I see that, but I do not even have a red line on the other side of the intake like the diagram shows, we got a bunch of rain coming for the next few days, but I am going to take a hard look at it all when the sky drys up, but the only lines I have on the other side are black, yellow and orange, and it is all in the original loom...................
I think I am just going to apply manifold vac to the black line, the end result will be the same, the majority of controls will be near the manifold vac feed and the reservoir will help with the Bypass Valve at the very end, in the end it is the same, it is just reversed, it is very odd.

Guy

 

I believe “MAN VAC” is the Manifold Vacuum Tree. I’ve never seen that Vacuum Block connector shown on a diagram since 1985, and it has one.

His Red line is not factory, it has been modified.

The Black line belongs there. Take the Red one out and put the Black one in.

He will need to follow the black line back, see that it is tied to each solenoid, then around back and over to the Vacuum Can/Reservoir connections.

The Red line goes to the Vacuum Reservoir connection path, coming from the Vacuum Tree “MAN VAC”.

In his configuration, All 3 Solenoids are tied together on the black Tee’d lines.
That vacuum manifold trio, (Black line) is connected to the Vacuum Reservoir which sources it’s vacuum off the Intake Vacuum Manifold Tree, (Red Line)

So, From the Vacuum Reservoir/Can you should have a Black and Red. Red to the Vacuum Tree. Black to the 3 solenoids.

(remove the black line)
Blow on the Red Line, into the Vacuum Can/Reservoir, if you can blow then the Check-Valve is blown.
If you can’t blow, then you should be able to suck on it, hold your finger over the Black side. If you can’t create and hold a vacuum at your finger by sucking on the Red line, then the check valve is blown, and an external can be added.
(sounds like a biker bar name)

Yes, Orange to the ACV/TAD from the TAD solenoid, that will work. But your yellow line on your TAD Solenoid should be going to your ACV/TAD.

Take some photos of the vacuum Can/Reservoir, vacuum tree, and associated lines.
Sorry for butting in, but these essays were challenging for me tonight.

 

Well, not sure what has happened with this truck but I guess I am going to have to rework it all, before I do I will check the Vac Reservoir (did not know it had a built in check valve) and I will check the ACV and Bypass valves to make sure they are good, I have the Hand Vac Tool for checking them, if they are bad I will replace before I rework, maybe I can find some of these lines in a junkyard ???? I found them online and they are pricey.....................but if I do this I would like to have the lines color coded.
There is no red line going to the reservoir, the black is feeding it and then the other goes to the bypass valve....................
So if what you are saying about reservoir is true (not questioning, just saying) then from what I have seen, the black is feeding the output and the MAN nipple is feeding the bypass valve, so if the can is working then I have no vacuum to the bypass as the check valve would prevent it LOL
WOW, what a damn mess
So everything on the drivers side is good with exception of the red line feeding the EGR solenoid, I will try and see if I can remove and swap, then I have to get the red line that was feeding solenoid over to the reservoir feeding the MAN port, then carry black line to my reservoir and correct the bypass valve feed..............
Like I told Subford, it is raining here for a few days, once it drys up I am going to take a in depth look at all this and see if I cannot use what is there to re-work it all, everything is good except the EGR solenoid feed (which I will try to swap line that is glued) and then carrying the red and black to the reservoir with a MAN VAC supply from the vacuum tree with a red line
The rest is good as it would seem, just hope the Bypass Valve, ACV and reservoir are all good, this truck is like a boat, I am throwing money at it, but cannot complain as I have restored all else and this would be the last of the issues I have to take care of, thought I was done after the air pump but then I found this loose line and had to open another can of worms ROFLOL

Thankyou both for all the help
@vjsimone do you have a full page pic of that "Vac. Routing Diagram" ??? I am creating a library LOL, it is the same as the other with exception of the EGR solenoid feed which either way is the same, just helps me to have the visuals

 

That Vacuum diagram I posted is off a 1990 350 5.8L, I think, but I posted because the colors match your colors better.
The diagram Bill posted is the correct one for your engine and year.

I suggest you just repair what you have first, then rework later if possible.
I would not use Junk Yard lines, they won’t last long unless they are off a newer model, they get very brittle. You can use the standard black vacuum lines to fix for now, just use some tape or paint the ends to identify the vacuum path.

The Bypass and Diverter valve vacuum are supplied by their respective Vacuum Solenoids;
The TAB path is Yellow, from TAB Solenoid to Air BPV, Bypass Valve.
The ACV/TAD path is Pink, from TAD Solenoid to ACV/ Air Diverter Valve.

Yeah, pull the Red and replace with the Black on the driver’s side and that will fix the driver’s side.

 

Yeah that layout is completely different, I got all the controls down now, just had no idea what the ACV was though I did know where it was LOL, I kinda figured it was Air Control Valve but every time I guess I make problems for myself it seems.
I found the colored lines online but they are pricey since you have to buy a 100' at a time, going to keep searching
The lines on this truck are in good shape, a bit of color fade but still far from brittle
All the lines should be good at least for what I need, just need about 5-6 ft of the red line and I can get this done.
Not sure about the condition of the reservoir but will check it, same for control valves, hope they are all good, money is tight, but either way going to get this mess done once and for all, just put a new air pump on so do not have to worry for that, old was OEM and bearing wear real sloppy, was making a lot of noise, this truck sat for a long long time, so I have pretty much had to restore it, but I like it, just need to get these last few bugs straight so I can enjoy it instead of working on it

Thx for the help both of you, I really appreciate it !

Guy

 

I got out yesterday after the rain and looked into this mess.
First off I was wrong, the red does feed the reservoir and the black does go back to the controls, the black and orange cross up where they enter the loom so it looked like the black was feeding the Bypass Valve but it was not, it was going back to drivers side around the back of the intake feeding all the controls.
The red was feeding the "MAN" port of the reservoir but disappeared ................so I pulled all of the loom off and waaa laaa, there it was in the loom behind the intake cut off.........
So you all were exactly right, this was not stock or some factory different thing, maybe this was someones attempt to bypass the controls and delete the air pump operation ????
Or maybe someone had a line go bad, and cut the line to use for a temp repair and never went back and repaired the rest, have no clue.

Anyway, I did manage to get the lines out of the fitting going to the EGR Solenoid, and switched the red for the black line, then I used the red line that was going to the EGR solenoid and joined it back to the cut line in the loom with a 1/8" piece of vacuum tubing and now it is as it should be, still going to get another long piece of this red line to re-run that one from the vacuum tree to the reservoir so I do not have the vacuum tube repair in there, but the repair is hidden in the loom so as far as color codes, it looks factory now.
I did check the reservoir check valve and it is good, can is holding vacuum, re-wrapped all the lines with the existing loom.
So what I thought was going to be a complete do over turned out pretty easy to solve
I am still going to double check the Bypass Valve and ACV diaphragms to make sure they are not leaking and need replacing, but have good vacuum everywhere so thinking they may be ok, but want to make sure, not sure how long all this has been disabled, probably since before I got truck since this vacuum routing has been the same since I have had it, so these valves have been inoperative for a long long time, and at least I know also the rebuilder of the motor did not do this either, though I did not think he would, he is a really sharp guy.
So in the end I did not have any vacuum going to these controls or even the reservoir, so I had no vacuum leaks from this, just TAD and TAB solenoids were not getting and switching vacuum to control valves.
The truck seems happier, it is idling smoother and has dropped idle rpm a little bit, much smoother and quieter now, I guess maybe that is a perk for having the air pump circuit operating.
Thankyou @subford and @vjsimone for the routing pics, control pics, and the reservoir info, also for your input, it helped, by the time I went out there I had a excellent understanding of the layout, the colors and the operation as it should have been
Great part was it was a simple fix, and when I get the red line, it will be easy to replace as well, just have to very the Bypass and ACV diaphragms are good and replace if bad and all is back to OEM !

Thankyou Thankyou

Guy