94 aerostar help
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New User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: east tx
94 aerostar help
Help that is my husband and my mechanic . My 94 aerostar has decided it is ready to drive me crazy and nowherer else. It cranks fine in the morning but when you drive it a few miles it will just die. It will not crank even after you think it is cold say 4-6 hrs . Go out the next morning it cranks fine. We have replaved the fuel pump and filters. .Though that that might be the problem. It ran for a few days and the same thing happen. We replaced the TFI module. No luck the coil was replaced yesterday .Cranked it let it run in driveway for about 30 min. It did not die .Cranked right up after we killed it . Well it is now sitting in a parking lot about 3 miles from home waiting for morning so it will crank and come home. When the mechanic put it on the machine it did not show any problems but of course the M. had put it on a truck to bring it into the shop. And he put it on a machine the next a.m. The van has a V6 3.0L engin.Help I am almost ready to 
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: North of Pittsburgh
I think you may have two problems. The starting problem and the running problem. For cranking the starter and starter harness may be the problem. I had a new starter installed at a Ford dealer. A month later while on vacation several hundred miles away it would just not crank at all. Turned out the mechanic had not put the sealing material on plug. After a tow to another Ford dealer problem was solved. The plug was shorting out.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,818
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LB,
During the non-cranking episodes, try putting the gear selector into "N" (neutral) and see if it will start that way. If so, the Neutral Safety switch is bad and needs replaced.
If the van is dying on the road after starting properly then I agree with xrayjock, there may be secondary issues to address.
During the non-cranking episodes, try putting the gear selector into "N" (neutral) and see if it will start that way. If so, the Neutral Safety switch is bad and needs replaced.
If the van is dying on the road after starting properly then I agree with xrayjock, there may be secondary issues to address.
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New User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: east tx
When it would not crank this morning . I put it in N. and all it would do is click. But in park it would turn over very stong sounding. So the shop sent a wrecker for it . Hope this time they can find the problem. Thank for your input.
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New User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: east tx
judt a note to say thanks to everyone that replied to my cry for help. My baby is finally back on the road. Since it finally to the point that it would not crank my mec. was able to track down the sorce of the problem. It was a interal wire on the coil. The wire was only making contact on and off. It was a wire that sent fire to the fuel pump . So when it would crank it was making contact after you would drive it and it warms up it would loose contact and the fuel pump would quit. I guess after the plastic coating on the wire cooled off it would again loose contact.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
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Glad you're back on the road again. Electrical problems are the nastiest of problems, you must have a good mechanic. The update is nice for future reference for others with similar problems.
BTW - Enjoyed your movie - cute dog!
BTW - Enjoyed your movie - cute dog!
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: NC
I'm having a similar problem. '89 3.0 starts fine, runs good for about 15- 20 minutes, then dies. After turning the ignition switch back & forth several times it will start back up and run for a few more minutes then dies. I've replaced fuel pump,filter, coil, ignition module, and all sensors, plugs & wires. I've checked for loose wires & vacuum leaks, yet this problem persists. Fuel pressure regulator seems fine but I'll replace it just to eliminate the possibility. Anybody know how to do this without pulling fuel rail? You mentioned a wire from coil to fuel pump, I'll check that again. Can anybody help me? 
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,015
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From: SoCal
You mentioned moving the ignition switch back and forth. I wonder if it's not the switch?
The fuel pressure regulator is held onto the rail by 3 allen head cap screws that go into the body of the regulator from below its mount on the rail. You will need a very stubby Allen key, or a hex screwdriver bit and an open end wrench to turn it. You also need to contort your fingers in strange ways. I would check the line pressure first before trying to replace the regulator.
eugene
The fuel pressure regulator is held onto the rail by 3 allen head cap screws that go into the body of the regulator from below its mount on the rail. You will need a very stubby Allen key, or a hex screwdriver bit and an open end wrench to turn it. You also need to contort your fingers in strange ways. I would check the line pressure first before trying to replace the regulator.
eugene
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 56
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From: NC
Thanks for your reply. You confirmed my fears about the fuel pressure regulator. Contortion is apparently the norm when working on this van. I poked a screwdriver into the schrader valve on the fuel line and got a strong spurt of fuel, guess I'll get a fuel pressure guage to check for sure. I don't think it's the ignition switch but I do suspect it's an electrical problem since I get a code 14 (intermittent loss of PIP signal). Maybe next step is distributor check.