I'm looking at a truck that is for sale on Craigslist locally and looking for some feedback. My intention is to have a solid truck to start with for a complete restoration.

https://kpr.craigslist.org/cto/d/ric...758926093.html

I went and drove it yesterday. Started right up on the first try and everything seemed to work great. Couple of notes:

• It had a rattling noise each time I let the clutch out. Manually lifting the clutch the rest of the way with my foot made that go away.
• While the alignment seems ok, the steering wheel was a full 45 degrees off to the left.
• There is no weather seal on the driver side, causing some door rattle. Owner says he has it but hasn't put it on yet.
• Title says 79 F250 but the sticker on the cab indicates a 1978 F150 2WD, so I'm assuming a cab swap was done at some point. Owner was going to get a photo of the frame stamp for me.
• I don't care for the wheels or the headliner

Thoughts? Advice?

 

All of those things you mention are problems that are easily solved or addressed. I would be most concerned that there is some discrepancy in the VIN, especially since the owner states that the title is clear. I don't know how it works in Washington, but when you go to register it, what if they want to verify the VIN...does that mean you will have to pull the cab off the frame to title the truck?? A photo may not be enough evidence for the DMV.

 

2X on the importance of being able to establish ownership. You won't have to pull the cab in order to see a VIN stamp. On a V8, look on the frame just below the alternator and be prepared to do a little wire brushing to reveal it.

 

I've been restoring cars and pickups for so long I can tell within 30 seconds if it's something I should be interested in. if this was a hemi cuda I'd save it, it's not. and it's not worth restoring. in this case, I'd run away screaming like my teeth are on fire.

These are not rare or expensive vehicles. . find something more original and has a few sharp edges left , this rig is a parts collection poorly put together.

now we can get to things that are more opinion than fact. in my opinion, if you plan on doing a proper restoration start with a good solid original example in a higher trim package. at least a Ranger, better yet an XLT or Lariat. highly optioned is a plus too. it really does have an effect on how happy you'll be and what the value is when you're done. If a custom trim level is fine with you that's great they're easier to find, but you still need a good starting point it will save you time, money and the end result will be superior.
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Take your time and find what you want, don't settle. it took me a year to find my rust free 3 owner '76 high boy XLT and I'd still be looking if I hadn't found it. we're lucky living in the inland NW , good solid 4x4's are plentiful so you'll find what you want at the right price..

 

Lost of good advice posted here. Typically I prefer to buy a rig that doesn't have any known issues. You will encounter enough once you tear into the truck. I have to agree with most everything 440 sixpack says. Don't get in a hurry, don't settle for something less than what you really want stay far away if there is a question on the title. The right truck will turn up. I had been looking for a solid cab to for a replacement on my '78 Supercab. Looked for over two years and drove countless miles. Finally found one for far less than I planned on spending and it was less than 15 miles from home.
Good Luck with your search and be patient.

 

Yep I would check ALL the VIN places and numbers that they match the paper if not walk.
Where was the VIN placed on the cab? If the cab was swapped and does not match the frame dose he have paper work for the cab and do you want to get in the middle of that mess?

What shape were the body mounts in? How much filler was used in the bottom of the fenders, cab corners, roof drip rails and bed? This is where they rust and if a magnet does not stick firm drop the $$ to by it as that will all have to come apart to be fixed right. Me if it was the drip rails I would walk as I can and have fixed the rest.

Things you don't like can always be changed so that is not a big deal in my book but if the seller dose not have the stock parts to put back on then that may bring down the $$ if I was looking to change them back to stock. It has a 4" lift so you would need all new stock springs for a restore. Because of the lift did he use a drop pitman arm? I am thinking not as the steering wheel is off center.

He posted the inside was all done? No rubber pads on pedals and you side the weather strip was missing so what else is hidden?
Dash has AC but nothing under hood, where is the compressor and even bigger yet the evaporator box?
As I think some one said this is looking like a parts truck put together.

You said you want to restore it who is doing ALL the work start to finish? Even if it is you, you will never get your money back out for what you put into it.
If the VIN and body checks out and you can maybe get it for about half that price maybe as a project to work on but I would think hard about that.
Dave ----

 

Ok you asked.

1. X100 on making sure the title matches the frame Vi#'s. Title #, versus door (warranty) plate, versus cab B pillar (safety certification) sticker, versus frame vi #. It is in 2 places on a 4wd. One hard to see, because it is aft of the passenger side exhaust manifold, on top of the frame rail. Other one is pretty much impossible to see, under cab on passenger side top of frame rail. About inline with seat track fwd bolt.
2. Have handy (smart phone/web site) and know your state registration regs, call before and ask. Do NOT trust the guy selling it, he is just trying to sell it.
3 IMO that is way to much $ for THAT truck. Its pretty ruff, bling rims or not.
4. Clutch chatter/rattling noise, I bet throw out bearing about gone. Have to pull up rest of way on clutch pedal...worn pressure plate fingers or WAY out of adjustment. Ever changed a clutch 3 pack? Clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing...you might be getting some experience if you buy it.
5. That kind of money it would have a matching painted passenger fender w/chrome. Not a obvious replacement. Passenger side cab drip rail bent. Aftermarket door panels and the cheapest out there. Yea it has a cool speaker headliner that cost 300 from LMC did they hook up the factory radio to those speakers? All the pedals do not have the cover pads. Gas pedal does not have a cover to come off, lol. Cheap and easy thing to do along with the door seal. I mean come on you are asking $6800 friggin dollars.
6. Steering column missing the lower half cover and the bottom cover that attaches to the dash. But it might be a tilt. Dash pad is a little wavy for $6800 and looks to be painted over red.
7. Custom badge on dvrs side of bed (below trim), but not on pass side?? 79 bed did not have that badge back there. Rear lift is just some added rectangle tubing on top of the OEM blocks. Passenger side fender edge looks chipped up or is that bondo or thin paint? Passenger side bed fender lip is a little wavy, like is has rust repairs. Cracked steering wheel, where is the rest of the antenna?
8. 4" lift you really need to have longer front brake lines, they look like OEM. Same for the single drop down in the rear. Steering wheel needs re-clocked due to lift, its not really that hard to do. Does it have a drop pitman arm and adjustable steering link? What is that odd looking bracket mounted between the front springs? Dvrs side cab missing short chrome piece. Master cylinder has had some brake line replacement for sure. No dome light cover. Steering wheel horn pad missing plastic trim piece. Interior if far from "refinished"..IMO. Ok so the seat is nice and it has new carpet.

Tell him to take a 1500 off and keep the rims/tires. And then point out all the little things that add up to $ YOU will have to spend to fix. And then offer 4K.

 

Of course you are not going to have that part of the rusted floor pan open. Ok so it is aft of the pass side exhaust manifold.

 

Thanks everyone, fanastic and thorough insight! I think I’ll pass and keep looking.

 

The A/C panel to the left of the glove box was used with dealer installed Economy A/C that is not combined with the heater.

Only trucks with factory installed integral A/C have the huge evaporator case under the hood.

Factory installed integral A/C is combined with the heater, the A/C controls are in the same panel as the heater controls.

 

Do not let my nit goofy **** picky-ness run you off a possible deal. I was just giving it an internet once over and giving you some stuff/ammo to bring to the bargaining table. In hopes of getting YOU a better bargain. I just feel that for six thousand and eight hundred hard earned bucks you can find a better truck. Maybe even find a nicer one for less than $6800. And or if you are looking for a truck for a "complete restoration".. see if you can find a 4wd that is stock and then do the mods as you rebuild the rest.

RUST is what you want to avoid, ever think of shopping in warm dry Cali or Az ? Here is a 100 over the world vehicle shopping hit list check list .
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...1&postcount=16

 

I agree on the rust. but he's in the Pasco area and like where I am in eastern OR rust is something we can easily avoid. ou just have to check for it.

Do you care if you get a 250 or a 150 ? seems like there are a lot of nice F-150's for sale in the NW right now.

 

It's raining here today, and trucks sold new in CA are not all without rust. The drip rails may rust out on "beach" trucks.

The salty marine layer rolls in from the ocean overnight, covers the entire exterior. If not rinsed off regularly, surface rust is one result, rust forming in the drip rails is another.

 

I am a F250 4x4 kinda guy...I own 3. But I have owned a 2wd F100 6cly 3 on the tree. All depends on what you are going to do with the truck.
DD just around in town, haul a horse/cattle trailer (full), haul a goose neck or bale trailer trailer, full of round bales. Go to Lowe's and get 100 sheets of plywood and a pallet full of quikrete. Go off roading/4 wheeling and camping that includes hauling a trailer. Haul your Razor or dirt bikes to the track. Haul a cord of wood at one time.

 

My thoughts; It's not worth $6800.