Car audio guys
#211
03-22-2019, 08:09 PM
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. i'm actually a nice guy, every winter i'm towing idiots who try to come down my road with 2WD out of here, whereas a wrecker charges $450 to come out.i have a graduate degree in engineering (minored in electrical) and worked for a computer chip company for 20 years and am blown away as to how many of these DSPs I can't get to work or work properly. I'm beginning to think it's not meant to be.
#212
03-23-2019, 09:47 AM
Ok, now it's almost comical and i am beginning to believe i live in some vortex. constantly have problems with electronics out here. people even claim they can hear a low frequency hum coming from the earth.
after firmware update, it was great. bass was strongest, clearest, and tightest i've ever obtained. had a huge smile on my face, weather moved in so i decided i'd mess with settings and such later. an hour later, same crap started up with canceling.
Checked all wiring, nothing.
Basically, if you mix in the 3rd input (LR speaker out from HU) with any other input it cancels all or some of the signal. it doesn't do this if you mix any other inputs together (everything but #3) . if i mix LR (from HU, input 3 into DSP) and RR (from HU, input 4) on same channel (and send to either rear) - it removes all vocals, bass, and some other frequencies, it only plays small range of music. If I mix 3rd input and any other input for my LF speaker it completely shuts down sound (same if I mix 3rd input into sub with any other input), if i add more than one input to the mix (along with input 3) i get signal but it is lower and increases in gain as I eliminate input 3 from the mix.
called Dayton - tried reloading firmware and getting a 3rd unit now.
this is just so perplexing. if i had any hair left on my head i'd be pulling it out
after firmware update, it was great. bass was strongest, clearest, and tightest i've ever obtained. had a huge smile on my face, weather moved in so i decided i'd mess with settings and such later. an hour later, same crap started up with canceling.
Checked all wiring, nothing.
Basically, if you mix in the 3rd input (LR speaker out from HU) with any other input it cancels all or some of the signal. it doesn't do this if you mix any other inputs together (everything but #3) . if i mix LR (from HU, input 3 into DSP) and RR (from HU, input 4) on same channel (and send to either rear) - it removes all vocals, bass, and some other frequencies, it only plays small range of music. If I mix 3rd input and any other input for my LF speaker it completely shuts down sound (same if I mix 3rd input into sub with any other input), if i add more than one input to the mix (along with input 3) i get signal but it is lower and increases in gain as I eliminate input 3 from the mix.
called Dayton - tried reloading firmware and getting a 3rd unit now.
this is just so perplexing. if i had any hair left on my head i'd be pulling it out
#213
03-23-2019, 10:04 AM
#214
03-23-2019, 10:34 AM
#215
03-23-2019, 10:39 AM
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After the firmware update it actually worked as it should. it was the best bass i've ever heard from the system. I had a smile on my face bc it sounded so good and was happy that i finally got it. That didn't last long.
i ran HU to AMP off and on for about 2 months and never had a single problems.
#216
03-23-2019, 10:43 AM
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yes on 180. if i assign #3 input to sub channel 6 and #1, 2, or 4 (only one input) to sub channel 7, I get nothing from the sub unless i put one of the channels out of phase.
#217
03-23-2019, 10:52 AM
Has anyone tried one of these Kicker (plug and play) subwoofer systems that fits behind the rear seat of your Super Duty. I'm wondering if this improves the overall sound, if you leave the rest as stock. I realize replacing all the speakers would vastly improve the quality, but I'm not ready to tear apart my brand new F350 Super Duty. Not impressed whatsoever with the BO System, especially the lack of bass.
#218
03-23-2019, 11:29 AM
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i bought one for my F-150 and still have it. it does fill in a bit but don't expect any thump or what not. I tried to install it on '17 F250 but there was no plug behind the left rear seat/near corner of cab on my truck (STX/XL but with 7 speaker sync 3, same as F150). i got it on eBay i think for $500. if you are interested in one i think i can find all the screws and pieces.
you'd probably get a better self powered sub for about the same or less money installed by an audio shop.
you'd probably get a better self powered sub for about the same or less money installed by an audio shop.
#219
03-23-2019, 11:32 AM
i bought one for my F-150 and still have it. it does fill in a bit but don't expect any thump or what not. I tried to install it on '17 F250 but there was no plug behind the left rear seat/near corner of cab on my truck (STX/XL but with 7 speaker sync 3, same as F150). i got it on eBay i think for $500. if you are interested in one i think i can find all the screws and pieces.
#220
03-23-2019, 03:34 PM
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if the wiring isn't in the back of the cab you will have to get a pinout of the system and run the dedicated lines to the sub in the back. you will also have to use forscan to turn it on. with the plug in the back on my F-150 it took me less than an hour to do the install and forscan programming and i was going very slow.
#221
03-23-2019, 03:37 PM
I will tell you with almost 100% certainty if you go with the ford/kicker sub at that price you are not going to be happy, compared to what you can get aftermarket. i would check out earlier posts in this thread on the JL Audio powered subs.
if the wiring isn't in the back of the cab you will have to get a pinout of the system and run the dedicated lines to the sub in the back. you will also have to use forscan to turn it on. with the plug in the back on my F-150 it took me less than an hour to do the install and forscan programming and i was going very slow.
if the wiring isn't in the back of the cab you will have to get a pinout of the system and run the dedicated lines to the sub in the back. you will also have to use forscan to turn it on. with the plug in the back on my F-150 it took me less than an hour to do the install and forscan programming and i was going very slow.
#222
03-25-2019, 07:28 PM
using Forscan you can shut off the factory processing/EQ (and even to switch to LL). to do so go to the ACM (As Built) Module. Line 727-01-02 ->you should have this value 0600 0000 xxxx (it may not be a 6 but any number 1-9). Change the 6 (or whatever number it is) to 0. this will shut down all processing.
be sure to allow your HU to completely power off and back on again after changes.
be sure to allow your HU to completely power off and back on again after changes.
#223
03-25-2019, 08:27 PM
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I can't answer for sure but I would assume yes.. That digit is held for sound processing. If your's was a 6 like all other normal sync 3 - 7 speaker system (or any other number but 0) then i would assume it is doing the processing and like all other systems 0 shuts it down.
here's a link to the F-150 Forscan Spread Sheet. ACM stuff is (as far as i can tell) universal. As are most of their other settings.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...#gid=338817466
here's a link to the F-150 Forscan Spread Sheet. ACM stuff is (as far as i can tell) universal. As are most of their other settings.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...#gid=338817466
#224
03-25-2019, 08:36 PM
I can't answer for sure but I would assume yes.. That digit is held for sound processing. If your's was a 6 like all other normal sync 3 - 7 speaker system (or any other number but 0) then i would assume it is doing the processing and like all other systems 0 shuts it down.
here's a link to the F-150 Forscan Spread Sheet. ACM stuff is (as far as i can tell) universal. As are most of their other settings.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...#gid=338817466
here's a link to the F-150 Forscan Spread Sheet. ACM stuff is (as far as i can tell) universal. As are most of their other settings.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...#gid=338817466
#225
03-25-2019, 08:48 PM
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if you have decent sub-bass/mids on up to highs (at higher volumes) and only the bass is falling off, and if it were me, i'd just add a good self powered sub with a remote (JLs were discussed in earlier posts) and call it a day.
if not by the time your done with amp, speakers, DSP and everything else you are looking at probably $1500 or more. at this point (assuming you have just regular reverse camera) i'd consider replacing the head unit with a Maestro compatible system that ties into your OBD. I did this on a 2012 with a kenwood system that had digital processing built in, 45W 4CH in dash amp, and self powered sub. the best audio systems i ever had. Incredible sound and I was able to read key vehicle data - torque, temps, ratios, NOx, etc. on the HU. Unless they have updated their firmware, you can't use it with multi camera system (they said they wouldn't gaurentee it would work when i called about 6 months ago).
if not by the time your done with amp, speakers, DSP and everything else you are looking at probably $1500 or more. at this point (assuming you have just regular reverse camera) i'd consider replacing the head unit with a Maestro compatible system that ties into your OBD. I did this on a 2012 with a kenwood system that had digital processing built in, 45W 4CH in dash amp, and self powered sub. the best audio systems i ever had. Incredible sound and I was able to read key vehicle data - torque, temps, ratios, NOx, etc. on the HU. Unless they have updated their firmware, you can't use it with multi camera system (they said they wouldn't gaurentee it would work when i called about 6 months ago).