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I'm replacing the front wheel bearings on my 78 f150 4x4 and I think I have some parts missing I've watched a couple videos and it looks like there are 2 sets of bearings for each hub is that correct when I took my passenger side hub off I only found one set of bearings in it if there is suposed to be 2 that would explain why it was shaking on that side so badly.
Yes there are 2 set of bearings per hub. 1 on the outside that comes off with after you take off the lock in/out off, the outer lock nut, washer, axle adjusting nut, hub. On the back side of the hub is a tap in seal and on the inside of that (towards the hub) is the inner bearing. And usually new races come with new bearings. And you need to replace that inner (back side of the hub) tap in seal. Replacing the bearings is easy, the race's are a little more complicated, but doable.
Yes, the inner bearings are held in by the seal. A long punch can be used to drive the old races out. Then flip the old races over to help drive the new ones in. Since you have it apart, also change out the spindle bearings and their seals and also check your u-joints, It is a messy job, so do it all if you can. If you decide to replace the U-joints, be careful when reinstalling the drive shafts into the axle housing/pumpkin. There are seals at the pumpkin that hold the gear oil in that can be damaged, (Don't ask me how I know/one of my next projects) and allows the gear oil to leak out.
BTW that is one of the best diagrams I have seen. Thanks 77&79F250. It is going in my repair notes file.
Yes there are 2 set of bearings per hub. 1 on the outside that comes off with after you take off the lock in/out off, the outer lock nut, washer, axle adjusting nut, hub. On the back side of the hub is a tap in seal and on the inside of that (towards the hub) is the inner bearing. And usually new races come with new bearings. And you need to replace that inner (back side of the hub) tap in seal. Replacing the bearings is easy, the race's are a little more complicated, but doable.
thanks the picture helped me a lot
And john89 thanks for the advice I'm going to take it and do the spindle bearings at least while I'm at it I plan on redoing the whole front suspention when I get my tax refund
Have you read through the proper bearing adjustment procedure too gogeta? Very important to do it right on these, and it's not like your standard two-wheel drive or car bearing adjustment.
And I have not found a youtube video yet that gets it 100% correct. Yet...
If you don't have a book with the full description (but you should!) we can run it down for you here.
"Dana 44 front-If your truck has half ton internal hubs, chances are you have the three piece spindle nuts. The inner nut sets the tension on the bearing.
The lock washer slides down the slot on the spindle and a pin on the inner nut goes in a hole in the lock washer, and the outer nut holds it all in place. Sometimes, you get lucky and that lock washer slides right down and the pin in the nut goes right in a hole in the lock washer, sometimes it doesn't. If you have the 3 piece spindle nut, a good trick is to try the lock washer and if it doesn't line up, flip it over and try the other side. The holes are lined up a bit different when the lock washer is flipped over. Often this will do the trick, but sometimes nothing seems to work. Especially, if you are trying to fix a broken axle on the trail.
Some Ford Dana 44s use a self locking spindle nut that does not require aligning the pin and makes installation much easier. The Ford spindle nuts eliminate these problems. The Ford spindle nut ratchets down and locks on every click. You can set the perfect load on the bearing with no worries of aligning the pin. You have to press in on the spindle socket to engage the teeth in the ratcheting nut. Works a bit different, but easy enough. The only down side to the Ford nuts is the cost. They run about $15.50 (old prices) brand new at the Ford dealership. The jobber price is probably a lot better than that, but most of us ,like myself, have to pay retail. It probably is not too hard to get the nuts at the junk yard, but to save time, I just purchased two nuts brand new at the dealership. My local dealership had them in stock, so there was no waiting. When I went to the dealership, I asked for the nuts for a '94 Ford F-150. I'm not sure what range of vehicles they might have been used in. The Ford part number is E7TZ-1A134-A. One thing I had to do with the Ford spindle nut is remove some material on the tab that slides in the slot in the spindle. I guess the Ford spindle has a wider slot it it. I did this with an air cut off tool, but a file or a hack saw would work."
Chilton manual 1st 2 pics, Ford dealership maint manual last 2...This look correct Paul & FTE community?
I got mostly every thing back together but seamed to be haveing an issue getting the lock out assembly far back enough I can get the inner snap ring on but can't get the assybly back far enough to get the outer snap ring on the one you have to use pliers to remove am I missing something
If it is what I am thinking, you can use a screwdriver as a pry bar, and push out on the U-joint to give you just a tad more space. Probably gonna need an extra set of hands to do it.
...Chilton manual 1st 2 pics, Ford dealership maint manual last 2...This look correct Paul & FTE community?
Exackry. Very consistent at least with the first initial setting. And I JUST KNEW I'd seen that lower torque spec before!
Many books list different final torque settings, from that low of 50lbs to as high as 150lbs. BIG discrepancy.
However, I have in the past used the 50lb rating and never had a wheel bearing come lose. But I now use 75-100 lbs as my tightening torque and also have good end results with the final bearing free-play.
As long as you use the proper socket and NEVER try to use a hammer an chisel like some people did (and still do!) you'll be in good shape.
Exackry. Very consistent at least with the first initial setting. And I JUST KNEW I'd seen that lower torque spec before!
Many books list different final torque settings, from that low of 50lbs to as high as 150lbs. BIG discrepancy.
However, I have in the past used the 50lb rating and never had a wheel bearing come lose. But I now use 75-100 lbs as my tightening torque and also have good end results with the final bearing free-play.
As long as you use the proper socket and NEVER try to use a hammer an chisel like some people did (and still do!) you'll be in good shape.
Paul
Someone at one time already used a chisel on them my socket had a hard time locking on to the nuts I would buy new ones but need to get it out of the garage so I can fix my wife's car ill get them next time I'm in there I tourqed the first nut to 50 lbs the second to 90 lbs
If you left it at 50lbs before torquing down the lock nut, you'll definitely need to get back in there before you drive it anywhere. But if you backed off, you're good for now.
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