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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Dent in roof

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Old Jan 21, 2019 | 12:50 PM
  #1  
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Dent in roof

A tree limb fell I just bought this truck and need to pop this out to get a new windshield what do I do?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2019 | 12:54 PM
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Post a picture with details about the truck and damage.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2019 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by PackerBacker_TX
Post a picture with details about the truck and damage.

 
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Old Jan 21, 2019 | 01:03 PM
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It's a 1981 f100 stepside but the roof is double walled so I can't just pop it out looking for some advice to get it back right
 
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Old Jan 21, 2019 | 01:07 PM
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At a glance I'm thinking you'll have to drill it, pull it out, bondo up, smooth it out and paint. Not to mention replacing the chrome trim around the windshield. Hope someone can provide a better solution. Good Luck!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2019 | 07:34 PM
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Drilling holes to pull the dent is old school. They now have guns that weld metal studs to the dent and a puller that grabs the pins to pull the dent.

Now it is hard to tell with the molding & glass in place but I am going to say that lip is pushed down so the glass would not fit.
Now the question is how to get that lip backup in place? The stud gun / puller I don't think will be enough to do it.
The studs will work on the outer panel.

Pull the molding off and take a straight edge to see how far that lip is pushed down, take another picture to show how bad it is.
I would then take that picture to a few body shops to see what they have to say. I am guessing this will be out of pocket so tell the shops the same to hope they will go easy.
If you went thru the insurance the truck would be a total

If the dash was not in the truck you might be able to use a port-a-power to push that lip up some and wile there was upward pressure and the stud gun puller pull that top panel back into shape.
You have to work them both at the same time other wise 1 will hold the other from going back into place. Remember when it happened they both went at the same time so needs to come out that way.
Good luck
Dave ----
 
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Old Jan 21, 2019 | 08:57 PM
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I was thinking a 2x4 & a bottle jack.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2019 | 09:16 PM
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I would go to the junkyard and cut the top of a cab off a junk truck and weld it onto yours. I bet that is what a body shop would do to fix it. Hardest part would be to pick the best place to cut it off and weld it back together.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2019 | 09:23 PM
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Another vote for the stud gun here.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
I was thinking a 2x4 & a bottle jack.
Thing is where to place them?
We know the roof part will be petty strong so what ever you pus off of has to be just as strong or stronger.
I don't know if the cowl would be strong enough?
He would need to remove the cowl and wiper linkage, place something down in there to spread the load, short 2x4s and plywood naybe?
Again he would need to jack it up some and pull the outer panel dent at the same time as the 1 panel will hold the other from moving as it should.
That may work if he had the tools (stud welder & puller).
I still think having a shop look at it is best. He could also work a deal that he pull the glass and anything else they need done to get it pulled back into place.
Then up to him who would do the finish work and install the glass.
The shop may want the glass to may sure it is pulled out enough sp maybe have them install it to?
Dave - - - -
 
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 11:18 AM
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I was able to get most of the dent out but I was wondering if I had enough to put a new windshield i


 
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 03:25 PM
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Looks like you did a good job. The windshield glues in place so as long as you get it in the ballpark it should work. They can add a little extra goop on the top.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by timbosstepside
That does look pretty good. From the picture it looks like that upper did not really come down as much as I thought.
If you had that stud welder & puller you could put a few across the body line and wile pulling up take a body hammer and hit that edge where the glass is. The glass would need to come out to do it right.
If you have a body shop close show him this picture that you would like that body line pulled out and that edge where the glass is hammered up and what it would run.
I say close because you can pull the rest of the glass out and wearing goggles drive it to them to do the work.

To pull the glass out there is a tool to do this. This is what I use to remove all my glass. In your case you don't have to worry about cracking the glass LOL You will find little rubber blocks at the bottom to hold the glass from slipping down don't throw away them blocks just incase you need them.
http://www.zoro.com/performance-tool...4aAmhREALw_wcB


Originally Posted by Franklin2
Looks like you did a good job. The windshield glues in place so as long as you get it in the ballpark it should work. They can add a little extra goop on the top.
You glass is not glued in like they do on new cars.
The kids they have installing glass now days all they know is to glue and tell you some crap that the glass is part of the strength of the car / truck. That it true of todays car & trucks but not when our trucks were built.
Our trucks use Butyl Tape and setting blocks. Most auto supply stores can get the kit.
It come in 2 sizes that I know of 5/16" thick and 3/8" thick I just don't know what one our trucks use as I have not looked that deep into it yet for my truck.
I do know it will take 2 strong people to install the glass if you are going to do it as it is heavy.
Dave ----

ps our trucks that have rear fenders are flare sides the step side is for that other company.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
That does look pretty good. From the picture it looks like that upper did not really come down as much as I thought.
If you had that stud welder & puller you could put a few across the body line and wile pulling up take a body hammer and hit that edge where the glass is. The glass would need to come out to do it right.
If you have a body shop close show him this picture that you would like that body line pulled out and that edge where the glass is hammered up and what it would run.
I say close because you can pull the rest of the glass out and wearing goggles drive it to them to do the work.

To pull the glass out there is a tool to do this. This is what I use to remove all my glass. In your case you don't have to worry about cracking the glass LOL You will find little rubber blocks at the bottom to hold the glass from slipping down don't throw away them blocks just incase you need them.
http://www.zoro.com/performance-tool...4aAmhREALw_wcB



You glass is not glued in like they do on new cars.
The kids they have installing glass now days all they know is to glue and tell you some crap that the glass is part of the strength of the car / truck. That it true of todays car & trucks but not when our trucks were built.
Our trucks use Butyl Tape and setting blocks. Most auto supply stores can get the kit.
It come in 2 sizes that I know of 5/16" thick and 3/8" thick I just don't know what one our trucks use as I have not looked that deep into it yet for my truck.
I do know it will take 2 strong people to install the glass if you are going to do it as it is heavy.
Dave ----

ps our trucks that have rear fenders are flare sides the step side is for that other company.
If he calls the glass people to come out and put a new glass in place, they will probably glue it correct?
 
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Old Jan 23, 2019 | 07:28 AM
  #15  
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So, if it was double walled roof, how did you get most of that out? I have cut out old windshields before (several) and it may or may not stay intact as busted as that one is. You may have to cover front of truck with tarps and blankets and get inside and kick it outwards while you have safety glasses on. But, you should be able to take razor blade and cut all way around but old gaskets are hard. I used to have a hawkbilled carpet knife that worked very well but it got away somehow. I mostly just use a regular $4 box cutter type cheapo deal.
I have a HF stud pin welder and they do work VERY, VERY well.
 
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