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Driving down the road
first I notice the ABS light is on
Then ABS light goes off and all the gauges drop to nothing
Then about 2 miles more and truck shuts down
all power is lost
I hear a clicking sound coming from under the truck
I unhook battery and reconnect no more clicking till I turn the key
Ok after leaving the battery disconnected for 10 minutes.
I decided to hook it up and see if I could determine where the clicking is coming from
Hooked up battery
Turned key to on
Got dash power
Turned key to start and lost it all again
Ok battery disconnect again for 5 or so minutes
reconnect
Turn on key
Power to dash
Leave key on, don't try to start, power goes off after maybe 1 minute.
Alternator is shot. Just had this happen to me. Died in front of house. Called tow as it wouldn't restart. Tow arrives and he says try to start. Started up and he drove it on to flatbed to take to shop for R & R of alternator. It was cold and snowing so I didn't want to do it.
When did you purchase the new battery? How long has it been in your truck? Once the truck starts, it shouldn't need the battery to run. The alternator takes over and supplies the current needed. The battery is really just to kick the starter motor over and power up the needed electrical components until the motor is turning and the alternator is suppling power.
Replaced with other battery and everything is good
Yeah,maybe. However, you may just be running off its initial stored charge. You'd best VERIFY that the alternator is actually working before driving too far.
I was thinking that too, shouldn't need battery once running.
I swapped batteries and I'm getting 13.8 volts While running.
Battery in question was reading 10.1 volts.
Been on the charger for 3 hours now, I'm going out to test it right now.
Battery was new in December, worked great during sub zero temps couple weeks ago.
I was thinking that too, shouldn't need battery once running.
I swapped batteries and I'm getting 13.8 volts While running.
Battery in question was reading 10.1 volts.
Been on the charger for 3 hours now, I'm going out to test it right now.
Battery was new in December, worked great during sub zero temps couple weeks ago.
I'd take the precaution to take your alternator in and have it load tested. It may give you a decent voltage reading while idling without much load on it, but that voltage may be dropping once a load is applied, in turn compensating with your battery. It's a fairly common situation. The bottom line is that your truck doesn't "run" off of the battery, it runs off of the alternator.
I have a battery load tester and charging system tester
I just tested the battery at 95% charge and it tests good
so I swap it back into the truck and it starts right up and IS NOT charging, reading 12.4volts and dropping
SO I guess I'm taking the alternator in for a bench test
I tested the charging system when I got it home with the donor battery and all tested good.
intermitant alternator?
FWIW sometimes the alternator can't keep up with some surge loads while the battery can. I've seen a bad battery and corroded terminals cause cars to stall at low engine speed in gear as brakes are applied. The brake lights drop the voltage just enough without the battery catching it. Same cars in Park with nothing changed and brake lights might get a minor drop in RPM but not enough to stall without the drag of the torque converter, then the alternator has a bit more time to catch it.