I will be doing some maintenance to my truck, and I'd like to know what repairs/upgrades/maintenance items are best performed together to avoid potential rework in the future.

Here is some background to consider when offering suggestions... I do not have a significant amount of excess money to burn, however, I would like to give the truck a decent pick-me-up while making some necessary repairs. I'd be open for suggestions for smaller performance upgrades/improvements assuming provided they aren't too costly and they don't require significant continued maintenance.

1.) The driving repair is the glow plugs (only 1 of 8 are working). So... all items necessary to replace the GP's will be performed. I've seen the CCV vent cover o-rings could be performed with this install - are these recommended for what purpose? Question - how many openings/closings can a valve cover gasket withstand? What would I be looking at to determine if they need replacing? Also - I've heard re-torquing the rocker arms is suggested while you're in here.

2.) I've also been leaking some fuel, so I will be rebuilding my fuel bowl (and fuel drain valve) at this same time. I would like a little added pressure to my system, so I've been considering replacing the FPR spring with a slightly higher pressure spring. Thoughts?

3.) I'm going to go ahead and replace my fuel bowl filter - it's not been changed in a while. Anything special I need to consider with this?

4.) Also on the consideration list is the HPOP. I'd like to know what's involved in a rebuild for it - or should I just consider replacing the o-rings and maybe the "non-serviceable" plug on the HPOP (what does this do again?)? I've not been leaking any oil currently, but since I'm going to be tearing things down that far already.

5.) Two additional considerations are the IPR and the ICP sensors. Are these items you normally replace before you have issues or are these best to go ahead and replace while I'm doing everything else?

6.) When I've been reading about all these maintenance items, I've seen people talking about cleaning/replacing the EBP lines - to keep fuel mileage up. I've deleted my EBP valve and I believe my sensor is left unplugged (I'd have to go back and check) - does that mean this would be pointless for me?

Any other suggestions?

My signature is up-to-date, so feel free to ask any comments, and I will be happy to get back to you. Thanks so much in advance.

 

New injector orings is a must do as well.

 

I had all new injectors put in only about 40K-50K miles ago (because the o-rings were bad). I would prefer not to mess with them if I don't have to.

Knowing they were replaced then, would you still recommend them?

I found a good write-up that I could probably follow, but starting the truck after I've reinstalled them seems more involved (walk-through). Risking "hydro-locking" an engine doesn't sound good at all.

Thanks,

 

Nah, if you had new ones put in only 40-50k ago I wouldn't touch them. That would have been the time to do the glow plugs and UVCH's/gaskets though. I think there is a torque spec on them you might want to check real quick though.

 

​​​​​​That would have been the time to do those... you're right, but I didn't know enough to feel comfortable then. Plus... I didn't know how to diagnose the issue that I had at that time either.

 

 

I wouldn't worry about the ICP, IPR valve or HPOP unless you have good suspicion there is anything wrong with them. (use ForScan to see the data). Definitely fix your fuel bowl and put a new OEM filter in it. You can replace the FPR spring at the same time when it is out. Riff-raff sells a rebuilt kit for the FPR. The EBP sensor tube tends to crack and not hold any pressure which causes the sensor to not work properly. That might be worth replacing preventatively. Its a cheap part.

 

If I've done the EBPV delete and plug, would the EBP tube replacement / cleaning have any affect?

Also - I've added the FPR rebuild kit to the list.

 

I would go for new Glow plugs, hot torque the injector bolts....Reseal the fuel bowl and related fittings.......don't mess with the HPOP, IPR or ICP.

 

Hot torquing the rockers and injectors were mentioned twice in this thread. How would you do anything inside the valve covers "hot"?

 

You can take the CAC piping off, air intake pipe, unbolt the valve covers...but leaving a couple of lower side bolts in. Then, making sure nothing near the turbo compressor wheel can get sucked in....start it up and let it idle. Or if you have a hi-idle tune...go with that. Let it get warm...pop off the valve covers, and torque away.

 

For the ICP, unplug it and see if the truck runs better. If so it needs to be replaced. Check if it has oil in the electrical plug, that is a good sign it needs to be
replaced too.

Mine ran more quiet when I unplugged it, bought a new one and the engine is now more smooth, not much difference in power just more quite and smooth.

 

You didn't mention specifically doing the UVCH's with the glowplugs, but if I were you I'd definitely add those to the list when you're doing the GP's...also the CCV o-rings are so cheap its crazy not to just do them...I believe mine were original to the truck (and likely the first time ever having the CCV doghouse removed) when I did my GP's in December and there was no reusing them so I was glad I had ordered a set of o-rings ahead of time.

With the EBP tube/sensor just remember that it is still feeding info to the PCM even if its not using it to activate the EBPV...There was a thread a little while back debating the need for the sensor if you've gone full delete to the EBPV but IIRC the consensus was that the EBP sensor still affected fueling characteristics with the PCM

 

What should I be looking for when inspecting the UVCH gaskets? I'll do them if I have to, but I'd rather not add $160 to the job if I don't have to. I've heard they can be re-useable up to a point.

I'll go ahead and grab the CCV o-rings for sure. I can justify $5 o-rings much easier than I can UVCH gaskets.

Update: I just did a bit of research - the harness is different than the gasket - which are usually necessary / recommended? I was seeing about $50 for the harnesses and about $80 for the gasket (per side).