Eddie Bauer 1990 Bronco Build Thread
First, a quick introduction. 1990 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer Edition, 351w, E4OD, 3.55 Gearing, Bone Stock when acquired.
Now, I'll tell you a little backstory. I bought it for cheap from a fellow who had bought it from the original owner, and then given up on it. Neither power windows or locks worked, and the rear tailgate window was hardwired to a couple jumper wires that hung out of the tailgate. It had just under 200 000 kms on it, and sounded great. The interior was surprisingly clean, with a little minor wear on the drivers seat edge. It had been sitting in a field for a few years, and so was musty and the paint was quite faded, but the body was surprisingly good other than a little rot over the rear wheel wells.
When I looked into the tailgate issue, everything was such a mess that I just decided to make a new tailgate harness. The old wires had been exposed to the elements for so long the whole harness had become green. After getting everything tiddly boo in the back, I went to make the tailgate move, and the motor let the tailgate drop an inch before grumbling and groaning it's last groan. Guess it couldn't handle all the extra power
. I wasn't too concerned, as I was making a big list of stuff to order (as the tradition goes)... The inspection went quite well other than that though, mostly just the basics plus a couple axle C clips for the rear. Even the brakes all looked fairly recent, except the lines..Oh and since it came with a stereo with no faceplate, I chucked a new stereo in and cleaned up the botchy looking wiring from the P.O.
I know that this kit on its own is probably worse than a factory air intake with a scoop, but I knew that this kit had potential with a little fab work..
- Oil change with filter
- New fuel filter
- new fluid in rear diff, and new axle shaft C clips.
- new rear axle seals and rear wheel bearings while its all apart
- new spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, and coil. (compression test amazing, 115-120 PSI all around COLD
- coolant change
- brake fluid flush
- power steering flush
- check timing, but it was spot on factory spec of 10*, so I didn't mess with that for now.
Wow! I had a broken plug, and so was running a cylinder short, and the spark plug wires and cap looked original, the once black boots had turned white with age. After doing everything listed above, the improvement in power was amazing, woke the 351w right up. I started getting an extra 100 kms per tank too! Now I can make it all the way to 400kms before dropping into the red zone. Before, could barely get 300 before the same point. Needless to say I was feeling good.
Sorry, no photos taken for this stuff, so heres one of the bronco doing a wimpy flex shot..
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First, I'll tell you why I did it. I love going out on the logging roads and going on spontaneous camping trips, I want to be able to sleep in the Bronco, I have a 100lb dog who needs lots of space, and I also still wanted to be able to carry 5 people legally in the vehicle.
The factory bench seat system was just not cutting it for me. The amount of space that was lost when it was folded up was ridiculous. I had seen bench systems that when folded down made one large flat surface, and I thought that this would be more ideal to suit my needs. On top of this, I also wanted some extra storage space, and to get my sub and amp out of the way / more secure.
So, since I was not happy with the current layout, I opted to delete the bench seat system in the rear and build my own rear bench seat / bed / storage unit. Time to get crafty! So far, I am very pleased with the progress, and it converts from bed to bench or vice versa in under a minute. It is very sturdy, and when in bed mode it is 6' long by 5'4" wide. More than enough for myself (5'9") and one other, plus my dog. I'll let the photos tell the rest of the story.
After a bit of research and price comparison, I had an alternator for a late 90s Ford Mustang delivered, and quickly realized to my downfall that I had ordered a large case alternator when I should have ordered a small case, which would have bolted right in (feel free to correct me anyone if my understanding on this is incorrect). Since I didn't feel like going to the store as I had already removed my alternator and entire charging system, I decide to get crafty and make it work with a little fabrication and shaving. I ended up using a slightly larger than stock belt (97 inches instead of 93.5). This belt was perfect, as it was almost on the brand new mark on the tensioner, and was just big enough to slip on with the tensioner maxed out. Voltage went straight to 14.7 at idle, and while under load it never even gets close to 13. Looks good in my books.
But, after looking closer at the positive and negative cables, I decided they had to go. Luckily I keep 4g wire in stock and connectors as well. I also threw the load tester on the batter, and it was between the pass and fail range, so I threw a new battery in as well. I paid good money for the alternator, and wanted to make sure my electrical system was as healthy as possible!
After all, healthy voltage means brighter lights, better spark, good sounding music for you audio junkies, and everything just works better at healthy voltages.
All in all it was a fairly simply swap, I spent the most time reading different 3g swap articles, as I never really found one good writeup with all the information I needed and ended up piecing together bits of information from several different articles, and still not feeling too sure about myself at the end of it all. However, it had held up just fine for 2 weeks and 1000kms, so I think I can safely say Mission Success! I may do a writeup on the topic in the near future.
I pulled over as slowly and smoothly as possible and got out to assess the damage. Youch! not a pretty sight. I kicked myself for not making a safety catch for it (I had thought about it from time to time) and vowed to make one in the near future. I went straight to the shop and pulled it in, and set about straightening things out as best I could.
The tailgate seal was separated from the window about 1/2 an inch for most of the length of the window, and the tailgate itself had taken on a bit of a Salvador Dali like appearance. But the worst of it was around the corner. The fact that there was rust running through the rear fender and behind it certainly didn't help, and the whole section behind the wheel well was bent right out of shape.
After an hour or so I had it pretty well back to normal, but there were nasty cracks riddling the original paint and the metal was certainly not straight yet, just close.
All better (kind of...)
You can see where the tailgate separated from the impact too *sigh*. Luckily I do have plans to paint this down the road, and will be installing a safety so this never happens again...
- Note: for those of you that don't know, the factory light system in 90's fords is a bit silly, with all the power for all your lights (headlights included) going through the headlight switch, instead of using a relay. This puts much more load on the switch, and creates a fire hazard, as the switches are not designed to handle that much continuous load, and often melt or catch fire. The way to fix this is install relays to power your lights, diverting the load from your light switch to the relay, and only using the light switch as a trigger instead. One day I will write a more detailed writeup on the subject and include some diagrams.
What a difference it made! The bulbs in there were decent already, so I decided to keep my new bulbs in the glovebox until I needed them. My regular lights are now very noticeably brighter and my high beams are ridiculous! And to top it all off, since there is less load on the rest of my light circuit, now all my other exterior lights are brighter, as well as the lights in the dash. Bonus!
Now I feel almost like I'm in one of those fancy new cars when I drive at nighttime, with my bright lights and cool white reverse lights

This made me feel a little better about the earlier fiasco, at least at the end of the day it was 1 step back and 2 steps forwards...
Here is a comparison between stock bulb and LED bulb for reverse lights. LED is on the left, much whiter light and I find I can see way more backing up at night
Brighter than my old headlights!
Now, the above photo is my regular headlights being powered by the stock headlight system, and below is my regular headlights being powered by the relay upgrade.
The next picture is my high beams. With them, I can now see everything bright and clear.
Keep in mind, these bulbs are a little on the higher side for light output as well, but are still just your plain old halogen 9004s.
But, for now, the progress! While digging around on Rockauto (if you haven't heard of them, check them out! - www.rockauto.com ) I came across rear wheel arches for 17$ apiece! I couldn't believe my eyes! of course, shipping was another $50, but $90 for both rear wheel arches still seems like a screaming deal to me!
When they came, I was actually quite impressed with the quality of the stamp and the thickness of the steel. Definitely got my moneys worth!
I welded them in one weekend, however, I simply hit them with primer after welding, as I plan on repainting the entire truck in the near future once I finish all of the bodywork. (not much left!)
I also scored a whole rear corner panel from the junkyard for $40, I know the trucks are a little different at the top, but I'll be able to use almost the whole piece to fix the gnarly dent from the tire carrier!


