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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Flathead Venting

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Old Feb 20, 2019 | 12:24 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by TitusDH
Have you run the engine already? If so, went the dip stick flying? If not, and no oil pushes out anywhere, the crankcase pressure goes somewhere else.
Past the rope seals, mostly.

The right way to do it, if there really is no connection provided, would be to pull the blower and manifold. Then shorten and cap the vent tube inside the valve chest (red arrow), and add a connection to the side of it for a pipe or hose that runs to the back of the block (green arrow). Then add a PCV setup outside the engine. There really needs to be a way for air to get into the crankcase, too....

 
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Old Apr 14, 2019 | 02:20 PM
  #17  
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Oil does push out! It blows the seal around the pan and the cover of the oil pump on the back of the engine behind flywheel and pukes oil onto the exhaust pipe with a nice stream of white smoke when the oil hits the hot exhaust.

Your arrow is pointing to a vacuum line for the brakes system. The circle is an air pressure activated device that, I think, controls the pressure in the SC chamber when just cruising. Please don't quote me on that!

I've ordered a vent "tube" from speedway that attaches to the side of the oil pan, unfortunately, I'll have to drop the pan to install and can just hope I can replace the pan without leaks as I'm not removing the engine to do this. My frustration with this issue is driving me to excessive drinking!

Thanks for your comments!
 
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Old Apr 14, 2019 | 02:26 PM
  #18  
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Yes, I have, but it has not yet blown the dipstick out, but has done a good job of blowing seals (pan and likely seal on oil pump cover behind flywheel) the cause oil to drip onto hot exhaust with a nice stream of white smoke trailing behind the truck.

Thanks for your comments!
 
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Old Apr 16, 2019 | 05:08 PM
  #19  
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No breather

Can you drill and tap the manifold near where the original puke tube would be, and another drill and tap into the base of the carbs, like you have now for your brakes. You gotta get that crank pressure out of that motor.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2019 | 05:47 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Larryjr03
Can you drill and tap the manifold near where the original puke tube would be, and another drill and tap into the base of the carbs, like you have now for your brakes. You gotta get that crank pressure out of that motor.
. Problem solved by engine builder. Attached an oil vent cap to the top of the canister on firewall (see photo) that was previously sealed with a cap. It was such an obvious fix that I overlooked it. A real duh moment. Thanks for your reply!
 
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Old Apr 17, 2019 | 10:36 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by clayguy
Problem solved by engine builder.
I hope your firewall doesn't get oil spray when you're on the gas. - Bob
 
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Old Apr 17, 2019 | 02:32 PM
  #22  
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So do I, Bob! Here's a photo of the current solution. I bought the oil vent from Speedway and it was a perfect fit. I ran the car for a few miles and got her up to temperature and tested several areas with an infra-red heat sensor and she is running at 180 degrees. What I thought was white smoke prior to proper venting was actually steam from moisture that had accumulated in the unvented engine. So far, I'm pleased with the results, and I hope time will continue with the same results.

Thanks for your response!

 
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