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This summer I starting feeling pulsing on the brake pedal when braking down long mountain passes. The rotors are AC/Delco replacements with 40 k miles. I replaced the right front brake caliper the same time as I replaced rotors, brake pads, wheel bearings, steering knuckle ball joints, and alignment.
I felt the van pull once to the left (driver side) when I suddenly put the brakes on.
I lifted the van and removed the left front wheel and was able to spin the rotor freely by hand. I removed the brake caliper and depressed the pistons with a c-clamp. It appears in good working condition. I repeated the procedure on the right (passenger) and experienced the same results.
Both rotors feel smooth and evenly worn. The brake pads are not glazed and measure approximately 5/16" on each side.
Can anyone think of anything else to check? Replacing the entire front brake system on this in my opinion is easy. From memory, calipers both sides $150, rotors $200, wheel bearings, $35, brake pads, $80. I can do everything myself for under $500. However, I prefer to isolate the problem. The only thing I have not check are the brake lines. Maybe there is swelling or something blocking free movement of brake fluid?
Brake hoses often colapse on the inside and restrict flow. I suspect your rf hose is bad. Might want to replace both.
No offense intended to Bashby but I’ve heard this old myth for 25 years from a few dozen sources but never once from a person that actually knew of it happening.
with that said; it’s probably wise maintenance to replace the rubber brake hoses due to age. New hoses and fluid are good; whether or not they fix your symptom.
Ive chased a brake pull on my 07 E350 for years and can’t figure it out. New hoses, calipers, rotors and pads. I’m left thinking maybe the radius arm bushings are causing it. I know one side is in bad shape.
Check that the slide pins are free and also check that both pistons in the caliper move equally when brake pressure is applied.. it's not good enough just to check that they aren't totally seized, if one piston requires more pressure to move the pad will engage the rotor unevenly and that side will be down on braking power compared to the other.
Check that the slide pins are free and also check that both pistons in the caliper move equally when brake pressure is applied.. it's not good enough just to check that they aren't totally seized, if one piston requires more pressure to move the pad will engage the rotor unevenly and that side will be down on braking power compared to the other.
The slide pins are free. The pistons don't move equally.
I put everything back together, took it for a test drive. I could not feel it pulling. I returned home and jacked up the van again and stuck a jack stand under the van for safety. The right wheel is the culprit. The wheel did not spin freely. The slide pins move freely. I removed the caliper and noticed that the pistons don't move equally.
Time to buy another rebuilt brake caliper.
Do I fill the caliper with brake fluid before installation?
The failed rebuilt right front caliper was purchased at Napa 40,000 miles ago. Does anyone here have a replacement caliper brand that you could recommend? Rock Auto sells Raybesto, Cardone, AC Delco, and Ford. Both Raybesto and AC Delco also can be purchased brand new from Rock Auto.
The failed rebuilt right front caliper was purchased at Napa 40,000 miles ago. Does anyone here have a replacement caliper brand that you could recommend? Rock Auto sells Raybesto, Cardone, AC Delco, and Ford. Both Raybesto and AC Delco also can be purchased brand new from Rock Auto.
I've used nothing but Motorcraft of all my caliper and hardware replacements---they've never failed me. For parts like these can be subject to failure "soon" after installation Ford's 2 year unlimited parts warranty is just one huge benefit especially if you buy them from a local dealership. Prices should be pretty much in line with Rock Auto, if not tell them politely you'd prefer buying locally, if they can get closer to RA's pricing they'll have your business. Another huge benefit to buying locally is if they need warranty replaced you're not saddle with all the BS surrounding obtaining warranty adjustment's through the mail. Those supposed few dollars saved initially evaporate immediately, the frustration escalating quickly.
FWIW I always replace calipers as a pair---unless just one of a recently installed pair develops replacement-worthy issues its wise replacing both at the same time, IMHO anyway.
BTW Coolfeet your PM Inbox is full again---I couldn't reply to your last PM to me!
No offense intended to Bashby but I’ve heard this old myth for 25 years from a few dozen sources but never once from a person that actually knew of it happening.
with that said; it’s probably wise maintenance to replace the rubber brake hoses due to age. New hoses and fluid are good; whether or not they fix your symptom.
Ive chased a brake pull on my 07 E350 for years and can’t figure it out. New hoses, calipers, rotors and pads. I’m left thinking maybe the radius arm bushings are causing it. I know one side is in bad shape.
Good luck with your problem.
it's happened to me. They can either collapse or a piece of the inner lining can come loose and act like a check valve. Depending on how it comes apart, it can keep pressure from not releasing from the caliper causing a stuck caliper or it can fail in the opposite direction and not allow all the pressure to get to the caliper.
it's happened to me. They can either collapse or a piece of the inner lining can come loose and act like a check valve. Depending on how it comes apart, it can keep pressure from not releasing from the caliper causing a stuck caliper or it can fail in the opposite direction and not allow all the pressure to get to the caliper.
thanks for the information. Brake lines to the calipers are inexpensive and good preventive maintenance.
I always replace the calipers in pairs. With changing them both at the same time, I just feel there is less of a chance of a pull or unequal side to side braking. If one side is bad the other side won't be far behind.
I also replace the hoses whenever I replace calipers. Hoses are pretty cheap and you will have the system open replacing the calipers. So it's the best time to replace the hoses.
I also always try to stick with Motorcraft parts. Even though it seems like more and more of them are saying "made in china" on the boxes! Was not happy when I paid quite a bit more for Motorcraft rear brake drums for my 96 E250 and they were made in china!
Make sure to inspect all the suspension bushings and ball joints, etc. Any of those can also cause pulling to one side while braking.
I found a new old stock Ford right front caliper on eBay for $50. AutoNation White Bear Lake (Tousley Ford) sells the same part that is remanufactured for about $110. Made in the USA! My buddy who is a power eBay seller found this for me. It's not from his store. He just knows how find good stuff for his E350 vans.
It would have been a whole lot better if you found the Left one too.
I am looking for the left front caliper too. It's working fine. I will wait unitl I find another new old stock product on eBay. I have 6 months to go before I use the van on a 4,000 mile camping trip.
I found a new old stock front brake hose for $30. I have an E150 van that's in top running condition that I use as my daily driver. Time is on my side for this repair.
My buddy who is a power eBay seller found this for me. It's not from his store. He just knows how find good stuff for his E350 vans.
Ask your buddy what search terms he used to find this one----you could use it to your advantage in the future.
I'm not too bad at finding great deals on Ford parts through FleaBay---its all about how we search, the parameters we enter makes all the difference. Or maybe I'm just a "power buyer"?
When I'm searching I'll visit RockAuto to get the OEM and Motorcraft numbers, note their prices for something parts then use those part numbers to do individual searche, ie: "Motorcraft DG-508" or "Ford 3W7Z12029AA" which are the same parts. Between RockAuto, Amazon and FleaBay finding the better parts is somewhat easy. Google searching using those same numbers can also show sellers we've never heard of with great prices too.
As an example I found the Motorcraft DG-508 COP's for just over $25.50 each which is half price of what I pay at the dealership. At that price better quality Motorcraft stuff rivals the cheap aftermarket stuff so many buy due cost alone.
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Was not happy when I paid quite a bit more for Motorcraft rear brake drums for my 96 E250 and they were made in china!
