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Changed out my hitch receiver to a new Curt XD. The slots where safety chains connect are not allowing the safety chain snap hooks to hook up easily. The metal is thicker and distance around where snap hook needs to connect is larger. The hooks have to be fooled with and twisted to get them to snap on.
Solutions:
#1: purchase a larger snap hook (if it will fit my chain)......Update...not available as my chain is 3/8" and snap hooks are attached to chain size
#2: purchase a 3/4" shackle and connect to hitch; then attach my snap hooks to shackles
#3 Purchase Quick links (type that use a bottle type screw down) and attach these to hitch. Then trailer safety chain snap hooks can be attached to these links
My other issue is the chains are on the short side. They are attached by a rod that welded to frame (links run through rod).
Are there extending chain links that are strong enough to use in this application?
I was also thinking that solution #2 above may add a couple inches to the length seeing as snap hook does not connect directly to hitch.
The 2017+ Superduty crowd had this problem. The solutions were pretty much the list you posted. I got lucky and my 3" receiver fits the safety chains on all my trailers. If it was me, I would be replacing the hook itself. I don't like things hanging around and making noise. Plan B for me was the hammer locks.
Whatever you go with has to have a high enough working load limit to handle the tongue weight plus a reasonable fudge factor. If the chains have to be used then it's going to be a catastrophic situation and there's going to be a buttload of energy transferred to the chains.
Thanks for the replies. Hammerlocks appear to be the ticket for this particular issue.
I went outside and messed with the chain and snap hooks again.
It appears that my snap hooks work fine and are easy to hook up...............when there is NO hitch lock obtruding through the hitch hole!
Sine my hitch lock is not installed, there are no obstructions and snap hooks can be hooked up without too much fuss.
When my Anderson hitch lock is used, it sticks out at least an 1" on each side and makes it difficult for snap hooks to attach.
So.....I'll see if using a standard-non-locking hitch pin allows for easier hook up. Just hate to lose the ability to keep hitch locked.
My go ahead and use the Hammerlocks anyways....as my chains are a little short
Do this fit onto hitch and then your snap hooks are able to attach to shackle?
My snap hooks are 5/16" high test like these.....just wondering if there's still room after shackles are attached to hitch?
If you plan to leave those on your hitch then consider putting some anti-seize on the threads and then thread a wire into the hole on the handle and then around the ring to ensure that the bolt can't work it's way out. Like in the picture below. Personally, I would leave them under the backseat until they were needed.
Do this fit onto hitch and then your snap hooks are able to attach to shackle?
My snap hooks are 5/16" high test like these.....just wondering if there's still room after shackles are attached to hitch?
For what it's worth, my snap hooks are 3/8" and they work fine on my 3" receiver hitch. I turn the snap hooks sideways with the opening facing up, push them up into the area behind the rear hole and then rotate the snap hooks to secure them. Since your hitch is different that trick probably won't work.
Good point Jim on the seizing wire and anti-seize. I used seizing wire on all of my boat anchors. I typically used monel as most of my sailing was done in salt water.
I'm thinking of leaving them on, as they will work better for my boat snap hooks as well. I take boat out about 1-2 per month
wondering if it matters which end of shackle (rounded or pin) is what rubs on hitch when all is hooked up?
Ideally, you would put the chain link on the pin and pack the link to the center of the pin with correctly sized SS washers:
Practically, IMO we're talking about shackles that are arguably rated for either more than the chain itself, or more than the attachment method to the trailer.... what's going to be the first part that breaks if the trailer comes off the ball? If the chains are held to the trailer with a Grade 5 bolt or a welded link, it's not going to be the shackles breaking.
Iwhat's going to be the first part that breaks if the trailer comes off the ball?
Worst case? Probably my bladder as I **** myself.
I was in a vehicle with my dad when a utility trailer came off the hitch and went off the side of the road. It was quite a graceful thing to see. It didn't wreck, roll over or hit anything. I should have bought a lottery ticket that day.
Concur on the pucker factor. But ....was it not chained on? That would rank up there with blowouts (truck or trailer) and "why did you leave me loose wheel" situations.
I saw an Expedition lose a wheel coming out of the I-70 tunnels westbound. The guy made it to the shoulder and set it down without flipping.... the wheel rolled across traffic and tracked down the inside wall for at least a mile. It was still rolling when I went past it.
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That would rank up there with blowouts (truck or trailer) and "why did you leave me loose wheel" situations.