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The D plug on the alternator, one of those should have power all the time, I believe the orange with blue stripe one. The other should have power with the key on, I believe it's green with a red stripe.
If those aren't true the alternator won't charge.
I also believe there's a loop pigtail in a connector behind the passenger battery, this is like a delete bypass for trucks that don't have the 2nd alternator option. My understanding is if this loop is broken (like rodents chewing) then the alternator will not charge.
thanks, I will check that as well.
I am getting voltage coming from the alternator, just not enough.
If I was looking at the correct secondary alternator wiring, mine didn't have a wire/loop pig tail, rather just a dummy plug so I don't think that's the issue.
Jack, I just tested the pig tail/harness that you showed in the video and the one wire had the same voltage as the battery with the key off and the other had zero until I turned the key on, which then showed approximately the same (like you and seijirou said should be). The wiring doesn't look spectacular, in fact I could see a pin hole in the shielding (exposing the copper just slightly) where the green wire goes into the alternator plug but I wiggled it, and everything else around quite a bit and it never changed voltage or lost the connection so seems like everything is checking out how it should... I'm just surprised the alt could/would have failed? Does that seem like what happened or is there anything else I can try?
From this side of the screen, I'd say alternator. Did it work during initial install?
Yes, it was working, I was getting 14.5v. Drove it about 6 times then it sat for 3 days and went to take the truck yesterday and found dead batteries... thought it was a parasitic issue but after getting them charged and truck running, I checked with a multimeter and realized I was having a charging issue.
With all the prior discussion of counterfeit L-N's it wouldn't hurt just to answer the question.
I got it from a diesel mechanic that I go to occasionally. It's a very reputable shop in town and he claims to order them direct from Lerce Neville. I'm actually heading to the shop now and he said he will swap it out for me.
So removing the pulley was a major pain. Tapped wooden wedges to not scar it all up with large screwdrivers all around and slowly tapped it off.
Question: does the pulley get seated all the way till it bottoms out on the shaft? It seemed to line up well with the belt I guess and figure it has to be bottomed out for the nut to tighten but man, that pulley is tight going over the shaft. That's how I did it before by using the impact driver. Maybe I'll leave the pulley in the freezer for a while and see if it will just fall in place.
Haha, you are very right about it shrinking the pulley, doh. Glad I was too lazy to get up and do that.
I can get the nut on/off easy with an impact but the pulley is very tight on the shaft. Have to hit it with the impact quite a bit before it finally seats all the way.
Going to go slap this thing in before bed and hope I'm getting full juice.
PS even though this is a quick and easy swap I wasn't looking forward to working outside and take my gloves off to flip the tensioner lever. Come to find out it's not too bad of you do it with a warm engine acting like a giant hand warmer.
I was thinking about you today working in the cold. Not the best time.
No it's not, -10 right now with the wind chill.
Wow, I set the pulley on the floor heater vent while I typed that last post and got my boots on. Went to put the the pulley on and it slipped all the way on. Will know shortly if I had a bad alternator.
01-24-2019, 03:41 PM
