If its making bad compression it may indeed not be able to start...

 

There are hoses and lines and fittings that can and will leak, valve covers not so much, they way they're built it doesn't happen. Clean it up good so you have a clean base to start with then we'll find out what's leaking. You can open the top of the HPOP reservoir and check the oil level, it should be within 3/4" or so from the top.

 

If you're using Torque Pro, have you installed the Ford PID / Sensor list? You don't have to be connected to the truck to do this: within Torque Pro, select: Settings > Manage extra PIDs/Sensors > (three vertical dots at top right) > Add predefined set > Ford (Incl PowerStroke). Many users here use other self-defined sets, but these work well.
From there, once you set up your screen, select PIDs that are prefaced with [FORD] for best results. Common ones for hard / no start issues are Battery; Revs; Fuel Injector Pulse Width (FIPW); Injection Control Pressure (ICP); ICP DC; Engine Oil Temp (EOT); Exhaust Back Pressure (EBP); Manifold Air Pressure (MAP). Of those, If the PCM doesn't see >400 psi ICP and ~10Vdc it won't tell the IDM to fire the injectors, so nothing will happen. It's sounds like you're getting something, ans as Mark said it will run on six cylinders. I know for a fact these things will run on only one bank and haul a bed full of gravel (8' bed, well over a ton w/ the axles riding on the bump stops in the hill in upstate NY). Low / no boost isn't an issue for starting, but low / old / cold / crappy oil can be. Nebraska, so it's cold there. If you watch the battery voltage when you first turn on the key - not cranking - working glow plugs will drop your battery voltage to at least 11Vdc or so, but after 2 minutes as mentioned, you should hear a click as the GP solenoid opens and the batt voltage should climb back to 12.4-12.6Vdc or so. A good block heater can keep you EOT 20-30° above ambient, so that helps too.

 

there are the logs. I noticed while taking off the turbo piping and intake that there was some oil in both the intercooler piping and the intake. There was probably double the oil in the intake. That might be common for an 18 year old stock turbo but I thought I would throw that out there

I also noticed a sort of clicking sound coming from what sounded like inside of the dash behind the drivers vent. I took a video of it but do not know how to get the video on here

 

The crank case vent (CCV) dumps into the intake system through a plastic collar ahead of the turbo, that is where your intake oil is coming from. It's not a problem (unless it's due to excessive blow by).

 

While draining the fuel bowl(couldnt find the hose so just drained into a pan) I noticed the connector going into the fuel bowl on the back side had some bare wire. I pulled on it and it came out of the connector a good eighth inch. What I does this plug control and could it cause problems?

 

It is the wiring for the fuel bowl heater and the 'water in fuel' indicator. It is a common source of problems and it typically blows fuse #30 under the dash, which also feeds your PCM. Just disconnect it and tape it up so it doesn't short out for now. Most just leave it disconnected.

 

Okay, most likely final update for the night. Drained the fuel bowl completely just to get rid of any bad fuel if there was any. Turned the key over and got under the truck. The fuel pump ran for a few seconds then stopped. But, as it was running it sounded like there was about half air and half fuel being sucked in. But since my fuel bowl was completely full and it was still not starting I'm not too sure if that is the issue. I read that powerstrokes have an electric fuel pump that is attached to the gas pedal? Is that true and could that be causing issues? I read up on this because if I floored it while cranking it would sputter but never completely start. Valve covers will be off tomorrow and injector wiring will get a thorough clean and observation

 

Negative, fuel pump not connected to fuel pedal and I'm not so sure that pushing on the fuel pedal while cranking actually does anything. I would like to hear from someone who knows for certain on that.

 

Okay so after reading around I think I have an idea of where to start tomorrow. The idm supposedly needs 10.5v to turn on the injectors. As documented in my previous reply when it is cranking it only gets up to 10v. Now I know it's a long shot but would that small .5v be enough to not get the current flowing to the injectors?

 

 

got one on the charger now on slow and I'll put the other one on on fast tomorrow when I wake up. I also have 2 really powerful blue point jump starters that are supposed to be able to start diesels no problem. If my voltage does not get better I will connect those jumpers and see If pushing more amps will help at all

 

 

I assumed they were because I had heard a ticking noise from the relay location. And from what I've heard that means it is functioning. BUT when draining the fuel I did notice that one of the main terminals was corroded like crazy. I did not do anything to it but a good clean could only help. As for checking each glowplug I have not had the valve covers off yet to get in and check

 

You dont have to pull valve covers to ohm out glow plugs, just unplug the harness going into each valve cover and ohm out the glow plugs from there