You've got the rare two-year run flange hubs. Biggest benefit of these hubs is that they simply pull off once you have the wheel off, no fiddling around with screws, c-clips, and the like. Well, actually- there is one big c-clip on the end of each axle shaft but they aren't too hard to get off. You have to take off the c-clip, then the big washer, then push in on the ratcheting spindle nut in order to loosen it.


Dustin Siebert
mrlaserboy(No Email Addresses In Posts!)
Registry: http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=201
Home Page: http://www.superford.org/users/ylobronc/index.html
'88 Bronco XLT 302EFI/AOD/BW1356/44IFS with 8 lugs(open)/10.25 FF(Lockright locker)/4.56/6" Superlift/2" BL/35's-street/38.5's-trails
2 BIG BRONCOS 4X4 CLUB - GREAT LAKES CHAPTER http://www.2bigbroncos.org

 

I'm just wondering how long a $12 re-man rotor is going to last? Assuming price is reflective of quality (not always true), then for all the time and effort you expend on this job, wouldn't you want a higher quality caliper?

 

I put two remanufactured calipers on my truck about 5 years ago and they work good. You can't buy the parts to do it yourself cheaper than buying the whole thing. I attribute low cost to the number of ford trucks on the road and demand.

 

I'm going to give it a go tomorrow. I got a quote for $575. I can get all the parts for less than half that. While I'm in there I'll redo the wheel bearings as well.

Wish me luck...and be ready for questions.

I'm nervous about getting the hub/rotor off.

 

Part of the reason the reman. calipers are so cheap is because they're the same units that are used on all of fords full sized cars, trucks, and vans. I even know alot of Mustang guys who have swapped over to these for better braking performance.

Jim
https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/3aaa4bac6f539876.jpg
1993 F150 2WD
6" Pro-Comp Stage II Lift w/35's
Auburn Pro-Series Diff. w/4.30 gears
http://www.ProjectTrailDawg.com

 

It sounds like the brake hose may have collapsed. That would trap pressure at the caliper.

 

it definatly sounds like a collapsed brake hose,the first thing i would do is put 2 hoses on...Dave 1996 F150 5.0 5SP 2WD

 

Update>>

OK. New rotors, calipers, pads, inner and outer wheel bearings and seals are in.

Sadly, I couldn't finish the job since most of my tools are metric and wouldn't fit the bleed screw on the calipers. I tried my 11mm and began the rounding process...so I stopped.

Tomorrow, I'll bleed everything and see how it goes. BTW, I saw a light on my dash indicating that I have rear anti lock brakes. Anything special I need to do to bleed them? I had no idea this truck had ABS. Is this another problem I'm going to have to face?

I bought, but didn't replace, the brake lines because they both looked fine. Not too mention I couldn't seem to get them off. Maybe once I get some SAE tools I'll go ahead and replace them too.

As far as a collapsed brake line goes, wouldn't I be able to tell when I bleed the calipers? I can tell you that both leaked like champs when I disconnected them.

I can tell that the rotors and calipers were the originals as are the brake lines. I'm still thinking since I have the new brake lines to go ahead and do it. How do you get them off?

Thanks for all of your help and suggestions. I'm glad I did it myself. I got some good before and after photos to remind me of what wouldn't have happened had I paid someone to do it.

At least when you do it yourself, you know everything was done the way you wanted it done. PLUS, I saved about $300 from the quotes I received!!

 

The bleeding process is the same as if it didnt have Abs in this case , just make sure the Master Cyl doesnt run dry . Start at the RR , then LR , RF & finish off with the LF . The Flexible Rubber brake lines simply bolt to steel lines & on the calipers

 

I would say line trouble happens on rare ocassions. If the lines look good I would leave them alone. They sometimes don't want to come loose from the hard line connection on the frame and you end up replacing the hard line too.

 

13 year old rubber hoses are literally waiting to burst, especially with new parts on the system that will effectively raise operating pressures when you stomp on the brakes. Bet if you flex them gently you'll see a lot of cracks in the rubber.

If ya got'em already, go ahead and replace them. Y0U'LL sleep better..

 

I have that same ABS light on my truck, and this past winter I went out in the snow to see how the ABS worked, and all 4 wheels locked up in the parking lot. So much for ABS!


88 F-150 4X4 XLT Lariat w/5.0 EFI 5 spd (DAILY DRIVER)
86 Ranger 2WD w/2.3L EFI 5 spd to be 351W 4bbl C4 (NEW TOY- DETAILS WHEN FINISHED)
85 Old Cutlass Supreme 350/TH350 Holley 4160,Edelbrock Performer intake, el-cheapo headers, General Kinetics Cam 270H series cam, 15.588 best 1/4 mile with original 10 bolt 2.41 gears (OLD TOY)

 

I agree to change the brake lines. I went through the same nightmare and replaced two calipers for nothing. The problem was that the inside of the brake line was peeling and blocking the flow.

 

Damn...same thing.

I finished up today and took her for a run. Got home and smoke was coming from both front wheel wells. Maybe there was some residual fluids/grease from all the work I did or maybe (probably) the problem isn't fixed.

I didn't replace the brake hoses. I couldn't see how to get them off. I wouldn't see how they could cause this though.

Either the brakes are still sticking, or the problem isn't with my brakes.

The only things left to change are the master cylinder, power brake booster, and the brake lines. Everything else is brand new.

I'm going to see what a new master cylinder costs. At this point I'm still well under the estimate given to me to do this. Plus I have new wheel bearings and seals to boot.

My frustration level is rising...

 

BRAKE LINES,the rubber ones trust us.



87 f-250
" if you are going to have a bear, it might as well be a grizzly"
4.9 granny tranny 4.11 gears