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I need to make a YES OR NO decision today on the FS2500 bypass oil filter. The pressure line coming out of the bottom of the oil filter is low. This bothers me. I don't take the van off road. However, I do drive on national forest gravel roads.
The pressure line is low to ground. Potential failure point.
I installed an oil return line adapter on the plastic oil cap. It's tight. I prefer an aluminum oil fill cap but there are not any available.
The oil fill cap is hollow.
Oil fill cap bottom view. Adapter is threaded into hollow hole.
That’s a big HELL NO from me. That fitting hanging down is asking for trouble even on the highway. No telling what debris you will run over and hit that and cause a mess. You’d lose oil before you realized it.
You can plumb the return into a valve cover plug like TooManyToys did.
That’s a big HELL NO from me. That fitting hanging down is asking for trouble even on the highway. No telling what debris you will run over and hit that and cause a mess. You’d lose oil before you realized it.
You can plumb the return into a valve cover plug like TooManyToys did.
The line hanging is the pressure line leaving the oil filter going into the FS2500. I would need another port to plug into. My van has been down since the end of December going back and forth with FS2500 Filtrations Solutions. At this point, I will spend less time and money changing the oil every 3000 miles.
Unless someone knows a better place than the oil filter housing for bypassing, I believe this project has low benefits compared to the high risk of ripping out the oil line.
Last edited by coolfeet; Feb 22, 2019 at 03:10 PM.
Reason: add photo
If you really want it, you can put a T into one of those metal lines. It's very doable if you have brazing tool. If not, you can still do it, but you may need some special clamp+fitting for it to work. Basically, drill a hole, have a clamp over it that provides something like an NPT port for you to go from there. If you know how to weld, making a clamp like that is easy too. I would then seal with high temp RTV.
If you really want it, you can put a T into one of those metal lines. It's very doable if you have brazing tool. If not, you can still do it, but you may need some special clamp+fitting for it to work. Basically, drill a hole, have a clamp over it that provides something like an NPT port for you to go from there. If you know how to weld, making a clamp like that is easy too. I would then seal with high temp RTV.
The problem is the connection coming off the bottom of the oil filter. I need to find a port with pressure leaving the oil filter to feed into the bypass filter "In".
The problem is the connection coming off the bottom of the oil filter. I need to find a port with pressure leaving the oil filter to feed into the bypass filter "In".
What I said is that you don't need to take oil out of the filter to feed the bypass filter. The two metal pipes, one is "IN" the other is "OUT" for the oil filter's base. So, if you tap into that "IN" line, you will be able to get pressured oil to feed your bypass filter. If you prefer filtered oil instead, then you can tap into the "OUT" line, but it's lower pressure, it may work better though, but most people connect parallel on the two filters.
What I said is that you don't know to take oil out of the filter to feed the bypass filter. The two metal pipes, one is "IN" the other is "OUT" for the oil filter's base. So, if you tap into that "IN" line, you will be able to get pressured oil to feed your bypass filter. If you prefer filtered oil instead, then you can tap into the "OUT" line, but it's lower pressure, it may work better though, but most people connect parallel on the two filters.
Thanks for clarifying the lines. I found the lines on top of my oil filter housing. Yes, I could do what you suggested. I would have to hire a professional to do this as I don't have tools or the workspace. I believe to do this right, one would have to lift the van up.
Mark, that would not leave the driveway, it's too risky for the trips you take. Are there no additional ports on the stock oil filter adapter?
I am looking for a pressure port where people install oil pressure gauges.
I took a long time thinking through this project. However, I did not think about measuring how close to the ground the stock oil filter already sits. As you mentioned, it will not leave my driveway with all the cross country road trips we take.
I have a friend of sorts who owns a repair shop that does a lot of custom work. He repaired the broken battery cable that links the 2 frame rail batteries rather than charging me $800+ for the Ford cable. I called his shop today and they said they can find a solution. This guy thinks like you, Jack. He's an engineer.
I need to take a step back. Do I really need an oil bypass filter? No. I can change the oil every 3-5k. I bought it because we usually take a 5-8k mile road trip every year and I change the oil on the road. Looks like I will still be doing that until I can build my own kit that's not dangling on the ground.
You helped me to solve the oil filler cap problem. It's ready for the kit.
I need to find a high-pressure port. I called Amsoil and the service tech said good luck. I have a hunch the answer is hiding in plain view.
I have 3 months to find the port before we leave on the road trip to Utah. We will be driving bumpy BLM and national forest roads.
I got tired of the bypass filter project and needed something to do. I pulled the rear wheel off to check the condition of the right rear brakes and caliper. The caliper bolt easily was removed and the grease looked fresh. The brake pads looked good. I will remove the caliper tomorrow.
I am tabling the bypass filter for the next month. Returning the FS2500 is imminent. 3 months is barely enough time to prepare for my upcoming trip to Utah as I am taking 2 vans. My wife's cousins are coming from Manila at the end of May.
With the 6.0 you could use the oil pressure test port under the front of the intake maniford. Because of the threads, you need to get a cap with a Allen key hex, then drill and tap the plug for a pipe thread then you can work off that. I haven’t finalized what to do with that port, oil pressure gauge, oil bypass filter, even thought about a pre-start oil pressure pump.
With the 6.0 you could use the oil pressure test port under the front of the intake maniford. Because of the threads, you need to get a cap with a Allen key hex, then drill and tap the plug for a pipe thread then you can work off that. I haven’t finalized what to do with that port, oil pressure gauge, oil bypass filter, even thought about a pre-start oil pressure pump.
LOL, I grabbed that pic off Google before going to bed, now that you revived the other thread I see it came from here. Not sure hat to tell you more of other then not to use any fitting mentioned in the other thread. It is not a 7/16-20 thread, it’s metric 12mm. It like one of those other imperial-metric matches that almost fit. But the diameter and thread pitch is almost correct, which means the individual thread stress will be very high and not well distributed. In an aluminum body, during tightening or loading from bump impacts, the aluminum body could be stripped. I’ve not found the perfect adapter for the o-ring design other then the standard plugs used in the heads, fuel, or high pressure oil systems with this truck. So the best mechanical conversion is to get one of the proper plugs and drill and tap it for whatever thread would be used, for me the best choice is 1/8 npt.
Looks the same as the photo. I am trying to figure out if this above the engine on my van or below. The oil filter is below. However, when I climb under the van, this does not look familiar.
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