old 04-04-2019, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Robbgt View Post
To try and reassure a bit, I had the 5.0L replaced in my '13 with a long block under warranty for the knocking cylinder distortion issue. I am VERY particular and you could not even tell they had been under the hood when they were done. Hopefully the servicing dealer has done this procedure before. You bring up a good point with "oil out the tailpipe" are they planning to do anything with emissions? Cats, O2 sensor? Just thinking things might be prematurely fouled with that oil being burned.



Since I've picked up my 5.0 with 5 miles on the clock, I've been taking the bit in the manual about "varying RPMs" literally and not so much the part about "move up through the gears quickly". I have been taking a longer route to work, some city driving to warm up the fluids then merge on the highway and get up to 4500 -5k RPMs. I'll respect the no towing thing, but this engine is going to see a range of RPM from me before 1000 miles. Giving it another couple hundred miles before WOT. I think getting the cylinder head pressure up will help seat these rings and PTWA cylinder linings. I think of it this way, they utilized this process for the GT350 and I'm guessing those engines saw some revs early. We shall see how it goes...

Keep us posted
Thanks. Great points. Iím not going to tow early, but it will get a full range or RPMís after warmup... if itís not on backorder for 12 months. 😆
Thanks for the emission thoughts. I cleaned my dual tip Corsa before leaving for spring break. After 2200 miles, it was black. I canít inagine what the cats and sensors are like. I WILL get this documented, if not changed. Ford will deny, but I donít have 5k on the truck. I made it to 27k, maybe 30 before the long block.
 
  #65  
Old 04-05-2019, 07:13 AM
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It's good to see you are being taken care of, and they are replacing your engine. I wouldn't worry about the repair, a competent technician shouldn't have any trouble getting things back together correctly. I had a 2008 PSD F250 that had an engine replacement before I purchased it brand-new, and I had no rattles, squeaks, or any other issues from the swap. It ran and drove just like a brand-new truck, and that was a more complex engine swap than the N/A gas V-8 under the hood of your F150.
 
  #66  
Old 04-05-2019, 07:50 AM
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I think they lift the cabs off for engine replacements now. It is designed that way to make it easier to access everything.
 
  #67  
Old 04-05-2019, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by windellmc View Post
I think they lift the cabs off for engine replacements now. It is designed that way to make it easier to access everything.
Yeah, I mentioned that above. Thatís over 1/3 of the total time in the TSB. Iím just concerned about dents, dings, scratches, etc. in the cab, bed, front quarter panels, etc.
 
  #68  
Old 04-05-2019, 10:06 AM
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breakin hard or soft driving

Originally Posted by systems View Post
so I just bought a 5litre Lariat in Jan and it has been driven twice, then sat in my garage for 10 weeks while I was out of country. So now do I drive it hard or easy to avoid the oil burning saga???
 
  #69  
Old 04-05-2019, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by smokewagun View Post
Sounds simple, although over 1/3 of the hours allocated per the TSB are to remove and replace the cab alone. Ouch.
Do they literally lift the entire cab off or do they just pull the hood & fenders off? It sounds extreme, but if it is designed to work that way, maybe it's easier than the old fashioned way. I was involved in a few engine swaps in my early days, and they were all a PITA working around in tight quarters.
 
  #70  
Old 04-05-2019, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by GlueGuy View Post
Do they literally lift the entire cab off or do they just pull the hood & fenders off? It sounds extreme, but if it is designed to work that way, maybe it's easier than the old fashioned way. I was involved in a few engine swaps in my early days, and they were all a PITA working around in tight quarters.
Inner fender supports are not removable. The cab is lifted, very straightforward repair. The hardest part is the ac system evacuation. Two good techs can have this done in a single day and that is from experience.
 
  #71  
Old 04-05-2019, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Big-Red-Lariat View Post
so I just bought a 5litre Lariat in Jan and it has been driven twice, then sat in my garage for 10 weeks while I was out of country. So now do I drive it hard or easy to avoid the oil burning saga???
I have under 400 miles on mine and have been breaking it in "moderately". No WOT pulls yet but 4500 - 5000 RPMs merging onto the highway with 3/4 throttle. I'll also give a few good throttle blips with downshift once on the highway. Been doing this daily on my commute to work.

Been keeping a close eye on the dipstick but still to early to tell. I am by no means an expert but willing to try this method. The manual advises otherwise...

Also, the 5.0 sound great at those RPMs - even with the factory exhaust
 
  #72  
Old 04-05-2019, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ford390gashog View Post
Inner fender supports are not removable. The cab is lifted, very straightforward repair. The hardest part is the ac system evacuation. Two good techs can have this done in a single day and that is from experience.
Well, I misread the TSB. Actually, the complete job is listed as 12 hours, with miscellaneous adders of tenths of an hour for spun cage nuts, if they occur. I canít believe it.
 
  #73  
Old 04-06-2019, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by smokewagun View Post
Well, I misread the TSB. Actually, the complete job is listed as 12 hours, with miscellaneous adders of tenths of an hour for spun cage nuts, if they occur. I canít believe it.
Glad to hear that Ford is taking care of you.
 
  #74  
Old 04-06-2019, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by GABAR View Post
Glad to hear that Ford is taking care of you.
Thanks. Me too. Iím taking bets on how long the backorder will be. Any thoughts?
 
  #75  
Old 04-06-2019, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by smokewagun View Post
Thanks. Me too. Iím taking bets on how long the backorder will be. Any thoughts?
I think they have to take off all of the Belt Drive Accessories Alt, A/C Comp P/S Pump Water Pump all Intake air plenum, fuel related items Exhaust Manifolds off your old Engine and install it on the Long block been there done it several times, I'm glad for you they are replacing the Long Block I think they are going to be Quick there are a Crap load of problems on this forum and other forums there are allot of Unhappy customers on there Crown Jewel.
 

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