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Hey everyone, new owner here. Never had a new truck before and don't really feel like screwing anything up yet lol. The door calls for different PSI in the front 2 than the back 2 tires, yet they're the same size tire. I'm guessing this may be something for towing/hauling bigger loads, but I only tow my camper maybe once a month. Would evening out the PSI's help fuel economy and will it hurt the TPMS? Thanks, and please no crude comments. Like I said, I've never owned a new truck or anything with all this electronic stuff.
If you run empty, and you have the weight of a diesel up front, you probably need the front psi that is on the door sticker. A big load, particularly with a slide in over-cab camper, can at times add weight on the front axle, but more often sags in the back and lifts weight off the front axle. If you run empty or light loads, you can run the rear tires 5-10 psi below the door sticker.
If you run empty, and you have the weight of a diesel up front, you probably need the front psi that is on the door sticker. A big load, particularly with a slide in over-cab camper, can at times add weight on the front axle, but more often sags in the back and lifts weight off the front axle. If you run empty or light loads, you can run the rear tires 5-10 psi below the door sticker.
johnD
Thanks. I didn't think to add that my SuperDuty is 6.2 gasser.
Have have a gasser too. I run 51 and 61 cold. It helps with the ride. When towing air em’ up. If below 50 in the front or around 58ish in the rear my light goes off
Have have a gasser too. I run 51 and 61 cold. It helps with the ride. When towing air em’ up. If below 50 in the front or around 58ish in the rear my light goes off
Thanks. Could you tell a difference in fuel mileage. I was prepared to get low mileage, but between 9 and 10 empty is less than expected lol
Well i have a 2 wd regular cab longbed. My mpg lie o’ meter is actually pretty accurate. Round’ town i average 14.4 hard figured. Mpg on dash always shows 14.8 On a road trip i took to colorado this summer i was 15.8 hard figured. Truck showed 15.9. My third tank of gas i was 11.2 hard figured. Almost had a stroke when i hit =‘s on my i phone! Lol I try VERY hard to keep it under 2200 rpm when driving normal stop light to stop light. Highway towing is absolutely brutal pulling 8k lb. RV....... 8-9MPG ALL DAY LONG. You throw hills or mountains into the mix and its time to suck start the ol’ glock! One tank in new mexico with mountains head wind and 8k lbs I literally had to pull over 45 minutes later and fill it back up. Didnt even figure mpg......It was stupid. That is with tires aired up. With tires aired down and no load with day to day driving i see very little change. .3ish mpg maybe. Yours should get a little better as things break in.
Hey everyone, new owner here. Never had a new truck before and don't really feel like screwing anything up yet lol. The door calls for different PSI in the front 2 than the back 2 tires, yet they're the same size tire. I'm guessing this may be something for towing/hauling bigger loads, but I only tow my camper maybe once a month. Would evening out the PSI's help fuel economy and will it hurt the TPMS? Thanks, and please no crude comments. Like I said, I've never owned a new truck or anything with all this electronic stuff.
Trucks call for a higher PSI in the rear tires because that's where all the weight goes when you tow and haul things....which is what these trucks are made for.
I run 55-60psi front and 45-50psi in the rear when empty. I increase the rear pressures when I plan to tow.
I run 50 psi in all four tires - TPMS adjusted with ForScan. Ride is significantly improved - a combination of lower tire pressures and Rancho shocks. I inflate to door sticker pressures when towing.
I have the 6.2 Platinum CCSB and run 55 front, 60 rear all the time. I found it to be a good balance between empty ride and towing my 9500lb, 36' TT. It gives a little buffer when temps drop real cold and the low pressure warning light hasn't come on. If it does, it should just be temporary.
I do what the sticker says.....60 in the front and 65 in the rear. Ride is fine and anytime I want to hookup the RV and hit the road, I am ready to go and don't have to deal with airing up / down all the time. If you rotate your tires regularly, wear will be minimal. Also...didn't buy the SD for the ride...bought it to work......
TrailerPark... Just do whats on the placard inside the door. Your TPMS will be happy, and tires will wear well.
To imadentguy... yep, that's about right. Sounds harsh, don't mean to be, should'a bought the diesel. I'm at 16-17MPG unloaded, 11.5 pulling 10k. No gas engine is going to have the torque needed to get the load moving, or the HP to keep it moving. You'll be dropping into lower gears while I'm just watching the boost gauge approach 25 pounds.
I had a gas SuperDuty. The darn thing would scream climbing hills, and when fully loaded semi's are passing up a grade and I climbed the slow vehicle lane at 20 under the limit, there was no way I'd ever have another. The ugly truth, SD gas is for hauling groceries and cruising around town, diesel is for working, and hauling loads.
To acadianbob... Amazon delivered the Hellwig BigWig a few days back, It's not on yet. Do you have a factory bar retrofitted/installed or aftermarket?
Best and correct thing to do is to go to a CAT scale and weigh the truck.
That will give you front and rear axle weights.
Look up the load inflation table for your particular tire.
That table will tell you what pressure to run for those particular weights.
I do this and adjust my rear tire pressure depending if I am towing or not.
I got 72k miles out of my last set of dually rear tires.
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