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E5 and E7 heads are pretty much identical except for the chamber volume.. E5's have a nominal 69cc chamber while E7s have 64cc chambers. This translates into a higher static CR which helps torque output.
If things work out, I'll be using the E7s. Got the ports cleaned up yesterday.
E5 and E7 heads are pretty much identical except for the chamber volume.. E5's have a nominal 69cc chamber while E7s have 64cc chambers. This translates into a higher static CR which helps torque output.
Mill them .040 and the chamber volume dips to 57cc's
How much can you mill before you need to mill the intake manifold?
.040 according to Ford. Also depends on the intake itself. I milled a set of Canfields .060 and only had to wallow the intake bolt holes to get it to fit with a Vic Jr. I later used these heads on my 331 with a repop 3x2 intake and didn't have to do anything for it to fit. If you mill them, don't do anything to the intake until first bolting the heads down (with gaskets) and test fit the intake you're going to use to see if anything needs milling.
A thought about increasing compression. With timing set at sticker recommendation, the engine was prone to spark knock on 87 octane gas if you put your foot in it at all. For years I pumped mid-grade 89 octane.
I'm not a fan of milling for the reasons of causing misalignment of bolts and thinning of the deck surface.
Also the rocker arm geometry will change.
But lots of people do it, so I guess it's not really a problem.
Last edited by Beanscoot; Jun 9, 2020 at 09:50 PM.
Reason: Add one more comment
I did a set of E7's same as yours and the end result was great. With a Ford Racing A321 intake, 1.7 Cobra rockers and a B303 cam, it would pull to 6500 rpms. Had it in an 89 Ranger (ext cab, 3550 lbs) Surprised more than a few cars with it. Ran it with Shelby Tri-Y's and topped with a modified 600 Holley
I will likely have milling kept to a minimum. I can see both heads and decks losing a bit. The E7 heads I picked up over the weekend still have the stock surface.
A thought about increasing compression. With timing set at sticker recommendation, the engine was prone to spark knock on 87 octane gas if you put your foot in it at all. For years I pumped mid-grade 89 octane.
I ran those ported E7's with an F4TE cam after the B303 build and it was fine on 87 with 14* advance, Summer time I'd run 89 as it would ping with the hotter temps. I think I had them milled .010 or .020. Never had issues with rocker geometry. Not even with the Canfields, I'm running stock length roller pushrods
I'm still on the fence bout which way to go on the cam, roller vs flat tappet.
FWIW: I am no longer on the fence. I ordered the Crane 364211.
Also, I have both E7TE and E6SE heads. Both would have to get the same work done to be "like new".
After reading this thread through again, I feel my original goals have not changed. Hence, the 364211 advertised as 800- 4000 rpm. With that range, it seems to be a toss up on which heads to use. I would, of course, clean up the E6SE heads per Conanski's recommendations. Both would likely get a minimal milling. They are both sitting at the machine shop now. I need to tell my machinest which ones to work on. If I don't tell him otherwise soon, he'll do the E7s by default.
FWIW: I am no longer on the fence. I ordered the Crane 364211.
Also, I have both E7TE and E6SE heads. Both would have to get the same work done to be "like new".
After reading this thread through again, I feel my original goals have not changed. Hence, the 364211 advertised as 800- 4000 rpm. With that range, it seems to be a toss up on which heads to use. I would, of course, clean up the E6SE heads per Conanski's recommendations. Both would likely get a minimal milling. They are both sitting at the machine shop now. I need to tell my machinest which ones to work on. If I don't tell him otherwise soon, he'll do the E7s by default.
I wouldn't even think about the E6's. The E7's will do just as well and give you 25 more HP. There's a reason Ford didn't use the E6's in the truck line an didn't use them a second year in the Mustangs. That cam you chose ? Flat or roller ? I also wouldn't think about a flat tappet cam in a roller block.
That cam you chose ? Flat or roller ? I also wouldn't think about a flat tappet cam in a roller block.
The 364211 is a roller cam. after I posted this morning, I went to the machine shop. Bryan made the call on the heads already. The default E7s. The truck's original block is at the shop too but is not roller ready. An E6 block cast in 1985 is capable of being made roller but the machine work makes this cost prohibitive. Not only would the two holes for the spider need to be drilled, but also, the tops of all the lifter bores would need machining. Bryan said that is too costly at $300. I didn't ask him to elaborate but he did anyway explaining why. Now, I've sourced a '96 Explorer short block with crosshatch still showing. $50 if it needs a bore. $100 if it only needs a hone and the pistons are reusable. After looking at the cam (badly pitted) that came from this engine, I can't be sure it has not been rebuilt recently.
FWIW: I am no longer on the fence. I ordered the Crane 364211.
Good choice. That cam will pull to 5500rpm no problem on a 5.0 with E7 heads, it has really mild ramps for a roller so it should idle like stock too and easily pass emissions should that be a requirement.
Ski, you recommend that cam at the beginning of this thread last year. Also, I have been reading threads in the Small Block forum for a few weeks now. I've covered only a hundred pages or so but see that you and Baddad have been posting here dating back at least ten years. Probably further but I haven't covered that much ground yet.
From my studies I see that you are an advocate for free flowing exhaust. @baddad457 is adamant about free flowing too but big on getting the size right. I am reminded of my Harley days when guys would bolt on the big shotgun porkers and absolutely kill what little performance they may have had.
Exhaust. Right now my truck has the original cats and exhaust manifolds. The cats seem to flow as good as they can. Good flow out the tailpipe and vacuum test comes up fine. I haven't run a muffler in fifteen years. I believe the stock tailpipe is 2 1/2". Of course I would like to use what I already have. That said, for my low RPM torque build, will this exhaust setup disappoint? Shorty headers are cheap and bolt on. Long tubes would mean I need a custom exhaust.