Notices
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Radiator fitment

 
  #16  
Old 02-09-2019, 01:25 AM
Jghake
Jghake is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Puyallup, WA
Posts: 166
Jghake is starting off with a positive reputation.
The blower fan for the cab works well, but the heat slider mechanism binds up one direction and I have to move it under the hood to make it go all the way.

The radiator fan clutch was bad when I bought the truck but it has a new functional one now.

I have not cleaned the outside of the radiator.
 
  #17  
Old 02-09-2019, 01:44 AM
Kramercd's Avatar
Kramercd
Kramercd is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Caraway, AR
Posts: 487
Kramercd is starting off with a positive reputation.
They make lots of nice products for cleaning radiators, one I think is call foaminator or some such similar, produces a thick foam that pushes dirt through the fins. But one of THE best and cheapest is dishsoap, I'm partial to duck degreasing dawn. I'll get tractor paint out of your hair and beard FYI. Be easier to clean with the fan shroud out of the way, mix up some dishsoap and water, heavy on the soap and spray it from the engine side. Don't use too heavy a spray to rinse it or you risk damaging the fins.

As far as heat, are all your vac lines in good shape? Ones in the dash arent as easy to check. Have a vac tester? Harbor Freight has a cheap brake bleeder/vac tester combo, could have a bad vacuum... uh what do they call them, actuators I believe. Have you checked to see if you have good flow through the heater core? If it's clogged that could indicate you do have sediment issues in your coolant system. Don't remember if I asked. Did you flush the radiator when you changed the coolant, and did you use distilled water when you refilled it?

Do you by chance have a temp probe to check your coolant temp? New temp sending unit is cheap enough, but its in a difficult spot.
 
  #18  
Old 02-09-2019, 04:26 AM
FuzzFace2's Avatar
FuzzFace2
FuzzFace2 is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Angier, NC
Posts: 9,721
FuzzFace2 is a name known to allFuzzFace2 is a name known to allFuzzFace2 is a name known to allFuzzFace2 is a name known to allFuzzFace2 is a name known to allFuzzFace2 is a name known to all
I did not read every detail but it does sound like you have air trapped in the system.
When I install a new Tstat I drill an 1/8" hole in the washer part to let air pass thru it the little bit of water that may pass will not hurt a thing.
If the Tstat gets mounted to the front of the manifold or head like on the 300 six put the hole at the top where the air will be.

When you full the system I like to get the front of the car / truck up as high as I can to get the air to the highest point the radiator.
Leave the cap off and start the motor and let it get up to temp. Felling the upper hose when it gets hot and the level drops the stat opened.
It may push a little coolant out or drop down or both. Top up the coolant and let it run more so the stat opens a few more times.
Is the heater turned to hot?
You can lower the front after it opens a few times and let it run more. Put the cap on it and take it for a drive and all should be good.

Now if you go checking the level when cold you will not see it right at the top it will be a few inches below and that is ok but you should see the level.
Dave ----
 
  #19  
Old 02-09-2019, 08:08 AM
Franklin2's Avatar
Franklin2
Franklin2 is offline
Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: New Market, VA
Posts: 43,419
Franklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant future
Originally Posted by Jghake View Post
I have a bleed screw in the top of my thermostat housing but I tried to open it and it started to strip so I gave up. I could probably get it open with penetrating oil if it would help me out.
Think about it a little bit. A bleed screw in the top of the thermostat housing is on top of the thermostat. That would do you no good, the air is trapped under the thermostat and the top of the engine. I bet the intake manifold area is completely dry and full of air. Older american cars didn't usually have bleed screws. You can help the situation out a little bit by pull the highest heater core hose off and filling the radiator till coolant starts coming out of the engine there, and then quickly putting the hose back on. Don't pull the heater hose off the core at the firewall, it's too easy to damage the heater core. You always cut the hose off the heater core, never twist and pull it off.

Even with pulling the heater hose off, you will still have some air in the top of the engine.

 
  #20  
Old 02-15-2019, 02:09 PM
Jghake
Jghake is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Puyallup, WA
Posts: 166
Jghake is starting off with a positive reputation.
I used a no spill (yeah right... What a mess...) Funnel kit and the temp isn't spiking on the dash gauge anymore. The charge meter has settled down as well. Now I can idle it, rev it, etc and the temp stays good.

I have the heat set to hot, and the fan set to high and I still never get warm air in the cab. The slider for the hot/cold just broke as well. Now the cable no longer moves when I move the slider. I felt it break off behind the dash. I can still manually adjust the flapper in the heater core housing to hot.

What should I try next?
 
  #21  
Old 02-15-2019, 03:19 PM
Franklin2's Avatar
Franklin2
Franklin2 is offline
Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: New Market, VA
Posts: 43,419
Franklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant future
Originally Posted by Jghake View Post
I used a no spill (yeah right... What a mess...) Funnel kit and the temp isn't spiking on the dash gauge anymore. The charge meter has settled down as well. Now I can idle it, rev it, etc and the temp stays good.

I have the heat set to hot, and the fan set to high and I still never get warm air in the cab. The slider for the hot/cold just broke as well. Now the cable no longer moves when I move the slider. I felt it break off behind the dash. I can still manually adjust the flapper in the heater core housing to hot.

What should I try next?
To fix the cable? The radiator quit overflowing correct?
 
  #22  
Old 02-15-2019, 03:23 PM
Jghake
Jghake is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Puyallup, WA
Posts: 166
Jghake is starting off with a positive reputation.
Originally Posted by Franklin2 View Post
To fix the cable? The radiator quit overflowing correct?
With the spill free funnel attached I let it idle. It bubbled for a bit, then sucked in fluid. I kept adding fluid until no bubbles. It stopped overflowing and the level in the funnel stopped changing. I turned the truck off, took off the funnel and put the cap back on. Only one of the heater core hoses gets warmer, but not as warm as I'd expect.
 
  #23  
Old 02-15-2019, 03:30 PM
Franklin2's Avatar
Franklin2
Franklin2 is offline
Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: New Market, VA
Posts: 43,419
Franklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant future
Your top radiator hose should get so hot you can't hold onto it for very long. Your heater hoses also. If one is getting just warm and the other is barely warm or not warm at all, your heater core is clogged. You can drain the coolant again (you do not have to drain it all, just a gallon or so) and pull both heater hoses off the engine. Get a garden hose and stick it on one of the heater hoses and try and flush it out. Grab the other heater hose and flush it the other way. Sometimes this will clear it out, sometimes you have to replace the heater core.

You will get better and better at draining and refilling the coolant. on this old truck. There will always be something leaking or needing service.
 
  #24  
Old 02-25-2019, 07:34 PM
Jghake
Jghake is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Puyallup, WA
Posts: 166
Jghake is starting off with a positive reputation.
I completely flushed the system today. I drained it completely, disconnected the heater core hoses, removed the thermostat, then hooked up my garden hose to the heater core hoses one at a time. I was able to find a 5/8" hose barb at the farm supply store designed to mend a hose. It allowed me to hook the garden hose directly up to the heater core hoses. The sludge that came out was thick, dark, and extremely nasty. I flushed it until the water was completely clean then swapped hoses and did the same.

Then I replaced the heater core hoses, but installed one of the Peak radiator flush and fill kits, put the diverter neck in the top of the radiator with a length of 1" ID clear tubing into a bucket. Then I started filling the system from the garden hose attached to this new fitting on the heater core hose. Once it filled, then I started the truck and let it idle while I kept the hose running. Eventually it started spilling into the bucket, and was very dark still. I ran water through the truck this way until it came out the top of the radiator completely clear then drained the entire cooling system. Then I drilled a 3/32" hole into the flange of the thermostat, installed it then filled the truck back up with coolant and distilled water.

Now the temp gauge barely goes into "Normal" no matter how long it runs, or how I drive it won't get any hotter than this. I am getting warm air from the vents in the cab now, but it's only slightly warm. I would think it should be hotter. I have a factory temp thermostat in there I think. I replaced it when I bought the truck about a year ago.
 
  #25  
Old 02-25-2019, 09:38 PM
kr98664
kr98664 is online now
Posting Guru
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,170
kr98664 has a great reputation on FTE.kr98664 has a great reputation on FTE.kr98664 has a great reputation on FTE.kr98664 has a great reputation on FTE.kr98664 has a great reputation on FTE.
Originally Posted by Jghake View Post
Now the temp gauge barely goes into "Normal" no matter how long it runs, or how I drive it won't get any hotter than this. I am getting warm air from the vents in the cab now, but it's only slightly warm. I would think it should be hotter. I have a factory temp thermostat in there I think. I replaced it when I bought the truck about a year ago.
Wow, sounds like you're making a lot of progress. Keep chipping away at it.

On my truck, the temp gauge settles in at the O in NORMAL. The heater output? It will roast you out of there. My wife, who suffers from digitalis popsicallis, loves the truck in the winter.

If your temp gauge barely reaches the normal band, that sounds like a defective thermostat. Before you insist the part is good because it's new, let me plug in my electric violin so we can all sing along on the chorus. I also need to warm up my silk screen press, as I'd like to sell custom printed T-shirts for the event, too.

The preceding was industrial strength satire. All I'm trying to convey is don't assume a part is good just because it's new. I've had plenty of parts bad from stock. Thermostats are one of the worst. I've learned the hard way to always test a new thermostat before installation. It's easy to do, suspending it from a piece of wire in a big pot of water on the stove. Measure the water temperature as the pot heats up. The thermostat should be fully open at the rated temperature.
 
  #26  
Old 02-25-2019, 09:42 PM
Kramercd's Avatar
Kramercd
Kramercd is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Caraway, AR
Posts: 487
Kramercd is starting off with a positive reputation.
Originally Posted by kr98664 View Post
Wow, sounds like you're making a lot of progress. Keep chipping away at it.

On my truck, the temp gauge settles in at the O in NORMAL. The heater output? It will roast you out of there. My wife, who suffers from digitalis popsicallis, loves the truck in the winter.

If your temp gauge barely reaches the normal band, that sounds like a defective thermostat. Before you insist the part is good because it's new, let me plug in my electric violin so we can all sing along on the chorus. I also need to warm up my silk screen press, as I'd like to sell custom printed T-shirts for the event, too.

.
ctubutis What's the policy on repping for laughs? This is the third or fourth time I've refrained because I don't know. Apologies for being irrelevant.

 
  #27  
Old 02-26-2019, 07:08 AM
FuzzFace2's Avatar
FuzzFace2
FuzzFace2 is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Angier, NC
Posts: 9,721
FuzzFace2 is a name known to allFuzzFace2 is a name known to allFuzzFace2 is a name known to allFuzzFace2 is a name known to allFuzzFace2 is a name known to allFuzzFace2 is a name known to all
Originally Posted by kr98664 View Post
Wow, sounds like you're making a lot of progress. Keep chipping away at it.

On my truck, the temp gauge settles in at the O in NORMAL. The heater output? It will roast you out of there. My wife, who suffers from digitalis popsicallis, loves the truck in the winter.

If your temp gauge barely reaches the normal band, that sounds like a defective thermostat. Before you insist the part is good because it's new, let me plug in my electric violin so we can all sing along on the chorus. I also need to warm up my silk screen press, as I'd like to sell custom printed T-shirts for the event, too.

The preceding was industrial strength satire. All I'm trying to convey is don't assume a part is good just because it's new. I've had plenty of parts bad from stock. Thermostats are one of the worst. I've learned the hard way to always test a new thermostat before installation. It's easy to do, suspending it from a piece of wire in a big pot of water on the stove. Measure the water temperature as the pot heats up. The thermostat should be fully open at the rated temperature.
Originally Posted by Kramercd View Post
ctubutis What's the policy on repping for laughs? This is the third or fourth time I've refrained because I don't know. Apologies for being irrelevant.
KR does come up with some good ones

Back to our program:
How hot is the upper radiator hose getting by feel?
Then check the 2 heater hoses do they feel the same temp as the radiator hose?
If they feel the same but not getting heat have you checked on cleaning the face of the heater core?
I know the AC trucks et a lot of junk down in there and block air flow wonder if yours could be the same?
Also IIRC the heater temp control is a door that moves could the arm be moving but not the door?
Dave ----
 
  #28  
Old 02-26-2019, 09:32 AM
ctubutis's Avatar
ctubutis
ctubutis is online now
Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Denver Metro Area, CO
Posts: 21,608
ctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputationctubutis has a superb reputation
The policy is that you need to distribute a certain number of rep points to other users before you can re-rep any one person. I seem to remember the number being 10 at one time but I don't know if it's still that way.

The rep system we have here is due to be replaced with a Like system but that change keeps getting delayed.
 
  #29  
Old 02-26-2019, 10:17 AM
kr98664
kr98664 is online now
Posting Guru
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,170
kr98664 has a great reputation on FTE.kr98664 has a great reputation on FTE.kr98664 has a great reputation on FTE.kr98664 has a great reputation on FTE.kr98664 has a great reputation on FTE.
Originally Posted by Kramercd View Post
ctubutis What's the policy on repping for laughs?
Um, you do realize it's considered poor form to encourage me, right? Before you know it, my head starts swelling and I'm trapped indoors for a while because I can't get my cranium through a standard doorway.

All seriousness aside, back to the low heat situation. There are many possible scenarios that could be at play. I mentioned low coolant temperature (from a defective thermostat) because that is one of the more likely ones.

However, it could be something else, perhaps a combination of two faults. Let's say coolant temperature is actually normal, but the indication system is reading low. Meanwhile, the heater core is coated internally with scale, or blocked externally with pine needles, leaves, a small rodent nest, etc. Either way, heat isn't getting transferred from the coolant (plenty hot) into the heater plenum. The end result is low heat.

So if you really want to be sure, before loading expensive items into the parts catapult (Pull!), check the actual coolant temperature. Beg, borrow or steal an infrared thermometer. An el cheapo model will work just fine, maybe set you back $20. With the engine fully warmed up, check the temperature on the metal at the radiator inlet. It should be pretty close to the rated temp on the thermostat. If not, the thermostat most likely isn't opening fully.

If the actual temperature is close to the thermostat rating, then you can branch out from there. For example, turn the heat setting and fan to high. Compare the two heater hoses. If you're getting normal heat transfer into the cabin, you should see a drop of approximately 30F. Less than that, and the heater core may be blocked externally (poor airflow) or internally due to scale buildup. Scale buildup inside a heater core acts like insulation, and limits normal heat transfer into the cabin. Note I didn't say just rush out and replace the heater core. To recap, make sure the coolant temp is normal at the radiator inlet. Then compare the heater in and out lines. Then check for external blockage. Only after that should you replace the heater core.


 
  #30  
Old 02-26-2019, 10:49 AM
Kramercd's Avatar
Kramercd
Kramercd is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Caraway, AR
Posts: 487
Kramercd is starting off with a positive reputation.
My money is on rats nest in the heater core, last two I opened up had them, but they did sit for years it looks like.
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - About Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.