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Old Oct 2, 2003 | 08:24 AM
  #16  
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286merc
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From: Southern New Hampshire
Vern, Sodium Hydroxide (NaO2, Lye) is dangerous stuff but works good and fast.
It is an alkaline, NOT an acid so it does not attack the base iron, just the rust oxides. Do NOT use on anything but ferric materials.

It will also remove grease and paint but that does weaken the solution so I try and get most of the major grease off first.

Works best when around 140-160F but you need proper clothes and eye wear as this stuff will eat through your skin in an instant. I use a chemical suit that I bought from a farm supply outfit, not expensive at all.

I use it primarily in a 55 gal drum that sits on a home made fire pit utilizing an old cast iron grate and fire bricks, granite, etc.

At those temps it cleans a block in about 5 hours. I have a cherry picker attached during the process and then lift out and into another drum with clear water and finally into another with a water/baking soda solution to neutralize any remaining NaO2.

For wheels I'm usually not in any hurry so I do a quick dust sandblast to get rid of the big chunks/paint and then into the molasses for the full treatment. (most of my wheel work are old wires) I see no reason the NaO2 wont work but it is real slow at room temps and below. Your garage has a lot of room so rigging up a hot plate or cast iron propane camp stove and a cut down drum may be an option for you.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2003 | 01:38 PM
  #17  
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Carl,

Thanks for the info.

Have you ever used Muriatic Acid (like used to clean swimming pools) ? I heard somewhere it removes paint and rust, but you have to neutralize it afterward or the metal will continue to rust. I'm looking for something cheap and easy that will remove paint and rust from a wheel by soaking.

ps I've moved and no longer have access to a nice big garage like I did.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2003 | 10:15 PM
  #18  
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286merc
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Muriatic Acid is 40% diluted hydrochloric Acid and is as dangerous as NaO2. It is also extremely aggressive in eating good iron/steel also so I would be very careful if I use it.

I use it around here mainly to clean old rusty tools I pick up in barns, bone yards, etc. One quick dunk and they look almost new and then out on the fleamarket for sale table to well heeled but dumb city folks.

So you moved out of the "big city" to that country place after all. I havent been up that way since the visit, this summer has been too busy to do much of anything but make money
 
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Old Oct 3, 2003 | 04:51 AM
  #19  
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GreatNorthWoods
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
I use it around here mainly to clean old rusty tools I pick up in barns, bone yards, etc. One quick dunk and they look almost new and then out on the fleamarket for sale table to well heeled but dumb city folks.

So you moved out of the "big city" to that country place after all. I havent been up that way since the visit, this summer has been too busy to do much of anything but make money. [/B][/QUOTE]

Carl,

Hey, I resemble that remark!

BUT, since I'm out in the country now, maybe I can do something about these heels!

Glad somebody is making some dough. I sure ain't.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2003 | 09:32 PM
  #20  
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pcmenten
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From: Boise, Idaho
Originally posted by 286merc
Vern, Sodium Hydroxide (NaO2, Lye) is dangerous stuff but works good and fast.
It is an alkaline, NOT an acid so it does not attack the base iron, just the rust oxides. Do NOT use on anything but ferric materials.

It will also remove grease and paint but that does weaken the solution so I try and get most of the major grease off first.

Works best when around 140-160F but you need proper clothes and eye wear as this stuff will eat through your skin in an instant. I use a chemical suit that I bought from a farm supply outfit, not expensive at all.

I use it primarily in a 55 gal drum that sits on a home made fire pit utilizing an old cast iron grate and fire bricks, granite, etc.

At those temps it cleans a block in about 5 hours. I have a cherry picker attached during the process and then lift out and into another drum with clear water and finally into another with a water/baking soda solution to neutralize any remaining NaO2.

For wheels I'm usually not in any hurry so I do a quick dust sandblast to get rid of the big chunks/paint and then into the molasses for the full treatment. (most of my wheel work are old wires) I see no reason the NaO2 wont work but it is real slow at room temps and below. Your garage has a lot of room so rigging up a hot plate or cast iron propane camp stove and a cut down drum may be an option for you.
Ok, so my molasses drum is empty so I'm going to rig it for lye. I bought three cans of Red Devil Lye but that seems like to slow way to go. Where can a guy get lye in bulk.
 
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