4WD issue 2005 Ford Excursion
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4WD issue 2005 Ford Excursion
I have looked at a lot of threads and cannot find this issue. I was out hunting and my 2005 Ford Excursion Diesel 4x4 would not engage the front wheels, when we got stuck. We could see the front transfer case spinning, but not the wheels. The dash selector said vehicle was in 4X4 high. So we of course manually locked the front hubs and they still would not engage the front wheels. Went home to a buddy with a lift. Same issue, jacked up in 4WD front axle spins, but no engagement front wheels. You can here transfer case motor engage when switch dash 4WD switch. I can check vacuum, but everything I read says manual should work. I am guessing front hubs are bad? 4WD worked last year. If it's the front hubs I am considering Warn with conversion kit or Mile Marker. Anybody have a preference? OEM is $660 for a pair and Warn is $485 with conversion kit.
Thanks
Chip in Richmond Virginia
Thanks
Chip in Richmond Virginia
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Bonita Springs FL
You only have one transfer case and it doesn't spin.
The first thing to check is does the front *driveshaft* spin when the transfer case is in 4wd (leave the hubs unlocked for now). If it does then your transfer case is fine. Then check that each front axle shaft (there are two; one from the differential to each side) spins. Insert a large screwdriver into each u-joint (one at a time) and make sure the power gets sent to the other side. If this is all working then your differential is OK too. Then shut the truck off and manually lock one hub at a time. Spin that tire and make sure the axle spins as well. Re-inserting the large screwdriver should stop the wheel as well. This will test each hub. If the wheel and axle aren't locked together then you have a bad hub. Before I went out and dropped $500 on new hubs I would for sure take my old ones out and try to see what's wrong. They come out easily and are easy to disassemble and rebuild.
The first thing to check is does the front *driveshaft* spin when the transfer case is in 4wd (leave the hubs unlocked for now). If it does then your transfer case is fine. Then check that each front axle shaft (there are two; one from the differential to each side) spins. Insert a large screwdriver into each u-joint (one at a time) and make sure the power gets sent to the other side. If this is all working then your differential is OK too. Then shut the truck off and manually lock one hub at a time. Spin that tire and make sure the axle spins as well. Re-inserting the large screwdriver should stop the wheel as well. This will test each hub. If the wheel and axle aren't locked together then you have a bad hub. Before I went out and dropped $500 on new hubs I would for sure take my old ones out and try to see what's wrong. They come out easily and are easy to disassemble and rebuild.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Stephensville WI
If the vacuum operated front hubs do not lock, then lock them manually. That will get you out of being stuck. This is why the front hubs are marked AUTO and LOCKED. You can lock up the hubs if the truck doesn't.
If you have wheels that cover the front hubs, get a jack and take the wheel off, lock the hub and replace the wheel.
To repair, do a search on ESOF in this forum. You will have a few hours of reading material to comprehend.
If you have wheels that cover the front hubs, get a jack and take the wheel off, lock the hub and replace the wheel.
To repair, do a search on ESOF in this forum. You will have a few hours of reading material to comprehend.
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I understand I only have one transfer case but there are two axle shafts out of it and when in four-wheel-drive they spin. When I switch the dash 4x4 switch, I can hear the transfer case motor engage and the shafts spin. Challenge is even when I lock the hubs manually they don't engage the transfer case axle shafts. So the front tires do not spin when light on dash says on and as well when I manually locked the hubs.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Stephensville WI
Basing your diagnosis on the observation that the front tires don't appear to spin, we can maybe narrow things a bit. The front differential is an open design. A bad hub on one side could cause the issue you describe.
Please manually lock the hubs and perform the tests outlined above.
Please manually lock the hubs and perform the tests outlined above.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 1,521
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From: Washington Coast
And unfortunately when your stuck it’s too late to try and engage 4 wheel drive. Been there and done that multiple times.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
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From: Southern OH
You guys need to read better LOL, he said twice that he locked the hubs manually. They are still not engaging, the factory hubs are not the best, mine failed a long time ago. I am running a set of Mile Marker replacements and they are much better built than the factory ones are. Also I have been stuck in 2wd a bunch of times and had no problem getting 4x4 to engage.
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Thank you. I called Warn and got the right set for factory replacement and put them in yesterday. I am back to having 4WD. I guess I am lucky they lasted 170k miles. Now I can at least guarantee they will work in the future.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: South Jersey
I'd also remove the vacuum lines from the frame down to the steering knuckle. Go to the hardware store and buy two 1/8" stainless plugs for the knuckle and two vacuum caps for the fitting at the brake line bracket on the frame. This removes the problem prone lines from leaking g and causing you to loose your heater vent controls
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
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From: Southern OH
I'd also remove the vacuum lines from the frame down to the steering knuckle. Go to the hardware store and buy two 1/8" stainless plugs for the knuckle and two vacuum caps for the fitting at the brake line bracket on the frame. This removes the problem prone lines from leaking g and causing you to loose your heater vent controls
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 359
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From: ga
hey guys, not to hijack this thread but im having some trouble as well getting my hubs to lock and unlock. ive already spent hundreds rebuildinbg the seals and everything. my problem is I can never get them to unlock. anyways im tired of dealing with this. I love my truck but this automatic stuff sucks. ive been looking to convert mine as well. but I see some kits are like 1800$ plus. they come with axles and stub shafts and the works. can yall tell me why someone would need this over the $500 kits mentioned above if its just a hub issue?
thanks
oh yea and mine is an early 1999 f350
thanks
oh yea and mine is an early 1999 f350
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