Wait... if I"m reading this right, if the VIN matches up then a Ford stealership has to give me a new ignition switch free of charge? Even 31 years later?

 

i doubt it, most recalls only have a certain life.
you can check, but i am pretty sure that recall is expired.

 

Copied directly from the TSB:

Note that this is a safety recall, and any included vehicle will be repaired free, no matter how old it is, how long the owner waits to present it for repair, or how many times it has been sold.

But you may still be right Tom. Either way, now I know what the issue is with it, I can get it fixed or live with it. Thanks for the help guys.

 

Or you may find the switch may have already been replaced.....

 

a new switch is under $15.
probably cost more to go through the BS at the dealership to get it replaced under recall.

 

I know. But it's kind of funny to think about. It runs ok for now and will pass inspection since the inspector shuts the vehicle off before performing the electrical system tests. I just told everyone in the family to remember and jiggle the ign key and confirm that the signals work before taking off. Hey, if it burns the truck down then I won't have to worry about fixing the other things wrong with it, right?

When I get home for the summer I'll start digging in to the possible fueling issue or whatever.

 

Ok need to pick brains one more time. The truck's red "BRAKE" light is staying on. Not yellow ABS, the hard-fault BRAKE light. I've already confirmed it isn't the parking brake switch. The light is slightly dimmed, pushing the parking brake lights it up more. Have not yet unplugged the sensor on the master cylinder, but have confirmed the float inside is not stuck and the fluid is both fresh and full. Two new calipers on the front (unrelated - again not throwing parts). Dad, Grandpa, and my old mechanic boss have all driven the vehicle and said the brakes are in good shape and the pedal feels good. Have not checked the proportioning valve - read somewhere that sometimes it can get stuck to one side and light up the warning. Anyone know where this little dude is at and how to check it out?

Maybe worth noting??? The light was out all thru the winter months. As soon as we hit that warm(ish) spell, the light came right back on!

The Bronco just got new ball joints and tie rod ends and goes for an alignment today. This brake light is the ONLY thing standing in the way of it and a clean bill of health for a VA safety inspection!!!

 

What are you waiting on ? Unplug it....

 

somebody at home to get off their butt and do it!! I'm 100 miles from home for the next 5 weeks.

frustrating, I know. For you all and for me.

 

lol.... We talked about this connector months ago, I think your dad tried to remove it, but no joy.
Have those 2 !@#$% spray it with something.....

 

I know I know you sound like my professors when I ask about assignments due weeks ago I'm sorry for being a lazy bum.

I think part of the issue was that it stopped lighting up so I stopped caring about it. Figured it had healed itself.

No excuses. From now on I'm on top of it!!

 

Then get out and look for 4 skid marks...….

 

OK guys. I'm back home now after a grueling week of college finals. Unfortunately now I'm a senior in college... I've found the best way to de-stress from a hectic college life is to start working on old Fords again. I'm back and I'll be continuing to work on the 1988 Bronco.

I'd like to keep this thread open in case I run into any trouble and need to ask a question rather than starting endless new threads. First item of business: doing the brake test and unplugging the sensor on the master cylinder as Vinny has suggested to eliminate the BRAKE light issue.

No problems with the truck failing to start - once it's inspected, tagged, and insured I will start troubleshooting those issues.

 

So did the brake test today. Did not lock up the brakes but it did stop fairly quickly when I stomped on the pedal.

Noticed another issue: the headlights and dash lights are flickering slightly or pulsing and the charge gauge is jumping around. Still charging, but the needle is dancing between two hash marks on the gauge. Anyone know what might cause this? It has a 2G alternator but the PO said it was new - it looks new too. The alternator does charge the battery - confirmed by the gauge and a multimeter on the battery.

 

So the truck runs decent, scoots down the road, is licensed, tagged, insured, and now topless (it's a bronco for those who just tuned in). Andy loves it, and so does my mom (which means it gets to stay around). However, there's two issues which need to be solved and I'd like you all's help.

1. The steering. It's got about 1/8th turn worth of play - enough to make it a bit squirrely on the road but not enough to yet be dangerous (to me). The shaft seems tight. There is a boot over the shaft where I assume it goes into the steering box - not sure what is under that or if it could cause the play. I was hoping it would be a joint in the steering shaft but sadly it seems to be down towards the box area. Any ideas on how to proceed - I know absolutely squat when it comes to steering and my brother is just itching to drive it. I just don't feel that it's safe for a learning driver.

2. Electrical system. There is still a very odd flickering when there is any sort of electrical draw on the system. The headlights, dash lights, and dome light have a faint but visible pulsing to them which corresponds with the jumping charge gauge. The jumping gauge seems to be less prevalent at higher RPMs but the flicker is still there. At first I would have figured ground problem but we cleaned all the grounds very well about 3 months ago. What should I check?