2017 high idle plug and play
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New User
Joined: Nov 2016
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2017 high idle plug and play
I’ve read a lot in here through search about high idle mods, bd diesel, potentiometer etc but haven’t seen anyone talk about 12 volts solutions plug and play kit https://www.12volt.solutions/collect...e-kit-1400-rpm
i stumbled upon that searching for high idle and I was wondering has anyone in here used it and if they have do they like it and any issues...
i stumbled upon that searching for high idle and I was wondering has anyone in here used it and if they have do they like it and any issues...
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
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From: BC Canada
Not a lot of good reviews on 12 volt solutions with their remote starts on this board. It is possibly related more to install technique. Personally, I have experience doing hi idle on my previous diesel with upfitters and think that is the better option. Maybe more with direct experience will chime in here.
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New User
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I’m just looking for a quick fix for right now since I finally convinced my dealer that high idle mods have been done by dealers and there isn’t any void of warranty 🙄 it’s been a pain back and forth void not void, they can, can’t. But the Thing is they won’t touch it cause it isn’t something from the factory so only the guy that they use that does their lifts etc can so untill I can get to him (he’s been overbooked and probably won’t get to him till spring) so I saw this and figured what the heck but if it’s trash I don’t wanna drop the cabbage on it. It also works with autostart which is a cool feature since I’ve read upfiter switched ones can’t.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 787
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From: Lansing MI
Are you just wanting the higher idle for cold starts, or are you running something of the transmission PTO?
For cold starts, the truck does higher idle when it determines it is needed, from the factory.
For cold starts, the truck does higher idle when it determines it is needed, from the factory.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
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From: BC Canada
Ah, remote start with the idle up-fitter switch left on works too...... You just leave the switch in the on position. I had it working on my old truck, see signature. It depends which wire you select, PTO, Battery charge protect, or resister or potentiometer. But yeah, high idle above 1250 rpm seems wasteful (on fuel) unless your talking PTO operation of a significant load.
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New User
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I want it for cold starts I have a short commute probably 5 miles at most (yes horrible for a diesel) I really use her on the weekends and it’s self high idling is a crap shoot I get barely 900 at 30 degrees and only @10 degrees have I seen 1200.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 71
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The BD High Idle Control Kit plugs into the PTO plug I believe behind the passenger side kick panel and gives you a rotary dial to select what idle speed you want. Plug and play, took me 20 minutes to put it in. $95.00
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New User
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Ok, so with the bd diesel one can you still use your up fitter switches
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2018
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It goes to high idle on remote start if I leave it on.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 565
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From: Durango, CO
I like my BD high idle kit too, it works as advertised and it’s great being able to dial in your rpm’s. I did, however, find a shortcoming for what I wanted to use it for. I have the dual alternators that put out around 380 amps. Well I thought idling up to 3000 rpms would be great during winching operations so the batteries aren’t getting blasted but you have to have the emergency brake engaged for it to work and that’s not good for a self recovery. I know it’s a safety feature and it can be bypassed but I haven’t figured it out yet. BD’s tech would not give me any solution, understandably so. Anybody out there have any ideas how to fool the system?
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
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From: BC Canada
Wapati, one click on the e-brake will set the switch for the high idle to work, but still allow it to drive you out of a hole without doing anything bad. E brake is not that sensitive on mine anyway, simple to test out.
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 618
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Having done a lot of recovery and some self recovery (I prefer to avoid getting myself stuck in the first place) I either run my winch controller across the hood and into the cab so I can operate the winch while also operating the vehicle or use the in-cab control switch I installed to run the winch in/out. It adds another level of complexity to multi-tasking, but there are few people I trust to run my winch when it is connected to my vehicle.
Also, unless you are nearing stall on your winch, it is never pulling the full 400 or so amps the winch may be rated for. Since we do a lot of solo exploration, my diesel off-road vehicle starts using both batteries using a solenoid to connect the two, but when it comes to winching, I only use a single battery. In the event I roast one battery, I still have the isolated second battery to start the vehicle with. Fortunately, in 20 years of off-roading, I've never actually damaged a battery by winching. Oh, and the alternator in that vehicle is rated at a whopping 80 amps so even with my high idle on that engine, the battery is doing the lions share of the work.
Also, unless you are nearing stall on your winch, it is never pulling the full 400 or so amps the winch may be rated for. Since we do a lot of solo exploration, my diesel off-road vehicle starts using both batteries using a solenoid to connect the two, but when it comes to winching, I only use a single battery. In the event I roast one battery, I still have the isolated second battery to start the vehicle with. Fortunately, in 20 years of off-roading, I've never actually damaged a battery by winching. Oh, and the alternator in that vehicle is rated at a whopping 80 amps so even with my high idle on that engine, the battery is doing the lions share of the work.