Dustless blaster or sand Blaster?
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Dustless blaster or sand Blaster?
which do you think would be best to do in my driveway? also, best rust inhibitor recommendations? been looking at eastwoods soda blasting, and their dust blasters for a project
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From: Minnesota
If you are doing one project, I would look into the dustless blasting option. All you do is pay someone to show up and blast your parts. There is a rust inhibitor in the mix so you would be good to go. Once done let it dry and blow it off and get a good coat of epoxy primer on it as soon as you can. I went through all the work to get a sandblasting set-up and ended up sanding my frame by hand. I am hoping to use the sand blaster on the bottom of the cab and bed so it wasn't wasted money.
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If you are doing one project, I would look into the dustless blasting option. All you do is pay someone to show up and blast your parts. There is a rust inhibitor in the mix so you would be good to go. Once done let it dry and blow it off and get a good coat of epoxy primer on it as soon as you can. I went through all the work to get a sandblasting set-up and ended up sanding my frame by hand. I am hoping to use the sand blaster on the bottom of the cab and bed so it wasn't wasted money.
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Joined: Jul 2017
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From: San Jose, CA
I think dustless is simply better all around. I can't think of any reason, other than perhaps acquisition cost, that would sway me towards a dry mix setup.
Reasons are pretty basic. Less mess for one. Fewer complaints from the neighbors if this is even an issue for you? Or fewer complaints from the rest of the family in case you dust them out!
Also the liquid in the dustless style keeps the metal surfaces cooler. It's very easy to warp a rare hood or grille, or not-easy-to-replace roof panel. And I mean VERY easy if you're not careful and hit them from an acute angle and at lower working pressures.
Also the anti-rust part is a huge deal. I'm guessing dry blasting does seem to leave some sort of protection in place to keep metal from rusting for a day or so that I've seen. But an inhibitor that's good for what? Like a week or more maybe? That could be priceless.
Good luck.
Paul
Reasons are pretty basic. Less mess for one. Fewer complaints from the neighbors if this is even an issue for you? Or fewer complaints from the rest of the family in case you dust them out!
Also the liquid in the dustless style keeps the metal surfaces cooler. It's very easy to warp a rare hood or grille, or not-easy-to-replace roof panel. And I mean VERY easy if you're not careful and hit them from an acute angle and at lower working pressures.
Also the anti-rust part is a huge deal. I'm guessing dry blasting does seem to leave some sort of protection in place to keep metal from rusting for a day or so that I've seen. But an inhibitor that's good for what? Like a week or more maybe? That could be priceless.
Good luck.
Paul
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From: Brentwood,CA
If you are doing one project, I would look into the dustless blasting option. All you do is pay someone to show up and blast your parts. There is a rust inhibitor in the mix so you would be good to go. Once done let it dry and blow it off and get a good coat of epoxy primer on it as soon as you can. I went through all the work to get a sandblasting set-up and ended up sanding my frame by hand. I am hoping to use the sand blaster on the bottom of the cab and bed so it wasn't wasted money.
Good advice here, pay someone to do the blasting. Make sure they use a rust inhibitor in the mix. I was able to rent a wet blaster from sunbelt for the week. Works great cost me 1k overall and did everything I needed. Be warned you will end up with hundreds of pounds of waste media and debris so plan accordingly. Another thing to be cautious of depending on your state and local is every bit of the material is classified hazardous waste and will test lead positive especially when used on older vehicles.
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Good advice here, pay someone to do the blasting. Make sure they use a rust inhibitor in the mix. I was able to rent a wet blaster from sunbelt for the week. Works great cost me 1k overall and did everything I needed. Be warned you will end up with hundreds of pounds of waste media and debris so plan accordingly. Another thing to be cautious of depending on your state and local is every bit of the material is classified hazardous waste and will test lead positive especially when used on older vehicles.
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Lead Driver
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From: Ohio
I had Dustless blasting come last summer to do some work on my Mack. Had the rims/hubs all done so I could paint them.
Yes, it is basically "dustless", but it is not a clean operation. The videos on Youtube are kinda deceiving. I had it done in my gravel driveway and it left quite a mess. All that abrasive has to go somewhere. I guess if it was on concrete you could sweep it up?
I too was going to rent a dry system and do it myself, but got a quote from a guy and figure let him do it. Was well worth it. He used an inhibitor so the parts didn't rust.
Yes, it is basically "dustless", but it is not a clean operation. The videos on Youtube are kinda deceiving. I had it done in my gravel driveway and it left quite a mess. All that abrasive has to go somewhere. I guess if it was on concrete you could sweep it up?
I too was going to rent a dry system and do it myself, but got a quote from a guy and figure let him do it. Was well worth it. He used an inhibitor so the parts didn't rust.
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Lead Driver
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From: San Jose, CA
More and more when I see someone on one of these shows (often sponsored by the Dustless Blasting company) they are doing the job over a tarp to catch much of the junk that's blasted off. Seems pretty effective actually. Keeps a lot of the junk semi-isolated and easier to work with later.
Not really sure what you'd do with it, but the more control you have over something even remotely nasty the better.
Paul
Not really sure what you'd do with it, but the more control you have over something even remotely nasty the better.
Paul
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Ohio
I suppose it all depends on the item you are working on. The abrasive and the water are coming out at 120 psi and blow everywhere. It's not like you're sprinkling your garden. The water does keep the dust cloud to a minimum, but it still blows everywhere.
The product the guy I used was just basically glass dust. He said it was "biodegradable". It has been slowly working it's way down in my gravel drive.
The product the guy I used was just basically glass dust. He said it was "biodegradable". It has been slowly working it's way down in my gravel drive.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Ohio
I watched this fellow dump the stuff in the water tank. Though I did paint everything that day it didn't really matter. I don't think it will keep it from ever rusting, but keep the flash rust to a minimum.
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