When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
YIKES! ......Lol......big guy settle down....... im not a troll, and last time i looked my 17 250 was still in the driveway. Pretty active on this site sooooo...yeah.... If your cheerios have been pooed in..... just poor them down the drain and move on. Also - not sure what your angle was, but an individuals current economic situation has, in no way shape or form, a damn thing to do with the truth. Thanks for trying to kick me between the legs though.... what i posted is the truth...just uhhh go ahead there and google it. I was just trying to let you know the reality of coated aluminum and corrosion. Its not a miracle alloy impervious to corrosion. I have 20 years experience in refinishing, and i have seen it all. In my spare time i build custom aluminum hunting and fishing boats, and i take what i do very seriously. I am sorry to ruffle your feathers, i can assure you that was not my intentions..... Now: there are trace heavy metals in salt. Some salts are worse than others. Aluminum when cross contaminated with dissimilar metals causes what is called galvanic corrosion. Bare aluminum forms a protective oxide coating. Paint DOES NOT stick to aluminum oxide. In order to paint an aluminum substrate, that oxide coating has to be removed chemically or physically. An acid etching primer is used before sealing and painting. What happens is a break is made in the painted surface. Ie: a rock chip on your rocker panel. Now the salt has a way in. Trace amounts of iron in the salts now react with the aluminum substrate. The aluminum tries to skin over with an oxide coating to protect itself, but its too late. The salts work their way up under the paint where there is no protective oxide coating. The iron in the salt causes the aluminum to react by turning it into a white powdery substance referred to as “white rust”. The corrosion then spreads under the paint and destroys the aluminum alloy. My intentions were not to upset you, but share knowledge based on experience and fact. If you guys on the east coast want something that is impervious to substrate corrosion, go and buy a carbon monocoque BMW i8. And now if you will please excuse me i am going to head on over to the BMW forum and tell them how their carbon fiber monocoque chassis is far inferior to our high tensile strengh framed f250.... but first im going to go dig through my couch and see if i can scrape up enough change to go and buy me a dollar cheese burger at mickey d’s....... good day to you sirs! (Insert mike drop here)
This reminds me of the guy who bought stainless nuts and bolts thinking they would never rust but they did and he was upset manly because he used them in attaching something to aluminum and it caused the aluminum to also corrode. By not knowing the difference between 308 stainless and 316 stainless, plus not knowing anything about electrolysis he just set his self up for a bigger problem later. Knowledge gained through years of hands on experience is golden, especially when it is passed on to another to adds even more years of experience. But when portions of that knowledge is given out for free to someone you have never met and then that person throws it back into your face, there is no common definition for that. These are the ones you never forget because at some point your years of hands on experience may help but you keep quiet.
This reminds me of the guy who bought stainless nuts and bolts thinking they would never rust but they did and he was upset manly because he used them in attaching something to aluminum and it caused the aluminum to also corrode. By not knowing the difference between 308 stainless and 316 stainless, plus not knowing anything about electrolysis he just set his self up for a bigger problem later. Knowledge gained through years of hands on experience is golden, especially when it is passed on to another to adds even more years of experience. But when portions of that knowledge is given out for free to someone you have never met and then that person throws it back into your face, there is no common definition for that. These are the ones you never forget because at some point your years of hands on experience may help but you keep quiet.
I made a similar mistake for a couple weeks before realizing the issue. Not long enough for any issues to arise but I did replace the nuts, bolts, and washers with aluminum.
i started using thiis product years ago. It is expensive, but its the next sliced bread. I apply it to any fastener that is going to come into contact with a dissimilar metal. It will also keep nuts and bolts from corroding. 5 years later a fastener exposed to saltwater spray will still come apart like they were mated and torqued yesterday. I’d suggest every man keep a tube in their tool box. I also use nylon washers anywhere torque specs are not crucial. Just makes me sleep better at night.
If you want to see fast and hard corrosion action try mating up a piece of brass and aluminium. Did that on a boat one time in my younger foolish days and the brass really tore up the aluminum. And that was above deck. Dissimilar metals syndrome. Yikes.
They have been used since 2009 on the F150, there is occasional failure but with 10 years of use nothing drastic.
.
Since ‘04 on the F150’s I believe. My ‘05 has a plastic fuel door and it has never broken.
Originally Posted by Retiredout
I had a 2004 F 150 that I bought new and put 200,000 miles on and never had that problem with the hood or any other body panel. I had that truck for 10 years.
The ‘05 mentioned above has an Al hood and I have had issues with the paint peeling off in sheets and with corrosion. I don’t live in a humid area or a state that salts the roads either.
i started using thiis product years ago. It is expensive, but its the next sliced bread. I apply it to any fastener that is going to come into contact with a dissimilar metal. It will also keep nuts and bolts from corroding. 5 years later a fastener exposed to saltwater spray will still come apart like they were mated and torqued yesterday. I’d suggest every man keep a tube in their tool box. I also use nylon washers anywhere torque specs are not crucial. Just makes me sleep better at night.
And look the product has a NSN. So it meets all the mil specs and is a proven product. Years of experience and expertise plus military grade product.
And look the product has a NSN. So it meets all the mil specs and is a proven product. Years of experience and expertise plus military grade product.
Well no it does not mean what you are stating. A National Stock Number (NSN) is a 13-digit number consisting of the four-digit Federal Supply Class (FSC) and the nine-digit NIIN for the product. It does not in any form or fashion MEAN it meets any Mil-Std or is a "military grade product". It only means it is cataloged and put into the system IF approved by the DLA. Commercial items as in this case are bought as such have National Stock Numbers just as a FYI.
The part that contains the NSN may be a qualified part for a F16 or F22 just as an example or it may be a tool or a lubricant just as an example.
Do not want to confuse people here with incorrect, misleading information so thought this needed clarification.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.