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Recently, my ignition switch has been getting stuck. Sometimes badly, sometimes not at all.
I'll put the key in, but won't be able to turn it without wiggling, jiggling etc. other times it'll go right in and turn without any issue.
Key still works in the door fine. So it's not that the key is worn out.
Time for a new switch? Just a lock cylinder?
If I have to replace the ignition switch/ cylinder, how to I make the door locks match? They're sold in sets? Seems like a lot of work to switch both doors
It sounds like to me that your lock cylinder and/or keys are worn. Are they original to the truck? If the it's just the key that's worn, I locksmith might be able to cut you a new set. I don't know if you would need to take the cylinder to them or not. I work in a prison, and am very familiar with the "key jiggle" to open worn locks. Not a lot of information, but I hope it helps.
Buy a new cylinder, then take it to a lock shop, the locksmith can change the 5 tumblers so the door keys match.
You could save some coin and do it yourself.
There a cover over the tumblers, pry it off, remove the tumblers from the new cylinder, then remove each tumbler from the old cylinder, install in the same location in the new cylinder.
'Course by now the old tumblers are probably worn, so...
C9AZ-11582-A (Motorcraft SW-814): Cylinder w/keys is the same: 1967/72 F100/750; 1969/74 E100/300 // 1965/69 Galaxie/LTD/Thunderbird; 1967/69 Fairlane/Mustang/Cougar/Comet; 1967/70 Falcon.
Available from Ford, repro parts sellers and auto parts stores.
It sounds like to me that your lock cylinder and/or keys are worn. Are they original to the truck? If the it's just the key that's worn, I locksmith might be able to cut you a new set. I don't know if you would need to take the cylinder to them or not. I work in a prison, and am very familiar with the "key jiggle" to open worn locks. Not a lot of information, but I hope it helps.
Friend of mine is a professional locksmith. Been doing it for 30 years. He made me a new key that was "fatter" than the one I had. It helped, but only slightly. It probably needs a new cylinder.
Buy a new cylinder, then take it to a lock shop, the locksmith can change the 5 tumblers so the door keys match.
You could save some coin and do it yourself.
There a cover over the tumblers, pry it off, remove the tumblers from the new cylinder, then remove each tumbler from the old cylinder, install in the same location in the new cylinder.
'Course by now the old tumblers are probably worn, so...
C9AZ-11582-A (Motorcraft SW-814): Cylinder w/keys is the same: 1967/72 F100/750; 1969/74 E100/300 // 1965/69 Galaxie/LTD/Thunderbird; 1967/69 Fairlane/Mustang/Cougar/Comet; 1967/70 Falcon.
Available from Ford, repro parts sellers and auto parts stores.
It's always possible that the switch itself is locking up too. They do wear out, and things can jam up inside what that happens.
I think more often than not it's the cylinder, as everybody is thinking. I wonder if it's worth testing first, perhaps by removing the cylinder and using a medium sized screwdriver to turn the plastic innards of the switch?
Is the binding happening often enough to be reasonably sure it will happen just about any time? Or does it only happen now and then?
Of course, there's no safety/security factor at that point, but it's very usable that way if you're careful to put the screwdriver in the slot and always note what position the switch is in.
Do all the detents still work and click when/where expected? If so, a screwdriver would work.
It's always possible that the switch itself is locking up too. They do wear out, and things can jam up inside what that happens.
I think more often than not it's the cylinder, as everybody is thinking. I wonder if it's worth testing first, perhaps by removing the cylinder and using a medium sized screwdriver to turn the plastic innards of the switch?
Is the binding happening often enough to be reasonably sure it will happen just about any time? Or does it only happen now and then?
Of course, there's no safety/security factor at that point, but it's very usable that way if you're careful to put the screwdriver in the slot and always note what position the switch is in.
Do all the detents still work and click when/where expected? If so, a screwdriver would work.
Good luck. Whichever way you run it down.
Paul
It will happen almost anytime. The switch aspect works properly, detents correct in all positions. Although the spring that would return it to run from start is a bit weak. So I kinda have to help it go back when I start it.
I suppose it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace both the switch and the cylinder.
I removed the cylinder. Switch works fine with screwdriver. Cylinder is still locking up when I have it in my hands and try it. I ordered a new motorcraft cylinder from O'Reilly. So I'll get that and probably try switching the pins over.
I used to think the same way about replacing parts. But that was before so many of them turned to crap!
These days it's more common to hear about new part failure on the internet more often than most other subjects. And stupid stuff too, like switches literally falling apart after a few uses, starter relays failing after the first week, or first few starts, voltage regulators bad right out of the box, and ignition modules that fail quickly.
Luckily ignition switches are fairly simple products, so perhaps the percentage of failures is low in spite of the complaints on the forums. After all, not many people will shout out about a part that worked as expected!
But if you do replace it, I'd keep the old one handy in the glovebox for a few months at least!
And I know you already ordered the new cylinder, but did you ask if they had the option of the door locks in the same kit by any chance? We have them for the Broncos, so I would hope someone has them for the full-size trucks. Maybe LMC or Drake?
Good luck.
2X Bill.
Have your locksmith Buddy do it. 1st off you have to be careful once the cap over the tumblers is loose. The tumblers are spring loaded. Once the cap is off 1st thing he will see is the springs. Then the tumblers which are 2 piece. First (top) half is the spring seat. Then the actual tumbler. But BOTH the spring seat AND the tumbler are longer and shorter to make up that particular tumbler code. They can not be mixed up. Your locksmith friend should be able to read the 5 codes (cuts) of your key and the new cylinder's key. He will use the new tumblers where he can. Just prolly in a different hole. Which is a good idea to do obviously. He can use some old tumblers but they are worn. The legal minimum is three out of the five holes with working tumblers. No less.
I changed the tumblers myself. It was a little bit tricky, only because they're small. But I got the old key fit and working in the new switch. And the new key fit and working in the old switch.
Strangely enough, both switches now work in this new configuration. The old one works well with the new key and tumblers.
Make sure you don't have 30 keys on the ring, hanging on that new switch. It will tend to wear it out prematurely. Like the new Chevy's with the issues a few years ago. People have too much junk on their key rings and wearing out the locks.
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