You only have one transfer case and it doesn't spin.

The first thing to check is does the front *driveshaft* spin when the transfer case is in 4wd (leave the hubs unlocked for now). If it does then your transfer case is fine. Then check that each front axle shaft (there are two; one from the differential to each side) spins. Insert a large screwdriver into each u-joint (one at a time) and make sure the power gets sent to the other side. If this is all working then your differential is OK too. Then shut the truck off and manually lock one hub at a time. Spin that tire and make sure the axle spins as well. Re-inserting the large screwdriver should stop the wheel as well. This will test each hub. If the wheel and axle aren't locked together then you have a bad hub. Before I went out and dropped $500 on new hubs I would for sure take my old ones out and try to see what's wrong. They come out easily and are easy to disassemble and rebuild.

 

If the vacuum operated front hubs do not lock, then lock them manually. That will get you out of being stuck. This is why the front hubs are marked AUTO and LOCKED. You can lock up the hubs if the truck doesn't.

If you have wheels that cover the front hubs, get a jack and take the wheel off, lock the hub and replace the wheel.

To repair, do a search on ESOF in this forum. You will have a few hours of reading material to comprehend.

 

 

The things coming out of the transfer case that deliver power to the axles are called driveshafts.

You're going to have to go through the troubleshooting steps I listed above though.

 

Basing your diagnosis on the observation that the front tires don't appear to spin, we can maybe narrow things a bit. The front differential is an open design. A bad hub on one side could cause the issue you describe.

Please manually lock the hubs and perform the tests outlined above.

 

 

You guys need to read better LOL, he said twice that he locked the hubs manually. They are still not engaging, the factory hubs are not the best, mine failed a long time ago. I am running a set of Mile Marker replacements and they are much better built than the factory ones are. Also I have been stuck in 2wd a bunch of times and had no problem getting 4x4 to engage.

 

 

I'd also remove the vacuum lines from the frame down to the steering knuckle. Go to the hardware store and buy two 1/8" stainless plugs for the knuckle and two vacuum caps for the fitting at the brake line bracket on the frame. This removes the problem prone lines from leaking g and causing you to loose your heater vent controls

 

You can do that, or just unplug the vacuum solenoid that controls the hubs, so no vacuum ever gets sent to the hubs.

 

hey guys, not to hijack this thread but im having some trouble as well getting my hubs to lock and unlock. ive already spent hundreds rebuildinbg the seals and everything. my problem is I can never get them to unlock. anyways im tired of dealing with this. I love my truck but this automatic stuff sucks. ive been looking to convert mine as well. but I see some kits are like 1800$ plus. they come with axles and stub shafts and the works. can yall tell me why someone would need this over the $500 kits mentioned above if its just a hub issue?

thanks

oh yea and mine is an early 1999 f350

 

If its a hub issue, then replace the hubs. You don't need any crazy fancy kit, UNLESS your issue isn't the hubs to begin with.

 

You don't need the conversion kit, just a good set of Warn or MileMarker hubs. You can even unplug the vacuum solenoid for the hubs and just use your auto hubs as manual ones